I finished up the car the other day, and burned a base Hondata tune.

Specs on the tune:

P28 ECU file
680cc injectors
1950cc displacement
Basic Boost tables

Stock everything else.

I was able to start the car, but it wants to die right away. If I get on the throtal and keep it reved up it will eventually idle, but it sounds really rough (kind of a pulsing sound). Every time I step on the throtal it revs kinda rough and hesitates. It will also want to die when I let off the throtal.

I've burned about 7 different roms to try and see if they would make any difference, and so far it hasn't helped.

I'm getting a check engine light, but I can't seem to get the ECU to blink what code it is. I tried hooking up my lap top, but for some odd reason the Hondalogger software keeps freezing my computer.

EDIT: I just noticed too that the red light on the Hondata box is blinking.

I'm so pissed.


Modified by Bryson at 9:42 PM 9/12/2004

 

Dude that sucks...

Is this a fresh motor?

If not, burn one BIN about 10-15% richer in the idle areas and one 10-15% leaner. See if either helps the problem to know which way to move the maps.

Sometimes with bigger injectors you have to increase the pulsewidths as larger injectors take more time to open.

Disregard everything I said if you already have a wideband though to know if you are running too rich or lean.

 

I'm running a wideband (innovate) but the air/fuel ratio is all over the ******* place.

One time I would look and its a 13:1, and another its 25:1...?

I am so ******* clueless its not even funny.

 

If your getting a cel with no codes, then something is definatly amiss with your ecu/hondata.

 

when it does blink, that means code 0, your ecu or chip is messed up, Check your socketing job, check the hondata box for errors, or disconnected, and make sure your chip is in correctly. It isn't a problem with yoru car, it is a problem with your ecu/honda, the ecu is in limp mode and dumping a TONNN of fuel.

 

Huh...

Well I'm 99% sure the chip is in correctly (the arrow pointing to the left/drivers side)

The ECU has been socketed by Hondata, and was working fine previously.

I'm wondering if I'm burning the Chip properly....? I'm using a Moates burner and using the flashburn program. I place the chip so that the arrow is facing the lock latch, and place it all the way towards the back of the burner (thats how I was told to do it). I copy the hondata file into the flash burn program, and program the chip. It says it's burned it successfully.

 

wild one here.... but you know for sure the resistor box is wired up right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DIRep972 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wild one here.... but you know for sure the resistor box is wired up right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup. I havn't touched it since the swap, and it worked fine before.

 

disable the electrical load detector, then reburn a new basemap and use the built in dead time correction option for the larger injectors. It should idle, unless your fuel pressure is way off or something else is wrong.

The led on the hondata should be solid red, if its blinking then that means theres a problem with the ecu or chip. make sure the arrow on the chip is facing the harness connector side of the ecu when you put it in. also try verifying the data on the chip after you burn it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TitanDarin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">disable the electrical load detector, then reburn a new basemap and use the built in dead time correction option for the larger injectors. It should idle, unless your fuel pressure is way off or something else is wrong.

The led on the hondata should be solid red, if its blinking then that means theres a problem with the ecu or chip. make sure the arrow on the chip is facing the harness connector side of the ecu when you put it in. also try verifying the data on the chip after you burn it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok...

The injector mulitplier is at .38, and the fuel pressure is 40psi at atmosphere.

The light is blinking, and I had the chip installed just like you said. I don't see how it could be the ECU if it was working before. Its not somehow possible to fry the ECU by putting in and taking out the chip is it?

I burned a Rom, and then had the FlashBurn program read the chip...I opened the file with Hondata and it showed the same thing as the origional.

 

Is the o2 feedback turned off?

 

Where did you get the map from? I had some problems when I was using one of the older stage 2/3/4 maps w/ my s200 system. But then if you are resaving the files in romeditor, they should convert.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is the o2 feedback turned off?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you talking about closed loop? I had it turned on.

I was basically taking the file that you burned for me (worked great BTW ) and changing it for the larger injectors and adding the boost tables.

If it would be possible, could you perhaps burn me another chip only this time for 680cc injectors and boost tables? I just want to see if it is infact the chip or something else.

 

if the hondata box is flashing you are running in safe mod, which is calibrated for 240 injectors, so you are making it run pig rich. if you ecu has worked before, then you are not burning the rom correctly.

have you recently upgrade from an old stage 4 to the s200 system? you might have to cut jumper J12, if you have always had the s200 system, then it has to be the chip.

how are you burning the chip, you can't burn from within the romeditor, you have to use the software provided by the burner maker.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is the o2 feedback turned off?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's supposed to be turned off? Hmmm..that might explain my problem. It bogs intermittenly. Idle's good, red light is solid. Granted, it's a base map, but most of the time it just bogs and can barely get out of it's own way!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by seen4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if the hondata box is flashing you are running in safe mod, which is calibrated for 240 injectors, so you are making it run pig rich. if you ecu has worked before, then you are not burning the rom correctly.

have you recently upgrade from an old stage 4 to the s200 system? you might have to cut jumper J12, if you have always had the s200 system, then it has to be the chip.

how are you burning the chip, you can't burn from within the romeditor, you have to use the software provided by the burner maker.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bryson,
Seen has pretty much said everything here. If the box is blinking and the CEL is solid, then it isn't reading the ROM, period. It is running off the backup processor so it is running pig rich as stated.

