ok, ditching the fuel pressure reg, and the dualie cat back
but if i go with a v2 intake, which supposedly charges the cyndlers throughout the rpm range, and an unorthodox pulley set including a crank pulley, an unorhodox flywheel, and some yokohama A550H (have to be all-season) tires, i should be getting some highly improved acceleration am i righ? ?

 

Look, with all that light weight **** (pullies, flywheel, etc.) your not going to be putting enough power to your power steering pump and a/c compressor. You want some good gains without buying all that up front, lose the power steering (write if you want a link to how to do this) and pull all the a/c **** out. Losing this will drop about 20-25 lbs. and free up about 10-12 whp. As far as intakes go.... they are all the same, piping is piping. The only thing that matters is the filter. Get a cheap ebay intake pipe, throw on a K&N filter and your good

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WishILivedInJapan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i should be getting some highly improved acceleration am i righ? ?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, you're wrong. I'd ditch the A/C (c'mon you live Mass. its never hot ) but I'd keep the power steering if (and only if) its your daily driver. And get a regular CAI, not the V2, and I'm not a big fan of short ram intakes but that's just my opinion. After all of this, you can expect modest (very modest) acceleration improvements

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMAccord2nr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> And get a regular CAI, not the V2, and I'm not a big fan of short ram intakes but that's just my opinion. After all of this, you can expect modest (very modest) acceleration improvements </TD></TR></TABLE>

What he said but.... does it rain much where your from and do you have another vehicle to drive when it does rain (hard rain not drizzle)? If this is the case and you do decide to go cold air, a bypass valve is most definitely a must.
But in hard rain with even moderate flooding, cold air can really **** up your car.

 

Intakes, generally, reduces low end and strengthens the high end...

Want more acceleration? get an LSD and some Engine work and/or swap

"Sporty" all season tyres (doesn't matter what brand) aren't gonna really "Help" out... Plus what size/weight of wheel are you running? you'll want a lightweight wheel to help reduce unsprung weight for better acceleration.

Speaking of lightweight...if you want better acceleration the lighter the car the better...ditch the whole interior & sound deadening Tar and get on a diet...

Dualy Cat-back? i'm guessing this is a dual canister "muffler"? what size piping are you running?

 

ditch the power steering? lol, i don't live on a race track. But ditching the a/c does sound intriguing, i think it ran out of freon anyway. I've already ditched the spare tire and am planning on removing the rear seats. But about the exhaust, i got a custom dual exhaust 2.25 piping on my car just like the v6's. And about the by-pass valve, i was def planning on that, but you said even in heavy rainstorms it might not help? how is this? are you referring to really humid air screwing up the engine or something?

 

if you have an I4 then def get rid of the dual exhaust... that is only HURTING your acceleration

 

Removing the rear seat will be good for 5 lbs maybe :thumbsdown:

I mean, GUTTING the car (no door panels, no headliner, no carpet, no trunk lining...we're talking bare bones here)

does this car happen to have exterior "accessories" ? (e.g...ADDED on stuff that wasn't oem?)

The 2.25" piping is good..but the Dual exhaust isn't...convert it back to stock "design"...

one thing to remember is BIGGER (or more...) is NOT ALWAYS BETTER (this applied to intake and exhaust)

 

sell your accord and get a newer one with a v6

 

guys common, "yeah just sell your car and buy a V6". yeah sure, anyone got 10,000 dollars i can borrow forever?
yeah, i guess the duals are hurting me low end but they help me alot top end (i want a well rounded car), besides, they sound like a stang and i love it. apart from nos/turbos, what about hotter cams/gears, that should help on the low end right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WishILivedInJapan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">besides, they sound like a stang and i love it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So, sell you're car and buy a mustang...you'll have all the Torque and Low end you'll ever want...plus you'll get that mustang sound

..really, we're tring to help...but you're not making it easy...

 

damn, thats a good suggestion!

 

1. Move to Japan.
2. Drop in a 3.8: GM, Mitsu, Chrysler, Ford. Any will give you tons of torque and can be found at a junkyard cheap.
3. Trade in on a supercharged Regal. They have an excellent website (www.RegalGS.org) where there's tons of good hop-up info.
4. Move to Japan.
5. Forget removing the spare, the rear seat, the a/c, the ps. Without a/c you will have no actual defrosting/defogging capacity. The spare weighs what, 20#? Try removing all the body panels instead, you'll lose more weight. Go to 12" wheels. Cut the roof off.
6. Move to Japan.

 

hotter cams will hurt lowend
the best cams for lowend are usually gonna be stock or a custom grind.

i still think the best idea is sell teh i4 accord and get a v6 accord. it will keep you in a hond and get a lot of the lowend back. anywa if you keep the i4 get used to very little lowend what do you expect with a small engine???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GreenAcres &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Move to Japan. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

h22 w/ lsd swap.......honestly, theres really no way to make the car that much quicker without getting your hands dirty..........strippping it isnt really good do much....just makes you look like a big ricer (if its daily driven...)if you wanna save some serious weight, and have a little change of scene, remove the front passenger seat......its really kinda a neat thing to have uber storage spave/leg room

 

But ditching the a/c does sound intriguing,

Does the AC really take that much power when off? It's just an extra free-spinning pulley.

I bypassed the AC compressor when it seized up, using a shorter belt, and there was no difference in power.

 

Throttle body bored out
New camshaft
Cam gear
Header
Short ram intake
FULL cat back
test pipe/high flow cat


Pullies will help a little as will stripping your car. Or you could just get a turbo

 

Remove the windshield and back glass. That way you won't have to worry about any defroster problems with the 15# you save when you toss the a/c overboard. Toss out all seats and bungee in a couple of aluminum lawn chairs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fw190bvi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">h22 w/ lsd swap.......honestly, theres really no way to make the car that much quicker without getting your hands dirty..........strippping it isnt really good do much....just makes you look like a big ricer (if its daily driven...)if you wanna save some serious weight, and have a little change of scene, remove the front passenger seat......its really kinda a neat thing to have uber storage spave/leg room</TD></TR></TABLE>

actually an h22a wont give any low end gains compared to an f22....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WishILivedInJapan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">guys common, "yeah just sell your car and buy a V6". yeah sure, anyone got 10,000 dollars i can borrow forever?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

It will cost you about 10k to get your accord to move fast off the line.

Err...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -Bionic- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Move to Japan</TD></TR></TABLE>