For you guys with the 62404 cams, how does your car run at idle fuel wise? Is it really rich? If you guys happene to have an S-AFC, what does you Vacuum look like at idle?

Mine is at -280mmHg at idle which is making the ECU dump a **** load of fuel and making the car run really rich, now I dont know if its because of the cams or if I have a vacuum leak.

 

 

i dont think there is anyway you can avoid the rich at idle with the 404 cams. unless you de-tune the cams by reducing the overlap OR cutting the fuel on the S-AFC at idle to the point where's it about to stall.........

 

It's the cams. It has alot of overlap. The only way is to reduce the overlap, but that will rob the power, thus defeats the purpose of building a NA car.

 

HX, try to reset idle at 1200 rpm or get a vacuum canister.

Just like tuning a 350 checvy with a 300 degree duration cam.

It don't idle for ****!

 

I am looking to buy myself some cams for christmas and have decided on 403 or 404's. My engine is stock internally. Would I be able to use the 404's on stock internals w/o a P&P? Or would my car run like crap. I was planning on an Apexi S-AFC, Crower 403's or 404's, Crower titanium valve spring retainers, and possibly Crower dual valve springs. What do you guys think? Is this a good place to start? Do I need the springs? or will the stock ones be fine? I'm not planning on revving over 8000 RPM's for a while. Which cams would you suggest? It's my daily driven race car... if that helps you understand my driving habits. Also, would their be any advantage to me getting new valves right now, or should I wait. I'm planning on blowing the engine with about 12 PSI or boost (via T3/T4) by Jan 2003. Thanks!
-Erik

PS- What are the chances of me installing the cams myself? Are cam gears needed to get the car running good and strong, or will they be fine at the stock cam timing?

 

if ur gonna boost ur engine.... save your money and dont get the cams... if u want minor power.. and arent planning on revving over 8000 then just get a set of ITR cams.. just make sure u reset the vtec point and get rid of the dual stage intake manifold

 

i hate to be a dick but read a little closer to the post. these are non vtec cams

 

must have been da weed man

 

up up

 

whew! oooold post! lol

I bought the 404's but never got to install them since I blew my B18b and decided to go all out on my next engine, so....

I'm buying a beater and I plan on putting the cams in it, with a B18a/b swap, with the safc and some tuning. At idle, you can lower your fuel so that it almost stalls at idle. It sounds pretty damn mean to hear a 4 banger camming, lol. Your best bet is to get your a/f @ idle stoich to just slightly lean. If you have a cat on your car and it's been running rich, there is a good chance you are clogging up your cat. Might be a good idea to replace it with a carsound when you get your car tuned to help get rid of some restriction. good luck
-Erik

 

Would I be okay running the 404's on my stock internals (w/o any headwork) with the crower valvetrain upgrade?

 

Would it be a good idea for me to run Crower 62403 with mostly stock setting, I/E, SAFC and then later turbo it...?

 

to run the 403 or 404 especially, you will NEED new dual or triple valve springs and titanium retainers. on the 404's I would HIGHLY suggest a stage 2 P&P as well as a 3 angle valve job... to get the most of them that is.

 

sorry~ but what is P&P??

 

Port & Polish, stage 2 would be my suggestion with the 3 angle valve job... or better of course.

 

P&P= port and polish

he means to fully maximize the potential of those cams you should have the cylinder head ported and polished.

on a side note. i ran the 403's with the stock valve springs and retainers for a few months before i decided to get the dual valve springs. the ti-retainers are optional but a good idea if you plan to use the 404's or bigger cams.

 

 

i'm going to be running the 404s with springs and retainers, but without headwork

 

I've learned that if your going with these cams or even more aggressive ones you MUST rebuild the engine as a whole.. these cams aren't simply a bolt on 10hp... you need to build up the rest of the block 2, this aint no exhaust/header... It's more like a, if you have a nice built N/A internal work, these cams would be good for you, type deal

 

I've got them. A P&P springs & retainers with the rest will do you well. I've got a stock bottom end just like member Halo had (who made 164whp).


[Modified by teg92, 11:50 AM 6/13/2002]

 

you guys notice the date of this post??

12/7/2001

hx_guy has since converted to vtec then sold his engine and quit the import scene

 

hahha yeah.... i made it appear once again
did it twice already including this time