Bushings JDM/EDM SiR?
Which bushings can i use for a JDM SiR EF8? I'm interested to buy aftermarket bushings (energy suspension or similar).
I think, that USDM CRX Si parts don't fit.
Any suggestions?
Modified by orca at 2:57 PM 8/27/2004
I think, that USDM CRX Si parts don't fit.
Any suggestions?
Modified by orca at 2:57 PM 8/27/2004
The hyperflex CRX bushings from energy suspention will work fine. But keep in mind the reaction rods...or pushrods, or however you'd like to call them...they will not fit. The front crossmember is different.
Those will fit , no problem. I've been driving with ES poly-urethane bushings for 3 years now, no sign of wear and it just handles superb. I use the black ones, red seems al ittle too hard.
You need the masterkit + trailing arm bushings and perhaps the motor mount inserts. Everything fits except for:
-reaction rods (push rods whatever)
-stabilizer/swaybar front = D-serie
note you need not to remove the stock bushing's steel housing in the rear LCA
If you want I can make special reaction rods for you including nylon bushings to get rid of those crappy rubber bushings, you can adjust caster then as well
Wazzup with the EE8? Still going strong?
You need the masterkit + trailing arm bushings and perhaps the motor mount inserts. Everything fits except for:
-reaction rods (push rods whatever)
-stabilizer/swaybar front = D-serie
note you need not to remove the stock bushing's steel housing in the rear LCA
If you want I can make special reaction rods for you including nylon bushings to get rid of those crappy rubber bushings, you can adjust caster then as well
Wazzup with the EE8? Still going strong?
Thank you!
We'll try that
Special reaction rods sounds intersting! How much you need for them?
Well, i sold my EE8 and bought an EK4. Better wheelbase for track use and more racing parts available. But we're still working on a B20/TODA EE8 of a friend of mine
We'll try that

Special reaction rods sounds intersting! How much you need for them?
Well, i sold my EE8 and bought an EK4. Better wheelbase for track use and more racing parts available. But we're still working on a B20/TODA EE8 of a friend of mine
Depends , I am getting them fabricated at the tuner that tuned my fuel management. I'll let you know asap. Keep me informed about the B20, what fuel management are you running? I use OBD0 PW0+vafc+FPR but is far from ideal for B18c6 setup. Seems the engine is running lean from 6000+rpm, fixed it but the settings are dangerously high (4.25 bar , +14% correction). I need OBD1+crome SAFMS software and 310cc injectors
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by REX VT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Depends , I am getting them fabricated at the tuner that tuned my fuel management. I'll let you know asap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks!
We try it with stock ECU, chippet with B18C6 maps and VAFC. We still wait for the rods, so we ain't got no experience how it is to tune yet. If it don't work, we chance to OBD2 and use an apex'i power fc with datalogit.
Thanks!

We try it with stock ECU, chippet with B18C6 maps and VAFC. We still wait for the rods, so we ain't got no experience how it is to tune yet. If it don't work, we chance to OBD2 and use an apex'i power fc with datalogit.
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You should not use polyurethane for certain bushing applications - particularly the rear trailing arm bushings. For those, rubber is a better idea to keep things from binding up. Mugen makes rubber bushings that are supposed to be a bit harder than the OEM rubber, so you may want to look into them.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SETI20 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the reaction rods...or pushrods, or however you'd like to call them</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you talking about the radius rods that go from the control arm to the front crossmember?
Modified by Targa250R at 11:33 AM 8/27/2004
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SETI20 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the reaction rods...or pushrods, or however you'd like to call them</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you talking about the radius rods that go from the control arm to the front crossmember?
Modified by Targa250R at 11:33 AM 8/27/2004
I'm getting the Mugen trailing arm bushings put in my ride as we speak. Should have the car back late next week (bunch of parts going in) and can give you an update on how the car handles.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by REX VT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I need OBD1+crome SAFMS software and 310cc injectors</TD></TR></TABLE>
RTFM, crome works with PW0 just fine. I use it.
RTFM, crome works with PW0 just fine. I use it.
What about poly trailing arm bushings? I personally have old *** cracked ta bushings. Some people say don't get poly and some say poly are great. I dunno. The mystery goes on.....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eda6 hb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about poly trailing arm bushings?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Use Mugen or OEM Honda instead.
Use Mugen or OEM Honda instead.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by REX VT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't see why</TD></TR></TABLE>
Because the trailing arm bushing has to move on more than one axis as the suspension extends and compresses. Polyurethane does not allow enough movement in many cases, and can cause the suspension to bind. OEM or Mugen rubber bushings allow the suspension to move as it was intended.
Because the trailing arm bushing has to move on more than one axis as the suspension extends and compresses. Polyurethane does not allow enough movement in many cases, and can cause the suspension to bind. OEM or Mugen rubber bushings allow the suspension to move as it was intended.
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