Let me begin by saying, i have a car unlike any other. I hate it.

Here's my car in a nutshell:
B18C1 OBD1
VTECFrog OBD0-OBD1 harness (repinned cyl/crank wires)
Locash Distributor harness
4 wire o2 sensor
OBD0 Injectors with resistor box
Autometer dash (aka, no VSS)
J1 gearbox
Skunk2 intake manifold
P72 ECU
Fields VTEC Controller.

Now, issues encountered and solutions:

Problem
engine won't start. will crank over but will not run.
Solution
VTECFrog harness and Locash distributor harness don't jive. VTECFrog harness is colour to colour; Locash harness is sensor to sensor. This becomes a problem with the Cyl and crank pins. either repin VTECFrog harness or locash harness.


Problem
Engine runs, but hesitates whenever gas is applied, regardless of rpm.
Solution
Spark plug wires needed to be replaced.


Problem
Engine runs, no longer hesitates, but, has no power. timing belt cover was completely removed and no timing arrow present.
Solution
Adjusted timing, test drove. If it ran like crap, adjusted timing again, test drove. Adjusted it until it drove somewhat normally.


Problem
Engine revs to 8200rpms two or three times after being started, then CEL pops up and rev limit is cut back to 6200-6400rpms.
Solution
The SFC Fields VTEC Controller. The controller was hooked up properly, however, the P72 hates the SFC or vice-versa. Say, you do a launch from a stand still and you are WOT... thru first, VTEC will engage properly. Second gear, depending on how fast you're revving, it'll go to the rev-limiter or it'll cut short, as the SFC takes some time to send a weird signal to your ECU.

Your ecu then cuts fuel and throws a code 22 (VTEC Oil Pressure). You curse and moan thinking you broke something. Nope.
Bottom line, SFC doesn't work properly with P72 and CRX.

What I did was bypassed the SFC and hooked up the VTEC wire straight to the ecu. Drove it... took it to 8200rpms a few times. but wait...no VTEC? why not?!? NO VSS!!! The lack of a VSS was never an issue with my B16A1 cause i had a chipped PR3. Hopefully someone will learn from my trial and errors...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Driven &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What I did was bypassed the SFC and hooked up the VTEC wire straight to the ecu. Drove it... took it to 8200rpms a few times. but wait...no VTEC? why not?!? NO VSS!!! The lack of a VSS was never an issue with my B16A1 cause i had a chipped PR3. Hopefully someone will learn from my trial and errors...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You should have a VSS. The electromechanical VSS in your speedometer is completely compatible with a 1992+ ECU. I have run this exact setup in quite a number of cars witgh no problem. Are you actually getting a code 17? If so, maybe your ECU jumper is not connecting the ECU to the VSS.

By the way, you can avoid alot of these problems if you do your own wiring. Using other people's stuff from multiple sources creates problems because of subtle differences in the way that different people wire. It is cheaper to do your own wiring as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StorminMatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You should have a VSS. The electromechanical VSS in your speedometer is completely compatible with a 1992+ ECU. I have run this exact setup in quite a number of cars witgh no problem. Are you actually getting a code 17? If so, maybe your ECU jumper is not connecting the ECU to the VSS.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
here's the thing, i don't have a oem gauge cluster (hence, Autometer dash). I have autometer tach/speedo/volt/oil press/water temp/etc.
and i've got a code 17

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It is cheaper to do your own wiring as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>
except, i'm lazy!

 

If you use an OBD1 ECU you really need to use an OBD1 VSS. The obd0 ecu reads 0-5 volt pulses and the obd1 ecu reads 0-12v pulses.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jester88Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you use an OBD1 ECU you really need to use an OBD1 VSS. The obd0 ecu reads 0-5 volt pulses and the obd1 ecu reads 0-12v pulses.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats interesting info. I've never heard this before.
When you say the obd-0 vss gives off a 5v pulse, are you referring to the factory
vss-in-cluster setup? Or are you referring to the electronic vss that a lot of people get with their obd-0 b16a swaps?

 

I have almost the same setup and similar problems do you have any advice.

Setup:
Locash conversion harness (made by Vtecfrog repinned by Locash)
Locash Dizzy
Locash computer


VTECFrog harness and Locash distributor harness don't jive. VTECFrog harness is colour to colour; Locash harness is sensor to sensor. This becomes a problem with the Cyl and crank pins. either repin VTECFrog harness or locash harness.

What did you do to fix this problem?

Problem
Engine runs, but hesitates whenever gas is applied, regardless of rpm.
Solution
Spark plug wires needed to be replaced.

This is the exact problem I am having only replacing the plug wires did not help

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jester88Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you use an OBD1 ECU you really need to use an OBD1 VSS. The obd0 ecu reads 0-5 volt pulses and the obd1 ecu reads 0-12v pulses.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I beg to differ, as I hooked up a gauge cluster i had laying around. routed the single VSS wire to the ecu.

and i think i drove the car for a good 15 mins last night red-lining almost every gear cause it was the first time I had driven the car in VTEC in a long time!
aka, OBD0 VSS will work.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxgsr91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">VTECFrog harness and Locash distributor harness don't jive. VTECFrog harness is colour to colour; Locash harness is sensor to sensor. This becomes a problem with the Cyl and crank pins. either repin VTECFrog harness or locash harness.

