Has anyone heard of this or have any experience with it. The gasket is made from teflon. It insulates the manifold from the head reducing the temp transfer. Hondata claims that this can be a 4-6% gain in power. I have a couple of friends that said heat is drastically reduced and hp is noticable. The gaskets cost $60 and includes teflon washers.

Any info?

Thanks

 

Woe. 4-6% ? Sounds like a damn shlode of power for a gasket.... I don't believe it. All the heat that doesn't transfer will just stay in the motor and heat up the coolant more, which will flow through the mani anyway.......
edit-not saying it won't help at all though........



[Modified by sackdz, 2:45 PM 12/5/2001]

 

damn..is there a site we can check this out at?

 

I was wondering the same thing too. But too bad no one know the answer or proven it on a dyno yet.

 

it does help. However its all with heat soak. That power claim is probally on a JRSC car which can benifit from that gasket the most. I perosnally havn't tried it yet because you have to pull the blower and manafold to get it on. I will try it soon though when I start my next project.
But for NA people, I would try it. Heck $60 isn't anything at all really if it will help with reducing power loss during major races, etc... Also to put it on shouldn't be that hard for you guys.

 

[QUOTE]Woe. 4-6% ? Sounds like a damn shlode of power for a gasket.... I don't believe it. All the heat that doesn't transfer will just stay in the motor and heat up the coolant more, which will flow through the mani anyway.......
edit-not saying it won't help at all though........
[QUOTE]

Well, the gasket blocks all coolant flow through the manifold.
I also bypass the coolant that goes to the throttlebody and the IACV
so there is NO coolant touching the manifold whatsoever.
It makes a pretty good difference. I can actually TOUCH the manifold
after a running the car hard without burning myself. I havent
had the chance to datalog the temp changes, but I'll be sure to do
that in the near future so you all can see.

 

I have used them and like them alot. I have not had the pleasure to do back to back dyno pulls with and without one, unfortunatly...but can attest to its effectiveness at keeping the intake much cooler in turn cooling both the intake air and the injectors, rail, etc...both very good things.

doug has lots of info in them on the hondata.com website including some datalogs of intake sensort temps, etc...

the only downside I have experienced is difficulty installing the skunk2 manifolds with the gasket and teflon washers...the sk2 mani has a slightly thicker flange and the combination make the studs a little short in a few places...but not a big deal that can't be fixed.

davew.

 

I've bypassed the coolant flow on the TB as well.... I have never heard of anyone bypassing the manifold as well.. Doesn't this cause cold-idle problems?

 

I guess this is it.

http://hondata.com/heatshield.html

 

No. doesnt cause any idle problems. However if you do bypass the manifold
coolant flow, then you must reroute the coolant bypass from another source
or else the car will overheat. I usually tee the heater hose that exits the side
of the cyl head.

 

The DRT ITR/GSR maniflod convesion also seals off the same 2 coolant passages. they weld both of them shut and claim to have not had any problems on their motors...

dave w

 

I do the valve train this weekend and the Hondata heatshield will be placed too! I got it diractly from Doug at the SEMA! I have the install PDF file at home when someone like it.


[Modified by austrian ITR, 11:25 PM 12/5/2001]

 

Post your thoughts Mon.

 

Maybe. I do not drive my R in the Winter. I drive only to the install garage of my friend and back. The climate is very cold now, so I realy can not tell if it is worth to get it or not. I think I can give you some real numbers with my Haltech E6K dataloggs in February. Sorry, you must wait some times.

 

What is the advantage and disadvantage of bypassing the coolant flow on the TB??

Also, what is the easiest way of doing it?

 

I think it will be a very good idea for DRAG. For the circuit, your engine will be so hot anyways after the first session. I think itwill benefit for the 1st session of the lapping day event.

 

Same idea, keeps intake charge denser due to lower temps. all you need is a mal/male hose fitting, pull the 2 line out and connect them.

 

Didn't have dyno to compare differences, so I can't tell.

The 1st versions eliminated the IM coolant hole and some people reported over-heating problems. 2nd version retains the hole for coolant going through the intake manifold.

 

The gasket have to be dyno tested.
It's about 5 mm. thick so intake manifold runner will be longer respect stock.
Longer runners bear less peak hp more midrange torque. Or not?
Paul.

 

I also have one of the gaskets to try, but I am planning upon taking it a few steps further. My intent is to also thermal coat the intake manifold inside and out, and hang it on the head with stainless steel studs, nuts, and washers which transfer heat at a slower rate to the manifold. I will also thermal coat the inside of the hot water outlet on the manifold so not as much heat transfers to the manifold and thus incoming air.

Hopefully this will keep the incoming air as cool as is possible in the manifold,

Any thoughts on this?

Thanks,
John

 

John,
I think it's a very good idea, let us know any feedback.
Paul.

 

A guy here in town is running a ITR manifold that has been coated inside and out with HPC heat barrier coating.

He told me the manifold feels hotter than stock when you touch it after a hard run.

 

Don't forget that you'll lose your heater function as well, unless you re-route coolant from somewhere else.

Mike

 

Yea, that makes sense to me, I don't see why you'd want to coat it at all. If coolant is running through it, the coating will just insulate it and it will lose less heat to the air

 

And how would you lose your heater? The heater lines aren t affected.