I just got done doing the dr side axle and it didn't seem to have this problem of being unable to slide into the hub. Doing the pass side is another story...it seems to be impossible to get the end of the axle fully into the hub slot. It goes about 1/2 the way on the thread and then gets stuck. I don't want to force it and **** up the threads. Anyone with suggestions pls thanks

(just to clarify I'm talking about the end of the axle that goes into the hub/wheel and not the transmission end--this end went in fine no probs).

 

Can you get it in far enough to start the hub nuts on the threads? If so, you should be able to just tigten the nut to pull the axle in. If not, try using some WD40 or apply some grease to the splines and try pushing it in again.

 

no, i can't get it far enough so i can start threading it yet. it's like a good 5-6mm from being able to be thread though..

 

use a small wire brush or file on the hub to get the corrosion out and a wire wheel on the axle... then put some form of grease, oil, anti corrosion spray in there.

i did mine in the winter once and then next summer when i went to take them back out i had to hammer them back out.... corrosion sux

 

thanks for the suggestion man.

one more question - will PB BLASTER work for this?

 

ugh, this **** still isn't going in....what the ****.

 

I assume you have tried rotating the axle and/or wheel bearing slightly, right? Are you sure you got the correct axle?

 

definitely try cleanign the hub out with a wire brush or something, and definitely DONT try and pull it on by threading the nut on and tightening.

you dont want to force it on if it doesnt want to go in, it will only end up breaking something, and imagine tryign to get that axle back out after you had to force it on,

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eddiebx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">definitely try cleanign the hub out with a wire brush or something, and definitely DONT try and pull it on by threading the nut on and tightening.

you dont want to force it on if it doesnt want to go in, it will only end up breaking something, and imagine tryign to get that axle back out after you had to force it on, </TD></TR></TABLE>

If you get the end into the hub far enough to thread on the nut, then it's already far enough in that pulling it in the rest of the way won't hurt anything. Sometimes it's hard to manuever it in all the way by hand, especially with the weight of that stuff and everything being pretty cumbersome (trying to hold the spindle/brake assembly w/ one hand, manuever axle in w/ other hand). But once you get the nut threaded on, you can just stick a screwdriver in the brake caliper to keep the hub from turning and tighten the nut to pull it the rest of the way.

But he hasn't even gotten that far yet, so that wouldn't work for him anyway.

 

hit the rotor with a hammer a few times to try and get the hub down to far enough where you can thread the axle nut

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hammerdgolfer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hit the rotor with a hammer a few times to try and get the hub down to far enough where you can thread the axle nut</TD></TR></TABLE>

You would think he hasn't thought of that....

 

try rotating the axle assembly, it sounds like your splines aren't lined up correctly.

just try wiggling it some, it should slide in fine

 

Whatever you do, DON'T hit anything with a hammer. Me and a buddy where helping my other friend change the axles on his accord and we had the same problem on the pass side. After some pounding with a rubber/plastic orange hammer it went in. Later that day you could fell the wheel wobbling and ****. Turns out by pounding on the hub assembly or w/e its called it knocked something loose that shouldnt be loose and we tried tightening up everything again but the wobbling wouldnt stop. He ended up having to take it to the shop and it cost him an extra $500.

edit: i THINK it was the pounding that caused the damage, it coulda been my buddies fault. I did the driver side when reassembling everything so i cant be sure he did everything right since i wasnt watching him.

 

well i pounded the **** out of my rotor with a hammer...i got the axle thru the hole, and in the process ******* up the new axle by seperating the bearings inside the boot... will be getting a replacement tomorrow

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phish &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i pounded the **** out of my rotor with a hammer...i got the axle thru the hole, and in the process ******* up the new axle by seperating the bearings inside the boot... will be getting a replacement tomorrow</TD></TR></TABLE>

which boot, inner or outer? If it's the inner joint, (boot overextended) you can usually get it back together. You might have to take the axle back out but you should be able to get it back together.

 

I used a rubber mallet and lots of antiseize

 

the one nearest to the tranny got disconnected.

not sure whether that's inner or outer...anyways, hopefully everything will go smooth today when I try the new axle...with my luck it won't though. I'll probably still have trouble getting it thru the hub...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phish &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the one nearest to the tranny got disconnected.

not sure whether that's inner or outer...anyways, hopefully everything will go smooth today when I try the new axle...with my luck it won't though. I'll probably still have trouble getting it thru the hub...</TD></TR></TABLE>

it looked like the inner boot got really stretched out right? That just means the rollers inside came out of the joint. The boot itself is the only thing that keeps it together. If the boot were not there, the inner joint would just slide off freely (when the axle is off the car). Usually if that happens, and you remove the axle, you can get them to go back in, no big deal.

 

sometimes they are a bitch to get the splines to match up to push thru. just keep trying . make sure the splines are exactly matching up. make sure the splines are clean on the hub and axle too. if all else fails. start beating on it with a BFH. some will tell you its not a good idea, but sometimes you just have to do it. i know ive had to

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2muchGT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Whatever you do, DON'T hit anything with a hammer. Me and a buddy where helping my other friend change the axles on his accord and we had the same problem on the pass side. After some pounding with a rubber/plastic orange hammer it went in. Later that day you could fell the wheel wobbling and ****. Turns out by pounding on the hub assembly or w/e its called it knocked something loose that shouldnt be loose and we tried tightening up everything again but the wobbling wouldnt stop. He ended up having to take it to the shop and it cost him an extra $500.

edit: i THINK it was the pounding that caused the damage, it coulda been my buddies fault. I did the driver side when reassembling everything so i cant be sure he did everything right since i wasnt watching him.</TD></TR></TABLE>

probably messed up the wheel hub. i did that once.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr206 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sometimes they are a bitch to get the splines to match up to push thru. just keep trying . make sure the splines are exactly matching up. make sure the splines are clean on the hub and axle too. if all else fails. start beating on it with a BFH. some will tell you its not a good idea, but sometimes you just have to do it. i know ive had to</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've never had to use a hammer to get it in. Usually greasing it up alot and making sure it is clean is good enough. Then just wiggle the living **** out of it and it should slide in. As this dude found out, you have to make sure you don't pull the axle out too much in the process because the joint will seperate.