Please get me best combination for the above upgrade (ie crankshaft,piston (high comp around 12,and conrod) car will be running on Toda B, PowerFC, SPOON header, SPOON B-pipe and N1. Intake is modified 4AG quadthrottle with 48mm flap.

Car will be raced for SUPER TOURING CLASS. Max engine capacity will be 2L.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC2#309 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Please get me best combination for the above upgrade (ie crankshaft,piston (high comp around 12,and conrod) car will be running on Toda B, PowerFC, SPOON header, SPOON B-pipe and N1. Intake is modified 4AG quadthrottle with 48mm flap.

Car will be raced for SUPER TOURING CLASS. Max engine capacity will be 2L.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
well for anyone serious for joining this class i can hardly believe your serious by making this post...
youll need 1.8 ltr crank and re-born to 84.5 mm cylinders, good luck and let us all know how you do.

 

sleeve it then bore it to 85mm, u dont need a 1.8 crank...keep the 1.6 crank so u can rev faster.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hyper16-Johnny &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sleeve it then bore it to 85mm</TD></TR></TABLE>

iirc, this just brings it to a 1.8L with a very nice r/s ratio..... so it wouldn't be 2L and wouldn't make as much torque.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

iirc, this just brings it to a 1.8L with a very nice r/s ratio..... so it wouldn't be 2L and wouldn't make as much torque..... </TD></TR></TABLE>

I didnt think this was true, but i could be wrong.

I always believed the block was same as a ITR block with crank, rods and pistons on the slim side. I believe if he did put that 1.8 crank in with the larger bore, like the post said, he would achieve the 2.0 mark.

 

with a b16 crank nope he wont make 2000cc 84.5 it also depends on the crank also hence different rod ratio b16 better for revability but less powaA at same bore. gs-r more powaA less revability id keep b16 crank go 85mm. 12.1 might be a little too much maybe go 11.1 and mill the head to get compression and get flat faced valves to get compression end up around 12 that way. you can also go gs-r crank with custom relocated piston i believe this is the best option but even without relocating the wrist pins...how high you plan to rev to.

 

Must sleeve it, stock sleeves are pretty weak, esp boring it out so much. Stroking it might cause a lot more vibration in the cylinder walls so revability might go down as with anything you do to increase the displacement. the CTR crank is counter weight balanced too right?

 

yea max bor eon stock sleeve is 84mm buts thats pushing it. stroking causing vibration ive never heard of that yet but it exerts more force on it sideway like pretend a piston goes up and down like this| but wiht it stroke it puts more force on its like wants to be like /. like if you road race chill in the high rpm iti rarely happen but the piston could end up going through the sleeve hella white smoke it has happened before but i thought this was the reason for its revability going down not cause of the vibration but im not sure.

 

since your block is essentially a b18c..........i would get the
eagle stroker kit. 1.8 stroked to 2.0

which consists of..............
95mm crank
forged rods
and forged pistons with relocated pistons.

you'd save money on boring out and resleeving your motor.

b16b=b18c
both blocks have the same deck heighth.
b16b is a destroked b18c.

 

yea, but the powerband with the eagle kit would be way different. depending on what cams and header are used, he may be better off with that, or with a gsr crank and 85mm pistons.

 

id go....
gsr crank (knife edged)
12:1 comp. pistons (make more comp. with head)
84mm bore (sleeve)
custom relocated piston (endyne piston)
custom con. rods
toda oil pump gear
mugen oil pan
z10 full block girdle
z10 harmonic balancer
electric water pump
arp head studs

thats just the block

 

why all the extra stuff? knife edged crank? custom rods and pistons? if he goes gsr crank and 84.5mm bore, he'll be right there. no need for all that other stuff. the b16b IS a b18c block, so he doesnt need anything custom. and i doubt a knife edged crank is needed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Be &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I didnt think this was true, but i could be wrong.

I always believed the block was same as a ITR block with crank, rods and pistons on the slim side. I believe if he did put that 1.8 crank in with the larger bore, like the post said, he would achieve the 2.0 mark. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Reread what the guy wrote that I was replying to..... he said with a 1.6 crank. That DOES NOT = 2L with 84.5 bore. It works out to a 1.8L with a b16 crank. To get to 2L, he will need a gsr crank with that bore. Get it?

Since we're on the subject though:

What would have the perfect r/s ratio and be 2L without a deckplate? Now THAT's the question.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Since we're on the subject though:

What would have the perfect r/s ratio and be 2L without a deckplate? Now THAT's the question..... </TD></TR></TABLE>

K20...

 

So can I get any one to summarise it? Seems like GSR crank is good, so what rod (brand) should I use, some one recommended me Eagle, anything else? And someone recommended me Endyne piston? Good combination? Camshaft would be TODA B, I like the power band, but not sure if it is 2L, anyone?

 

Why take the time to stroke this and that?

Locate a B20 bare block and start building from there.