since i put on the Skunk2 mani the cold start valve hasn't acted the same anymore. i read somewhere on here that you don't need it anyways. can anyone explain how to bypass it. it looks like theirs just a vacuum hose on the valve under the t/b that connects to the IACV.

 

i just realized i called it the wrong thing.. i'm talking about the fast idle thermo valve. hope that clears up any confusion.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oNeMoBB1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just realized i called it the wrong thing.. i'm talking about the fast idle thermo valve. hope that clears up any confusion.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The fast idle thermo valve has two coolent lines going into it, in order to bypass it, i'm guessing you just have to loop the two lines together, that way the coolent doesn't travel through the fast idle thermo valve.

 

further more you make a plate to seal the fast idle thermo valve from the tb ... if not you gonna have a bouncing idle

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by caLiH22A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The fast idle thermo valve has two coolent lines going into it, in order to bypass it, i'm guessing you just have to loop the two lines together, that way the coolent doesn't travel through the fast idle thermo valve.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

for those that dont know we are talking about number 13

 

Can't you just tighten the screw inside enough to not allow air to go past?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrokeLude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can't you just tighten the screw inside enough to not allow air to go past?</TD></TR></TABLE>

gee i did not see a screw when i took it off... but if that works great

 

thanks for the replies.. it doesn't sound like too much work. for those of you that have done the bypass mod does it affect performance at all?

 

It's not noticable, but theoretically in my head it affects performance

 

lol.. i'm assuming the means it affects performance in a good way.. yes?

 

Yeah, your throttle body stays a bit cooler, and cooler air is better, but that's it really..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oNeMoBB1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the replies.. it doesn't sound like too much work. for those of you that have done the bypass mod does it affect performance at all?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea that mod goes really good w/ the hondata heat sheild ... im doing that right now and boy its b!tch

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's not noticable, but theoretically in my head it affects performance </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ditto... I've had mine done for a while and I like it. I have a friend with a lude(no by-pass) and when we roll at night you can stop and feel his hot azz manifold, and then cool your hands down on mine(by-passed). Cold, dense air makes horsepower. Bottom line.

 

And oh yeah... I used a cut out soda can to block off the thermo valve. Idles great.

 

Yeah, there is a big plastic piece inside with threads. You could just tighten it so that it's in contact with the plunger all the time, just like it would be after it gets warm. Then you could bypass the coolant lines as mentioned to keep the heat down. HMMMM, may have to try this myself...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, your throttle body stays a bit cooler, and cooler air is better, but that's it really..</TD></TR></TABLE>

This piece stock preheats the air and ads heat to the throttle body. Bypasses it could make 1/2HP. They add up though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by five-0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And oh yeah... I used a cut out soda can to block off the thermo valve. Idles great.</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL great minds think alike

 

would using some of that cardboard-like gasket material work better than soda can metal? that metal seems like it would be too thin to hold up.

one more question cuz ima noob to this mod.. once you have taken the hoses off the bottom of the IACV in order to loop the coolant.. are you supposed to plug off the nozzles under the IACV or leave them open? thanks again

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oNeMoBB1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would using some of that cardboard-like gasket material work better than soda can metal? that metal seems like it would be too thin to hold up.

soda can metal is find, if u are not comfortable go ahead use a thicker material

one more question cuz ima noob to this mod.. once you have taken the hoses off the bottom of the IACV in order to loop the coolant.. are you supposed to plug off the nozzles under the IACV or leave them open? thanks again

no u dont have to plug it up

</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

dont disconnect 17 ... hav coolant flow in there and out

 

why do you need to have coolant run through #17 (IACV)??

i just finished mine but for some reason now the radiator is leaking from the drivers side i don't see how anything i did could have affected the radiator.. any ideas? or is it just coincidence that my radiator is messed up after i performed this modification?

 

i tried looping the coolant lines through the iac valve as well but i'm still leaking coolant when my car gets up to operating temps.. is there any possible way that this mod caused the problem? cuz i might have to put it back to the way it used to be now

 

hmmm i did not get any leaks... did u make sure there is no air in the cooling system...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oNeMoBB1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why do you need to have coolant run through #17 (IACV)??
</TD></TR></TABLE>
because it controls the engine's idle

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oNeMoBB1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i tried looping the coolant lines through the iac valve as well but i'm still leaking coolant when my car gets up to operating temps.. is there any possible way that this mod caused the problem? cuz i might have to put it back to the way it used to be now </TD></TR></TABLE>

Where is it leaking from? Without knowing that, how do you expect anybody to help you?

 

The fast idle valve aids when the car isnt warm yet, right? So what does the car act like when u first start it? Does it just dip down to around 500rpm? Wouldnt this be bad?