slipping clutch question

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Old Sep 6, 2004 | 11:44 PM
  #1  
chrisb's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 525
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From: Buford, GA
Default slipping clutch question

So I bought an 88 CRX Si a while back. Lately the clutch has been slipping more and more. Not knowing the service history of the car I figured the clutch was fried and pulled the tranny. Just got that tranny out. Flywheel, clutch, PP and release bearing look great. WTF? What else could it be? I have never had to adjust my clutch on my old 90 Prelude or 96 GSR. Could it just have needed adjusting? Aren't they self adjusting? Thanks for any help. Wish I had never pulled the damn thing.

Chris
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Old Sep 7, 2004 | 12:55 AM
  #2  
crown14's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 65
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From: raleigh/durham, nc, usa
Default Re: slipping clutch question (chrisb)

they are not self adjusting but I think if it was out of adjustment you would have had other complaints

I replaced my clutch, pressure plate and release bearing about 3 months ago and I knew I should have had the flywheel turned, but I didnt due to time constraints. Since day one with the new clutch it slipped a little when I drove the **** out of it but normally was okay...

Last week I got in, pressed the clutch and something went POP! I think it was the cable, so I replaced it and after some tedious adjusting I got it to work okay, but my slipping was way worse, and got progressively worse. After about an hour of actual driving time over 2 days the clutch began slipping to the point that the car would no longer move under its own power in gear with the clutch out.

I realize everything looks good right now, but my suggestion to you is get the flywheel turned (~$50), find a good replacment clutch set (my exedy? was ~$120), replace the cable (~$35) and eliminate all the variables since you already have the labor halfway done. In the long run it will be well worth the ~$200-220 you spend.

Dont forget to replace the pilot bearing (comes in most clutch sets) and replace the rear main seal before putting the flywheel back on. Also I would suggest using GM synchromesh fluid in the transmission once you get it back together. Auto Zone sells a pennzoil equivalent- thats what I will be trying this time... 10-w30 or whatever it called for in the manual just didnt feel right to me.
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