rotating control arms??
Today i got my wheels aligned and this guy is really good with framing adjustments and alignment. He asked if it rides rough. I said yes but thats because i slammed it because i had so much positive camber i didnt want to wear the new tires out in a few days. So he said ok well when you get you new suspension it wont mess with the camber much even though it will be an inch difference BUT what you should do is take your right tie rod and put it on the left side and vise versa but u have to drill a hole in the ball joint?? im not sure i couldnt picture what he was saying but he said it makes these cars (91 crx) ride alot smoother even with rough suspension...anyone know where to drill this hole or what he's talking about???? i think im going to just have him do it...
I think he was trying to address possible bump-steer issues you may experience from being extremely lowered/"slammed". And rather than switching the tie-rods left <--> right (not sure that would have even worked, since I thought the two sides are opposite threaded), perhaps he was saying flip them upside down so they mount into the knuckle from the bottom. In which case you would have to drill out the hole for the ball-joint since it is tappered.
Take a look at this thread: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=930308 Has a discussion of a bump-steer kit, some pics and describes what I was trying to do.
Take a look at this thread: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=930308 Has a discussion of a bump-steer kit, some pics and describes what I was trying to do.
I see what he's talking about now since my car was so low thats why he was asking if i was going to keep it that low! The only part i dont understand is why or where you would drill this hole?? Im sitting here like ok why cant i just flip it over WAIT! i get it whyu flip the left to the right..because it has the c curve in the rod end and its in a certain direction for a reason so by turning it upside down the c curve would be pointing the other way so by moving them upside down and switching them left to right the c curve is in the same direction just upside down and makes it move level ok i got it now damn im retarded thanks for the info....BUT why am i drilling a hole somewhere????
Well, if it's what I was thinking he meant... I don't think he wants to drill another hole. He just wants to drill/ream out the existing hole for the ball-joint. The ball-joint is tappered like a cone, so the hole in the knuckle matches it like this:
\V/
Where the "V" is the ball joint and the "\" and "/" are the walls of the hole.
Flipping the tie-rods give you this:
\ /
A
Well kinda, but you get the idea. The ball joint won't seat in the hole completely. The problem with drilling is it gives you a straight hole for a tappered ball-joint, so you need a tappered bit. And probably some kind of insert for the top tappered half of the hole:
\ /
/A\
\V/
Where the "V" is the ball joint and the "\" and "/" are the walls of the hole.
Flipping the tie-rods give you this:
\ /
A
Well kinda, but you get the idea. The ball joint won't seat in the hole completely. The problem with drilling is it gives you a straight hole for a tappered ball-joint, so you need a tappered bit. And probably some kind of insert for the top tappered half of the hole:
\ /
/A\
Ok i got that part and i understand how hard it is to make that bastard not spin in the first place when u try and tighten it. Not being tapered would make it spin like crazy. i'll have to see how much its off when i get the other suspention kit cause it will be raised so the bump steer might not be at an angle..thanks
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