cheap tricks for power
lol made my morning<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr_eg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fart into throttle body
pure methane baby</TD></TR></TABLE>
pure methane baby</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostedBildo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">throttle body, underdrive pullies, short shifter (not for engine but helps you shift a bit faster), body graphics (atleast 50 hp
)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't forget a big *** wing, better handling in a FWD with a 6ft wing!
Power does not come cheap unless you want it to be shitty and break down!
POWER=$$$
)</TD></TR></TABLE>Don't forget a big *** wing, better handling in a FWD with a 6ft wing!
Power does not come cheap unless you want it to be shitty and break down!
POWER=$$$
Trending Topics
Remove air intake resonator = $0
Remove interior = $0
K&N Drop-In filter = $40
Short-Ram intake pipe = $20
Ported throttle body = $100
Matched intake manifold = $100
OEM Spark Plugs = $8
OEM Ignition Wires = $60
steal a turbo from a 1g eclipse: $0
buy heater hosing for charge piping: $50
have your friend weld the manifold to your car cause it doesn't fit: $0
the whole idea and forgeting about fuel management: stupid
there's a $50 turbo kit that some moron in my town did.
buy heater hosing for charge piping: $50
have your friend weld the manifold to your car cause it doesn't fit: $0
the whole idea and forgeting about fuel management: stupid
there's a $50 turbo kit that some moron in my town did.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dimi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Remove air intake resonator = $0
Remove interior = $0
K&N Drop-In filter = $40
Short-Ram intake pipe = $20
Ported throttle body = $100
Matched intake manifold = $100
OEM Spark Plugs = $8
OEM Ignition Wires = $60</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, yes, more like $50, yes-eBay, ehh? $150, match the port yourself-FREE, yes and NGK-$40. Just saved even more money! WooHoo!
Being cheap rules!
Remove interior = $0
K&N Drop-In filter = $40
Short-Ram intake pipe = $20
Ported throttle body = $100
Matched intake manifold = $100
OEM Spark Plugs = $8
OEM Ignition Wires = $60</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, yes, more like $50, yes-eBay, ehh? $150, match the port yourself-FREE, yes and NGK-$40. Just saved even more money! WooHoo!
Being cheap rules!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NA_B16a2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Don't forget a big *** wing, better handling in a FWD with a 6ft wing!
Power does not come cheap unless you want it to be shitty and break down!
POWER=$$$</TD></TR></TABLE>
whats the fastest youve ever been in a fwd? believe it or not after 100mph it realy helps stabilize you *** end.
as for cheap modifications. go to radio shack and buy 12-15 foot of two gauge wire and install a new power wire to the main fuse bus from battery and a new ground from battery and replace all the grounds in the engine bay, next you want to use the remaing wire to link all the existing gounds together to form a daisy chain. then you have a very effective gounding kit plus up the power supply stability. if you want to go future go to radio shack and buy you an electrolytic capicitor for about 50 cent and wire it in to the main relay bus and you can garuntee exact voltages on all your sensors. some people hook them up to the ecu to garauntee the ecu has stable power for exact performance.
same concept to the stiffing cap on your stereo set ups.
Don't forget a big *** wing, better handling in a FWD with a 6ft wing!
Power does not come cheap unless you want it to be shitty and break down!
POWER=$$$</TD></TR></TABLE>
whats the fastest youve ever been in a fwd? believe it or not after 100mph it realy helps stabilize you *** end.
as for cheap modifications. go to radio shack and buy 12-15 foot of two gauge wire and install a new power wire to the main fuse bus from battery and a new ground from battery and replace all the grounds in the engine bay, next you want to use the remaing wire to link all the existing gounds together to form a daisy chain. then you have a very effective gounding kit plus up the power supply stability. if you want to go future go to radio shack and buy you an electrolytic capicitor for about 50 cent and wire it in to the main relay bus and you can garuntee exact voltages on all your sensors. some people hook them up to the ecu to garauntee the ecu has stable power for exact performance.
same concept to the stiffing cap on your stereo set ups.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1999silverhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yes, yes, more like $50, yes-eBay, ehh? $150, match the port yourself-FREE, yes and NGK-$40. Just saved even more money! WooHoo!
