Hi all,

Last week, I changed the pads and front rotors on my wife’s 02 CRV LX. While pushing the brake piston in on the RF side, I ripped the rubber gasket on the piston, so I had to order a new one. I disconnected the caliber from the brake line and ordered a new caliber online (New remanufactured). It cam the next day, and the RF brake line was disconnected for about 36 hours. The new caliber came in and I installed it, and started the bleeding process. All other 3 calipers bled fine, i.e., I hooked up a clear hose to the bleeding screws, and initially there were some bubbles, but after 6-10 pedaling cycles, they went away. The RF is a problem child. After about 2 days of bleeding, and my wife’s feet getting numb, every time I open the RF bleeding screw for about 1 second and close it back, large pockets of air come out. Not even bubbles..
One thing to note, on the other 3 calipers, once I open the bleed screw, for a second or a little more, fluid keeps coming out. On the RF caliper, once I open the bleed screw and decide to keep it open for more than a second, the brake fluid stops coming out?? Some of my hypothesis perhaps you can help me with a solution plz..

1. Bad caliper?
2. Bad brake line?
3. Too much air in the system because I left the brake line open for 36 hours? And I need to bleed more? But we must have done over 50 pedal cycles and still the same scenario..
4. Is the caliper stuck somewhere, and I need to take it out and see what the blockage, since it’s new and the piston is retracted all the way?
5. There is a leak in the system somewhere?
6. Do I need to buy a professional bleeder from the store?
7. The "new remanufactured caliper" is almost identical to the old one, except for the where the brake line attaches to it. The groove to keep the brake line in place (so when tightening the brake line to caliper screw the brake line would not move) is on the bottom. Versus the top. which looks like it was meant to be for the left side of the car. But not sure if this is causing the problem. The brak line is tightening at 75 degrees, versus about 45 degrees with the groove on the top. But I adjusted to be as close to 45 degrees, but no improvement to the bleeding..

Sorry for the long e-mail, but thanks for any help. So I can put this together and get the wife on the road again..

Francino

 

Run through that line...start at the master cylinder and run through the system making sure that there is enough fluid in the master cylinder, and then check for where the problem begins and ends. basic trouble shooting...

 

Try bleeding the system starting at the caliper that is farthest from the master cylinder, right rear, and then work your way to the closest. Next do left rear, try the problem right front and finish with left front.

Does it have ABS??? There might be air in your ABS pump.

Let us know of your progress.

 

Proper bleeding sequence on new hondas is lf,rf,rr,lr. As someone else noted the air might be in your abs modulator, try bleeding there then go all around the brakes. Make sure your reservoir is topped off at all times!

 

The shape of the line may be allowing air to run back up the line. 2 person brake bleed, pump up the pedal (slowly so as not to aerate the fluid) to create pressure, hold the pedal down, then crack the bleeder open, watch fluid surge out, close the bleeder and repeat.

Fluid comes out a little faster and I've had good results with difficult cars using this method.

Good luck