Well i need a new tob.. and my clutch is really old..
so i'm probly going to get a lowmile exedy stage I off someone,
then have the flywheel lightened up.

SO i'm wondering, how much would a machineshop charge to do this?
does anyone have any recommendations of a good place in the bay area to have it done?

I'm probably going to go down to 12lbs.. MAYBE 11lbs(12 should be safe.. but alil extra would be nice)

Thanks alot!

P.S. one more question, I know the cx/vx flywheels are lighter than the usual dseries flywheel, but by howmuch? Anyone know the weight of each.

this is all for my d15b vtec.
thanks again!

 

bump YO

 

you're better off buying a lightened flywheel. Attempting to lighten a stock flywheel is not a good idea or safe.

 

I actually heard the opposite. I heard lightening a stock flywheel is better then buying a newer one because the material is stronger then the lighten flywheels.

I perfer staying with a stock one just to be on the safe side for my car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00Red_SiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you're better off buying a lightened flywheel. Attempting to lighten a stock flywheel is not a good idea or safe.</TD></TR></TABLE>

aaahemm, ANNYWAYS,
could someone answer my question,
I already researched this

its safe as long as you dont lighten it too much(like to 7 lbs or something)
its been established that 11-13lbs is a safe range.

SO back to my original post.

 

No that's not quite right. Try thinking of your flywheel like a brake rotor...the more you machine them, the thinner they get and are more prone to warpage because they can't tolerate the heat as well. A lightened flywheel is designed to be at least as strong as the stock piece or more but engineered to be lighter.

 

thats why you dont take off too much material,
as I said

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats why you dont take off too much material,
as I said</TD></TR></TABLE>

You're gonna have to remove a lot of material to reduce the flywheel a few pounds and no matter how you do that on a stock flywheel, it's gonna weaken it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00Red_SiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You're gonna have to remove a lot of material to reduce the flywheel a few pounds and no matter how you do that on a stock flywheel, it's gonna weaken it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

appreciate the bumps but i'm looking for an answer to my question.
i've already researched this.
thanks for the concern though.

 

I just happen to see this link at the bottom of this page, lol...

http://www.alamomotorsports.co...oogle

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TallAssFilipino &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just happen to see this link at the bottom of this page, lol...

http://www.alamomotorsports.co...oogle</TD></TR></TABLE>
259 each.. no thanks

 

I suggest you just buy the lightened aftermarket fidanza flywheel man. You see the more you make that stock flywheel thinner just to reduce weight, the more clearance its leaving for the clutch disc to travel. At least with the aftermarket fidanza one, you can have a much more stronger quality compare to a thinned OEM one plus you still get to keep the same flywheel thickness as before. I doubt you'll shave a lot of punds to make the OEM flywheel thin enough to be safe. But whatever floats your boat man, if they charge you alot, might as well get the aftermarket

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrokeAssPinoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I suggest you just buy the lightened aftermarket fidanza flywheel man. You see the more you make that stock flywheel thinner just to reduce weight, the more clearance its leaving for the clutch disc to travel. At least with the aftermarket fidanza one, you can have a much more stronger quality compare to a thinned OEM one plus you still get to keep the same flywheel thickness as before. I doubt you'll shave a lot of punds to make the OEM flywheel thin enough to be safe. But whatever floats your boat man, if they charge you alot, might as well get the aftermarket</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats why I would like an answer to my question...
how much would a machine shop charge?
this thread has 12 replies already and still no answer(ok some were my replies but still).

what effect does having more distance for the clutch to move have?

i've read about many people who have actually done this, and have had no problems with years of hard use.

........ sigh..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrokeAssPinoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I suggest you just buy the lightened aftermarket fidanza flywheel man. You see the more you make that stock flywheel thinner just to reduce weight, the more clearance its leaving for the clutch disc to travel. At least with the aftermarket fidanza one, you can have a much more stronger quality compare to a thinned OEM one plus you still get to keep the same flywheel thickness as before. I doubt you'll shave a lot of punds to make the OEM flywheel thin enough to be safe. But whatever floats your boat man, if they charge you alot, might as well get the aftermarket</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, the clutch surface is not changed when the flywheel is lightened. You remove the material from the backside. You also retain strength because you remove mass from the flywheel, therefore there is less inertial mass to cause fatigue. I have a lightened stock flywheel, and I did it myself. It is Chromoly steel, so they are strong, unlike the reference that was made to the brake rotors above. At 12.5# there is about a .095" shoulder for the ring gear to seat against. Plenty strong in my opinion. I'm also running it on a D15B that is turboed, and it's lasted over 7000 miles with no issues.

I'm not sure about the CX/VX, but the last '91 HF flywheel I pulled was just under 14#, and it is fully compatible with your D15B and Hydro trans.

 

thanks jim,
well I guess I just need to call around to find prices really.

btw you didnt balance yours at all??

 

a buddy of mine had his 1990 VW corrado Flywheel Shaved. South bend clutch a very reputable dealer and machine shop did this for him. Shaved off 3.5lbs off his fly wheel charged him 215 without tax. that included the cost of having it balanced.

 

It's been a while since I had a fly wheel lightened... But around $70-100 depending on the machine shop and then another $40-60 having it balanced. Here a pic of my flywheel that came off my d15b1 and was reused for my d16z6 and is currently residing in the garage...lol.

The stock I weighed from a 93 dx is around 16 lbs.
The lightened one is 12.5-13 lbs.





But having it too much material taken off can be costly/dangerous/even deadly...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks jim,
well I guess I just need to call around to find prices really.

btw you didnt balance yours at all??
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, I had mine balanced. You will need a crank that has been "zeroed" in order for most machine shops to balance it.

 

Cost me $50 to have 6lbs taken off mine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wilsel &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cost me $50 to have 6lbs taken off mine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

wow thats alot cheaper than it cost other ppl,
did that include balancing?

Jim,
whats zeroed mean?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Jim,
whats zeroed mean?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Basically it is a crank that has been balanced properly. Then you balance the flywheel to the crank, then the pressure plate to the flywheel.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jim Truett &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Basically it is a crank that has been balanced properly. Then you balance the flywheel to the crank, then the pressure plate to the flywheel. </TD></TR></TABLE>

so I need to take my motor in!?

 

Well when I got my lightened flywheel (92 si lightened on a brake lathe) balanced i didnt get the whole reciprocating assembly balanced. Just the flywheel itself. Ive had no problems yet after 30k...dragging the car and autocrossing. The flywheel weighs 11.85 lbs also.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

wow thats alot cheaper than it cost other ppl,
did that include balancing?

Jim,
whats zeroed mean?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah with balancing. I paid a shop to do the clutch at the same time, so it had to be resurfaced anyway.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

so I need to take my motor in!?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can get another crank from a junkyard. I had a spare that I used until I recently built a D16A6 for my girlfriend.