I'm in the process of installing an ITR oil cooler on my '97 GSR. I removed my oil filter to expose the hollow filter mounting stud, which needs to be removed and replaced with the ITR oil cooler mounting screw. Unfortunately, the mounting stud does not have any wrench fittings on it. I was thinking of double nutting the stud, but it is most likely an M20 fine thread, which is not readily available. How else can this be removed?

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

plyers

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deepgreengsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">plyers</TD></TR></TABLE>

your ******* kidding me right?
wow, don't work on cars

right tool for the right job

I do belive that u can use a large allen key on the inside

 

doesn't it have a machined nut at the bottom of the threads like the oil cooler center bolt does? something like this... if you were holding the piece, w/ the threads for the oil filter facing left: ////[-] where the [-] is a nut? i pulled up a pic of a diagram for the oil cooler and its center bolt is like this, i was thinking maybe the bolt in the stock block (w/o oil cooler) is like this aswell, just shorter. i couldn't find a diagram of it though.

 

I too expected a hex nut at the base of the stud, but the stud appears to be just a double threaded pipe. I checked the inside for an allan fitting, but the pipe seemed to be smooth. If the motor was out of my car, I could use a pipe wrench while padding the threads. As it is, there isn't enough swing room for a wrench.

The center bolt for the oil cooler is torqued to 54 ft-lb; I assume that the oil filter stud has the same torque. I am considering using a large Easy Out, inserted into the center of the stud.

 

I recently installed a Type R oil cooler on my car; I just used a large vise grip to get it out. I know that ruins the threads but I am not putting it back on, it came out realtivley easy.

 

The screw extractor (Easy Out) worked for removing the oil filter stud. With the motor installed, clearance was no adequate to use Vise Grips or a pipe wrench. If you are undertaking an oil cooler install, removing the intake manifold makes the task much easier, especially for all of the water pipe replacement and connections.

Thanks for the help.

 

Bringing this back....

If you look in the picture below and see number 1 to the right of the factory oil cooler? This is the part that goes into the block that you supply coolant to the oil cooler. Was this already on the block itself or did you have to add this with the kit? If you had to add it, what was in place of this on the block itself??? Some sort of bypass or plug or something? I have a friend who is rebuilding their 97 GSR which doesn't have a factory oil cooler and is wondering what to put in that place because he is saying there is a metric threaded hole there. There is no factory part number listing? I guess if nothing else I'll just tell him to put a bolt and like a banjo washer or something in there. Thanks for any help.

 

oil filter tool with rubber hose. You will proably destroy the tool but its only like 6.00 at sears. Or you can use pipe wrench with a thick piece of rubber hose on the teeth.

Even plyers with a piece of rubber hose on both side woulld work. Just get a piece of fuel line and wrap the plyer's teeth..

 

do it right

 

There is a bolt plugging the hole for the coolant pasage into the block. The bolt was painted red on mine and is located within 2" of the upper right of the oil filter (viewed from the back). Your friend will need part #1 from the diagram. Don't improvise, as it is not expensive.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is a bolt plugging the hole for the coolant pasage into the block. The bolt was painted red on mine and is located within 2" of the upper right of the oil filter (viewed from the back). Your friend will need part #1 from the diagram. Don't improvise, as it is not expensive. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks. Well of course it's not expensive especially for me. BUT he is not putting a factory oil cooler on. That coolant passage is wide open on the block he has that he's rebuilding his engine with and was wandering if there was some sort of OEM part to block it off. There isn't anything listed other then part 1 and when you switch between a 94-95 and a 96-01 the picture doesn't change it just doesn't let you click on it. So sounds like a bolt and banjo washer will do. Thanks.