Ok, give you a few facts of what I am doing and what I currently have.

car: 90' civic STD HB
tranny: 5spd from 89' 4dr dx
block: D15B1
Head: D16z6 P&P w/ 3 angle valve job
IM: Y8 w/ B16 TB
Exhaust Mani: stock D15B1 till I can find a header *IF* that mani will work with the D16z6 head
complete DPFI to MPFI conversion
Complete rebuild on motor:I plan on redoing everything.

Ok, here are my questions:

1. I have an A6 dizzy, will this dizzy work with my head?

2. I forget the # on the ECU, but I have an obd0 B16 ecu out of a jdm crx sir.........will this work to operate VTEC safely and not allow me to overturn, overdue my motor?

3. IF I wanted to upgrade the pistons, what would be a good OEM piston upgrade I could use that would net me more power but still allow me to reliably daily drive on 89 octane or lower per say?

4. Will stock D16z water pump and timing belt work or go with stock D15b wp and tb?

5. Using the Y8 mani and B16 TB, what is the easiest sensor to use for my IACV?

6. Is it possible this setup even with stock d15b pistons could net me 125-130hp?


I did alot of reading about this in the past two days, I completely understand the "how-to's" of a mini-me but there seemed to be some contradicting information on some questions I had. Thanks for ANY information you guys can give me!

John

 

Is the B1 the SAME as the B2?
Or is a B1 like the B6 and only has 8 valves?

1. - yes, but only one bolt will align correctly. You either need custom brackets or you have to modify the ear on the distributor.

2. Ecu should work as long as you have all the senors it requires and everything is wired correctly.

3. no idea

4. no idea

5. The one that comes with the Y8 manifold. Get the manifold from a manual tranny car - auto is different and has the valve built into the TB.

6. The stock D15B2 engine has slightly more compression than the A6. It should give you some extra horses over a stock A6 mini-me, but I don't know if that's going to hit you numbers.

 

2. Dont do it that way, a ghetto RPM switch is smarter and safer then that but this entier swap is almost pointless unless you do it the right way and convert to OBD 1.
From what i hear D16A1 pistons(first gen teg) are what people use to up the comp a D motors.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4drEF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is the B1 the SAME as the B2?
Or is a B1 like the B6 and only has 8 valves?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

The B1 is the stock motor out of my 90' std hatch. It is the same as the B2 in regards that it has 16V's. there are "probobally" other differences btw it and the B2 but I am not sure. It definately is not the B6, I have a B6 in my car now! great for gas mileage, bad for GO!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kid-honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2. Dont do it that way, a ghetto RPM switch is smarter and safer then that but this entier swap is almost pointless unless you do it the right way and convert to OBD 1.
From what i hear D16A1 pistons(first gen teg) are what people use to up the comp a D motors.</TD></TR></TABLE>

your kidding right...rpm switch better then using a pr3 ecu....i had the rpm switch and hated it, had a pr3 laying around wired it up worked fine but i got ks code cause well i dont have one but still runs fine.....yes the p29 pistons and pm7 which are the same from the dohc zc and d16a1 will bump the compression up.

 

Both ways are dumb, just the rpm switch is a little smarter for the idiot who does this swap incorectly so he wont be able to rev to 8200.

 

if you want to run it on 89 gas, don't do anything to your pistons... you'll be around 10.1:1 ish with the stockers, with the a1 pistons you'll be up over 12:1 so atleast 93 is a must...

compression calculator http://www.knology.net/~jediklc/D.htm

 

with a d15b2 you will need an adjustable cam gear.. the timing is half a tooth off otherwise

 

dude an rpm activated switch is way worse than a pr3. when vtec engages it changes the fuel and timming curves to match the vtec lobe. yes you can run it either way but id take the time to do it right go obd 1 and put a p28 in it and the zc/a1 pistons are great for high comp street d's they will put you right at 12.1 in stock block/ head when you use a z6 head. if you go with the y8 it gets closer to 12.5 -13. you can still run it on pump gas but i wouldnt go below 91 octane.