Being cheap rules!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm talking precise porting here. Not "let's just use the Dremel and see how much we open the inlet!!"
yes, yes, more like $50, yes-eBay, ehh? $150, match the port yourself-FREE, yes and NGK-$40. Just saved even more money! WooHoo!
Being cheap rules!
</TD></TR></TABLE>I'm talking precise porting here. Not "let's just use the Dremel and see how much we open the inlet!!"
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dimi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm talking precise porting here. Not "let's just use the Dremel and see how much we open the inlet!!" </TD></TR></TABLE>
Match porting is pretty basic though. Anyone with a gasket, marker and dremel can do that.
I'm talking precise porting here. Not "let's just use the Dremel and see how much we open the inlet!!" </TD></TR></TABLE>
Match porting is pretty basic though. Anyone with a gasket, marker and dremel can do that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WAFFLES »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Match porting is pretty basic though. Anyone with a gasket, marker and dremel can do that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
can u guys at extreme do it for me fast and cheap?!
Match porting is pretty basic though. Anyone with a gasket, marker and dremel can do that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
can u guys at extreme do it for me fast and cheap?!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syner-G-Racing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
whats the fastest youve ever been in a fwd? believe it or not after 100mph it realy helps stabilize you *** end.
as for cheap modifications. go to radio shack and buy 12-15 foot of two gauge wire and install a new power wire to the main fuse bus from battery and a new ground from battery and replace all the grounds in the engine bay, next you want to use the remaing wire to link all the existing gounds together to form a daisy chain. then you have a very effective gounding kit plus up the power supply stability. if you want to go future go to radio shack and buy you an electrolytic capicitor for about 50 cent and wire it in to the main relay bus and you can garuntee exact voltages on all your sensors...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Doing that this weekend
One of the many little mods that help.
whats the fastest youve ever been in a fwd? believe it or not after 100mph it realy helps stabilize you *** end.
as for cheap modifications. go to radio shack and buy 12-15 foot of two gauge wire and install a new power wire to the main fuse bus from battery and a new ground from battery and replace all the grounds in the engine bay, next you want to use the remaing wire to link all the existing gounds together to form a daisy chain. then you have a very effective gounding kit plus up the power supply stability. if you want to go future go to radio shack and buy you an electrolytic capicitor for about 50 cent and wire it in to the main relay bus and you can garuntee exact voltages on all your sensors...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Doing that this weekend
One of the many little mods that help.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syner-G-Racing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
whats the fastest youve ever been in a fwd? believe it or not after 100mph it realy helps stabilize you *** end.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
how much are you turning and manuvering your car after a 100mph?
150mph fastest I've been!
whats the fastest youve ever been in a fwd? believe it or not after 100mph it realy helps stabilize you *** end.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
how much are you turning and manuvering your car after a 100mph?
150mph fastest I've been!
This hypergrounding **** is just the latest ricer trend it seems, does anyone have PROOF that it does anything? Like.. dyno comparisons?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NA_B16a2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
how much are you turning and manuvering your car after a 100mph?
150mph fastest I've been!</TD></TR></TABLE>
obvioulsy not much...but it cuts out that fishy tail end when you slow down and go around the mild turns...cuts out some of the understeer.
how much are you turning and manuvering your car after a 100mph?
150mph fastest I've been!</TD></TR></TABLE>
obvioulsy not much...but it cuts out that fishy tail end when you slow down and go around the mild turns...cuts out some of the understeer.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syner-G-Racing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
obvioulsy not much...but it cuts out that fishy tail end when you slow down and go around the mild turns...cuts out some of the understeer.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've noticed the faster I go in the EH the less stable it is. There's not much aerodynamic downforce on the rear, so I'm unsure as to whyit would be more stable at high speeds unless you have a spoiler/wing of some sort. I actually started oversteering once going 85 on a freeway to freeway ramp. For those two seconds I thought about getting a ricer wing
The backend just seems to wander whereever it wanted.
obvioulsy not much...but it cuts out that fishy tail end when you slow down and go around the mild turns...cuts out some of the understeer.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've noticed the faster I go in the EH the less stable it is. There's not much aerodynamic downforce on the rear, so I'm unsure as to whyit would be more stable at high speeds unless you have a spoiler/wing of some sort. I actually started oversteering once going 85 on a freeway to freeway ramp. For those two seconds I thought about getting a ricer wing
The backend just seems to wander whereever it wanted.


