Hi guys,

Well today I had the first major problem with the car after the swap. It happened when I was 5 minutes away from leaving home while getting on the freeway. It was partly my fault because I was to busy paying attention to merging traffic and I accidentally hit fuel cut.

Just a quick history about the car: motor was installed a week ago, upon start up I got a code 16, 17 and 41. Today I reset the ECU and I only got the code 17 and 41 (VSS and O2 heater). I dont have my sdeedo hooked up, and as a result I think my car is in limp mode, and will not go into VTEC.

What happened: I was going to get something to eat and I had to get on the freeway. I was accelerating past 5000-5500 RPM when I must have hit fuel cut, because the car surge and when I looked back at the TACH, the RPMs were dropping. The oil light came on, but I think that is normal when the engine is not on but there is power. I coasted to the shoulder and once I stopped I tried to start it up but with no luck. I wired up my ground wire for the CEL to se what codes would blink up, but the CEL stayed light up and did not blink.

Coolant levels were ok, and oil level is ok. Car cranks over with no abnormal noises or clunking. Could my ECU be dead? the CEL light not blinking even for my old VSS and O2 codes make me think that the ECU is dead. I thought that a solid CEL means it is a code 0 or code 1 which is the ECM.

anyways, the car is back in my parking stall and I'm about to go take a closer looks at it. I'm gonna take off the valve cover, and maybe even the head and see what I can see. But any input you guys may have would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

hi guys,

I just took the valve cover off and I checked the spark plugs. The cams, cam caps, and cam bolts as well as the whole valvetrain look intact, so my workmanship lookst like it held up there. Spark plugs are still in good condition, they weren't wet or broken or anything like that.

After I put that stuff back in place I put the key in the ignition and put in the ON position to see if I could hear the relays click. But when I turned it to the ON position, I did not hear any clicking. I re-checked the fuses in the passenger side engine bay fuse box and none of them are blown.

So could I have blown the fuel relay when I hit fuel cut or something? what can you guys make of my problem? I thought that maybe my dizzy was bad but I think it might just be a blown fuel relay.

TIA

 

GODDAMITALLTOFUCKINGHELL!!!!

I just got done rechecking the fuses in the engine bay when I realized that I f-ing forgot to check the ones under the dash!!! I went under the car for a quick look and checked all the underhood fuses and sure enough my alternator fuse was blown. dammit dammit dammit dammit dammit!!!! I just spent $55 for a tow truck because of a damn .10 cent fuse that I forgot to check!!!.

I'm just lucky I wasn't strapped for cash after the install, or that this problem had not been something worst. I guess I have to treat my swapped CRX just like my old RX-7. I need to keep a bag of fuses in the car in case the same thing happens again.

 

oh yah and one more thing :sticks up middle finger at car:

 

Don't you just LOVE working on your car

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sikocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't you just LOVE working on your car </TD></TR></TABLE>

yah I do, but there's a difference between working on it when it breaks and working on it to put something on. hehehe

One thing that did happen while I was broken down on the freeway, was somebody was kind enough to stop and lend assistance. But when the guy comes over to me he hands me a flyer for his shop which is closeby. My smile kind went away real quick when he did that. He didn't even offer to look under the hood or even call me a tow truck. He just hands me a flyer says "visits our shop" then he leaves.

 

same problem happened to me I hit a bump and my alternator fuse blew. car wouldn't start hell fucken weird.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bossman032 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">same problem happened to me I hit a bump and my alternator fuse blew. car wouldn't start hell fucken weird.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey again guys, I went out and took the car for another drive todays. My clutch is broken in so I went to see what the car could do. I did several WOT runs, gradually raising the RPM limit before letting off the throttle. First I went to 5500, then I took it to 6000 a few times, then I went up to 6500 twice. So I decided to see how high I could take it but it died again somewhere around 7000+ RPM.

I checked the fuse that blew on me before, and sure enough it was the same 10A fuse labeled ALT SOL, or something like that. I dont know what could have caused this fuse to blow. Last time I thought that it was cause my alternator was getting caught on the framerail. But I changed my alternator the the shortest one that you could possibly install, but my fuse still blew. Luckily there are still plenty of spare 10A fuses in the fuse box.

It looks like there is still too little room between the alternator and the framerail. But what do you guys think could be the cause of the ALT SOL fuse blowing upon acceleration or in bossmans case hitting a bump? This weekend I might go to the hobby shop again and remove the alternator and see if I can make the framerail dent bigger without taking out the whole motor. I think maybe a long solid pipe and a hammer should do the trick.

TIA

 

I'd venture to guess that something isn't grounded. When you hit the bump, a short happens and fuse gets blown. At high acceleration, perhaps the vibration of the car is causing something to move and hence another short. But, as I said, this is only a guess.

 

Check all wires....I'm sure there's a short somewhere. I had the same problem but with my brake light, cluster light, and interior light fuse waaaay back in the day. I kept blowing that same damn fuse, upon hitting a bump or shifting hard into gears at high rpm's. It found out that 2 wires were actually hitting metal to metal, causing the fuse to blow. Just a possibility man....but I'd start there.

PS
The two wires were relayed to my headlights/turn signals. But I doubt that would be the same location for your case.

 

I found a few threads on this same thing and they all said the same things you guys did.

So besides the headlights, taillights, and fuel system wiring, what other places would I want to check? I guess I'll start checking all my qiring and see if there is anything loose or contacting metal somewhere.

 

same dang thing happened to me...i spent about 2 hours at walmart checking crap till i found out that 2 fuses...alt, and starter(originals from when i got the car) blew.....5 motors later......about time i blow a fuse