What did you do to fix this problem?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I had to repin the CYL and Crank sensor wires. what happens is, Locash says for example, the ecu pin A6 should be to control your VTEC (or whatever it's really suppose to do, but, it's an example), regardless of colour.

VTECFrog's harness says, A6 is white in colour. So, whatever was white in colour should plug into A6, regardless of function.

when you go to do the distributor wiring (or, like i did, buy the harness from locash), you have to either pin it by sensor (if you use locash's harness) or by colour (if you use VTECFrog's harness).

I found this out by tracing where each wire goes on the jumper harness.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is the exact problem I am having only replacing the plug wires did not help</TD></TR></TABLE>
This could also be a loose ground or spark plugs. I also replaced plugs which didn't show any noticable difference, but it could be something for you?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rioninja &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thats interesting info. I've never heard this before.
When you say the obd-0 vss gives off a 5v pulse, are you referring to the factory
vss-in-cluster setup? Or are you referring to the electronic vss that a lot of people get with their obd-0 b16a swaps?</TD></TR></TABLE> I was reffering to the vss in gauge cluster setup, I didn't know any of the first gen b16s had electronic vss's maybe the 92+ b16s had electronic VSS's.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Driven &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I beg to differ, as I hooked up a gauge cluster i had laying around. routed the single VSS wire to the ecu.

and i think i drove the car for a good 15 mins last night red-lining almost every gear cause it was the first time I had driven the car in VTEC in a long time!
aka, OBD0 VSS will work.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I never said it wouldn't work, It'll just never get the right reading but if VTEC engages I guess it'll be fine

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jester88Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I never said it wouldn't work, It'll just never get the right reading but if VTEC engages I guess it'll be fine </TD></TR></TABLE>
good point.

I'm sure the right way is to have the proper voltage applied to the ecu for the signal. although, that is good info to have!

I'm just happy the bastard works!

 

chip the p72

I wish I had some ecus for sale right now... But I don't


I would sell the p72 because you dont need IAB control. and get a chipped p28/p30 and chip it for your motor and vtec not vss dependant.

acutally I have a jdm p30, and a p28 for sale

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jester88Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you use an OBD1 ECU you really need to use an OBD1 VSS. The obd0 ecu reads 0-5 volt pulses and the obd1 ecu reads 0-12v pulses.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you look in the Helms for both cars you will see that you are 1/2 right.
The OBD-1 P28 looks for a 12V - no doubt about that.

However, the OBD-0 has the magnetic pulser and sends the ECU a ground signal... no voltage there - nada - zip - zero! No 5 volts to find there!

Notice how I say the P28 ECU - I can only say P28 because that's all I have had any OBD-0 to OBD-1 experience with. Mine didn't get a VSS signal from the OBD-0 cluster. I was throwing a 17 (VSS) and 21 (VTEC).
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=880736
After the mod, both codes went away. VTEC looks for VSS so that's why I got both codes.

Somebody at the bottom of that post had a P72 and was running it without problems with the OBD-0 type pulser. Odd.
I know the OBD-1 Accord has a 0~5v electronic VSS.
Maybe there's something trippy with the P72. No idea!


Back to the posters problems -
The OBD-O has the cable drive going from the tranny up to the back of the cluster to operate the speed pulser and the speedo. Tranny mounted electronic VSS cars DON'T have a cable drive. So, if you swap to an electronic tranny VSS you need to change out your OBD-0 cluster with it's mechanical drive speedo for something with an electronic speedo.

JDM EF clusters have the electonic speedo, but they read in km/h.
GSR cluster swaps are pretty common now. You can search here for the write-ups.

Ahhh - but you don't have a stock cluster. You have an autometer one. Maybe you could diassemble a stock OBD0 cluster and remove it's speed pulser and put it between your cable drive and the autometer. Then wire it the speed pulser up to 12V (Ignition switched - not constant 12V) with a resistor in line with it and the other end to the ECU. That would work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4drEF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Maybe you could diassemble a stock OBD0 cluster and remove it's speed pulser and put it between your cable drive and the autometer. </TD></TR></TABLE>
won't work. there's no way to have the pulsar switch mounted to the autometer drive without major work.

With that other thread, hopefully i can just run a resistor and 12v straight to the VSS... since the pulsar just looks like two thing pieces of metal that connect when there's a strong enough magnetic pull...

 

But that won't pulse.
It's just going to be a straight 12v.

It might not like that either.... guess you'll find out though!

 

This could also be a loose ground or spark plugs. I also replaced plugs which didn't show any noticable difference, but it could be something for you?

Actually replacing the spark plugs helped alot (sucks I spent alot of money on the Iridum plugs) it is still doing it a little bit so I was thinking of doing a MSD external coil.