Yes, cut the J12 jumper for sure for the S200 if you have it.

Also, do you have the software in front of you? Are you burning the chips yoruself? Will you be tuning yourself?

I have another thought, it could be that the chip was burned with version 2.5 and not version 3. This will cause the exact symptoms as well.

Let me also state what I ALWAYS disable on Hondata
1) Knock Sensor
2) ELD
3) O2 Heater

Just my preference.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Finest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It's supposed to be turned off? Hmmm..that might explain my problem. It bogs intermittenly. Idle's good, red light is solid. Granted, it's a base map, but most of the time it just bogs and can barely get out of it's own way! </TD></TR></TABLE>

If you are tuning the car, yes, this needs to be turned off.
Yours sounds like the tune is crap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by toolowsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when it does blink, that means code 0, your ecu or chip is messed up, Check your socketing job, check the hondata box for errors, or disconnected, and make sure your chip is in correctly. It isn't a problem with yoru car, it is a problem with your ecu/honda, the ecu is in limp mode and dumping a TONNN of fuel.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had this same problem and in the end one of the leads on the socket was broken. Replaced it and the light went away and the car ran great. trust him ^

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ladysman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Bryson,
Seen has pretty much said everything here. If the box is blinking and the CEL is solid, then it isn't reading the ROM, period. It is running off the backup processor so it is running pig rich as stated.

Yes, cut the J12 jumper for sure for the S200 if you have it.

Also, do you have the software in front of you? Are you burning the chips yoruself? Will you be tuning yourself?

I have another thought, it could be that the chip was burned with version 2.5 and not version 3. This will cause the exact symptoms as well.

Let me also state what I ALWAYS disable on Hondata
1) Knock Sensor
2) ELD
3) O2 Heater

Just my preference.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I have the software in front of me, and am burning my own chips. I'm using the Moates burner instead of the Hondata one (mainly because it was 85 bucks), but I would assume it would have worked the same since its the same type of bin files. Others have said its worked for them perfectly.

Tell me more about that J12 jumper? I havn't heard of this before (I'm using the S200).

The software I have is the 3.5 version.

 

Welp...

I got the car to run WOOHOO!!!

But, it still runs really rough. I did away with the cel, and the Hondata box just has a solid red light.

Would anyone be able to burn me a base tune, and send it to me thru email perhaps maybe?

 

What did you have to do to get it to work?

 

shoot me an email to seanlysinger@hotmail.com and I'll reply with a basemap. as always, its just a map to get the car running and take it to a tuner.

please just tell me the info I need, inj, fuel pressure, old motor size to new size, etc etc.

3 bar or stock map sensor, plus if you want to run a o2 sensor or not. What year car it is going in, what generation motor, IE obd1, obd0, etc.

edit: http://www.hondata.com/s200.html

look at bottom of page, it shows jumper j12. if you sent the ecu to hondata, or its a hondata purchased ecu, then they normally cut the jumper while in house for socketing. I had an old stage 4, then upgraded to s200 and had to cut the jumper myself since the ecu didn't want to see the s200. But if your car is running now, then it must have the jumper cut, as the blue box wouldn't connect without so.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bryson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah, I have the software in front of me, and am burning my own chips. I'm using the Moates burner instead of the Hondata one (mainly because it was 85 bucks), but I would assume it would have worked the same since its the same type of bin files. Others have said its worked for them perfectly.

Tell me more about that J12 jumper? I havn't heard of this before (I'm using the S200).

The software I have is the 3.5 version. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The burner shouldn't be an issue. I HIGHLY suggest you get the romulator if you are doing any tuning yourself. You will save yourself a TON of time. Well worth the purchase. Personally, I would have got the romulator and had someone (like me) burn the chip for you when you are done. If you get it and use it, you will never go back to burning chips unless it is the final tune. You will want to kiss me for it.

Make sure you have the 3.5.5 version of the software. 600mbar glitch was fixed on this version along with other issues.

There are connection issues when the J12 jumper isn't cut. See here.
http://www.hondata.com/s200.html

If it runs rough, what is the A/F?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DIRep972 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What did you have to do to get it to work?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I just burned a new P28 rom, and Reset the ECU. No more Cel.

Another possible problem I would have to mention might be the injectors. My freind obtained them used, and he wasn't sure if they were 680cc. I just dropped them in to see if we could get them to work, since we have a race this Sunday.

I went ahead and bought a set of 880s from Camp, and got next day air just to rule out this possibility.

The engine is running about 22-23/1 @ idle... , so I'm thinking one or more of the injectors is bad. I burned another rom with a .5 injector multiplier, and it just stayed at 22-23.

I am using the 3.5.5 software, and I'm pretty sure that jumper has been cut since I bought the ECU from Hondata.

 

what wideband are you running? how is it hooked up? what was the a/f when the blue box wasn't working correctly?

making that big of an multiplier change should have produced soem results.