Installed K&N drop in filter, 5th Gen now slower..????
Hey everyone, I got a K&N drop in filter to replace the cheapo Autozone $10 special that was in my bone stock 97' SH. I got out the g-tech and tested both horsepower and 0-60 times (not enough room for 1/4 mile at the time) before and after on the same stretch of road with the same g-tech settings within 5 mins. of each other. Here's what I got:
Autozone special:
Average HP: ~150 out of 3 runs
K&N:
Average HP: ~142 out of 4-5 runs
My 0-60's seemed to be about .2-.3 seconds higher with the new filter. I did some 1/4 miles later that night and they were slower than normal too. All of the horsepower runs were done in second gear.
I didn't know if it would help, but I tried pulling the ECU fuse for about 10 mins with no change in my results. Is there something I need to do or should I just return this thing?
Also, the old Autozone filter is definitely more restrictive. I pulled the top part off the airbox and blew through the airbox inlet with my mouth on both filters.. no jokes please
The K&N had very little resistance while the autozone did. So what's the deal? Anyone? Is it just that I need some other mods to make the new filter more effective??
Autozone special:
Average HP: ~150 out of 3 runs
K&N:
Average HP: ~142 out of 4-5 runs
My 0-60's seemed to be about .2-.3 seconds higher with the new filter. I did some 1/4 miles later that night and they were slower than normal too. All of the horsepower runs were done in second gear.
I didn't know if it would help, but I tried pulling the ECU fuse for about 10 mins with no change in my results. Is there something I need to do or should I just return this thing?
Also, the old Autozone filter is definitely more restrictive. I pulled the top part off the airbox and blew through the airbox inlet with my mouth on both filters.. no jokes please
The K&N had very little resistance while the autozone did. So what's the deal? Anyone? Is it just that I need some other mods to make the new filter more effective??
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Deckedlude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">G-tech isnt accurate. if its bone stock what are you so worried about?
does feel like it drives better? if so thats all that matters</TD></TR></TABLE>
wurd
does feel like it drives better? if so thats all that matters</TD></TR></TABLE>
wurd
No, it doesn't feel better, it feels slower. And yes, I know g-tech isn't precise, but it gives a good idea of whether something is working or not. The thing I'm "worried about" is that I just wasted $40 to make my prelude slower.
I was just looking for some advice or tips like "you have to pull the flux capacitor fuse"
, etc.. Oh well, I think I'll just return it.
I was just looking for some advice or tips like "you have to pull the flux capacitor fuse"
, etc.. Oh well, I think I'll just return it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bubs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No, it doesn't feel better, it feels slower. And yes, I know g-tech isn't precise, but it gives a good idea of whether something is working or not. The thing I'm "worried about" is that I just wasted $40 to make my prelude slower.
I was just looking for some advice or tips like "you have to pull the flux capacitor fuse"
, etc.. Oh well, I think I'll just return it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok.. first of all your cars bone stock.. with a k&n drop in filter. why would you waste your money buying the g-tech, my advise is sell it and getting a real intake system.
I was just looking for some advice or tips like "you have to pull the flux capacitor fuse"
, etc.. Oh well, I think I'll just return it.</TD></TR></TABLE>ok.. first of all your cars bone stock.. with a k&n drop in filter. why would you waste your money buying the g-tech, my advise is sell it and getting a real intake system.
The gtech is NOT inaccurate for controlled experiments such as this. It may not be real world results but the method of testing is consistent.
In other words, it is a viable method of testing a mod if it is tested correctly.
I got a gtech for 40.00 bucks off ebay and IMO is well worth the small cost.
FYI, paper filters allow more airflow then K&N's.
In other words, it is a viable method of testing a mod if it is tested correctly.
I got a gtech for 40.00 bucks off ebay and IMO is well worth the small cost.
FYI, paper filters allow more airflow then K&N's.
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THANK YOU Behan! I think a few of you that are bashing the g-tech have never used one before or if you did, you didn't use it correctly. If you can find a nice flat road with no dips or curves, the numbers seem extremely consistent. I bought a g-tech so that I could tell if mods are making a difference when I actually start doing them (don't have much money right now because I'm buying a house). Anyway, I think I'll take bb6's advice and return the filter. Maybe I'll take the money I get back and buy one of you haters a g-tech..
Thanks for the helps guys.
Thanks for the helps guys.
I have a G-tech and I feel it's worth the cost for experimenting. Just like you before I had my sr20det motorswap. I had a bone stock car (95 240sx se automatic). I used the gtech and then got a drop in kn filter for free. Installed the filter and the car felt slower. I did several back to back gtech runs on the same road and found out the butt dyno doesn't lie. My car was slower. I tried a few different things messing around the intake piping and found the car was faster with the stock dirty airfilter. I sold the kn filter.
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edcantu9
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Nov 27, 2011 05:44 PM




