Im trying to punch out the shift linkage pin out. Is there a secret on how to remove that? Ive been using a small punch and a hammer. Been beating on it for quite some time. Hit my fingers a few times (ouch).

Do I just keeping on beating on it. It looks like im flaring out the edge.

 

Depending on how big the head of the punch is, you have to hit on the actual spring pin not in the middle. Otherwise it'll do like you said and flare open. You need to hit all around on the pin (I'm not too good at describing, hope you understand). It takes a while, use some liquid wrench to help it come out. If you really get pissed off, leave and go do something else for a bit and then come back. Otherwise you'll lose your concentration and wack your finger good, like I did.

There really isn't a secret that I know of unfortunately, sorry. But it is doable, no doubt about that.

Good luck.

 

Go to sears, buy a pin punch.

Serious. They only have SAE, but you'll live, if you can find metric, I believe it's 7mm. Oh yeah, we call it the "bitch pin" around these parts, for reasons, I believe you've recently been acquainted with.

-PHiZ

 

An air hammer and a punch set work great. With those,You can get them out in about 30 seconds. I used to use a hammer and punch,but theres not really enough room under there unless you have a lift...
Make sure you have the right diameter punch so you hit the pin itself and not fall through the center of it.
Good luck and watch those fingers!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PHiZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">we call it the "bitch pin" around these parts, for reasons, I believe you've recently been acquainted with.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wish honda would have called it a bitch pin, so at least when starting the work, we would know, in advance, what to expect.

 

$19.99 at Sears - I think I used a 8mm rolled punch.

The knub on the end keeps the punch from walking. I can never get enough swing room to knock the pin out while I'm under the car (it takes quite a bit of beating), so I always end up having to set it up on planks, step on the tranny, and wail on the pin w/ my sledgehammer.

 

Hey, thanks for the pics, I could only find SAE, but I made it work.

My other trick is to disconnect the stabilizer bar part of the linkage, then you can rotate the shifter rod. I put together all of my 1/2 extensions, with a swivel at the end, and taped the punh into a socket. You have to manuever around the rear tranny mount, but it enables you to swing DOWN onto the pin.

-PHiZ

 

Heh, you guys are getting too high-tech. Just get a long 12mm bolt with a tapered end on it.... hit the pin out with that. If you have nuts & bolts laying around, I'm sure you'll have a long 12mm bolt. Perfect diameter to fit through the hole when you punch the pin out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">$19.99 at Sears - I think I used a 8mm rolled punch.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I gotta get me that. It could prove to be very useful.

 

i just leave the sucka in makes my swaps easier....if you have another one on it already

 

those pins are in the PITA!... lol...

 

Got that bitch out with this



Took me less than 5 seconds to push that sucker out.

Here are a few pics of the removal

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by migs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"></TD></TR></TABLE>

DAMN!
i hope you weren't working under the car w/o jackstands!

 

I was, Im okay.

 

i used a 1/4 punch and a 3lbs sledge and a really tired right arm

 

i drill out teh rivits on the shift linkage and replaced it with a bolt so no-one ever has to **** with the bitch pin again...

i do this to all the cars i work on...

it is kind

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tinkerbell &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i drill out teh rivits on the shift linkage and replaced it with a bolt so no-one ever has to **** with the bitch pin again...

i do this to all the cars i work on...

it is kind </TD></TR></TABLE>

The bitch pin is there to prevent the shifter from having a sloppy feel, but I understand that you're not talking about hte bitch pin, but about the rivets further up on the collar. Still, I'd be .

-PHiZ

 

yeah, so i put the bitch pin back in and use a bolt at the flexible connection.

i hope that this is clear.

 

adding my $.02...

if you dont have access to an air hammer and if have one of those spare long 12mm A/C compressor mounting bolts laying around, it works great as a punch for shift linkage pin removal along with a mini-sledge hammer..

 

Doing a swap in a 93 CX for a customer last week,and having borrowed out the proper rollpin punch to a friend, I just cut the d series linkage off since it was off to the dumpster anyways. ;P

However,

Before I got around to buying the right set of punches from my Mac guy, I used to use a 4.5 or 5mm (i forget) metric deepwell socket on a small extension and that worked out decently as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Burke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i used a 1/4 punch and a 3lbs sledge and a really tired right arm </TD></TR></TABLE>

{insert tired right arm joke}

 

you can just use a AC compressor bolt.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jazzman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

{insert tired right arm joke} </TD></TR></TABLE>

saw that comin

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by migs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was, Im okay.</TD></TR></TABLE>

out of curiosity... what kinda (brand/model) are those jacks?
i need a good pair of low-profile ones...

 

Bluepoint/Snapon