Symptoms:

1. Burns oil under load badly.
2. Burns oil bad on cold starts and has a lumpy idle until it gets warmed up. Sometimes it takes several tries to get it cranked.
3. Starting problem, lumpy idle, and massive oil burning on startup arised after I got my had back from a machine shop (that will never get my business again.

It's funny I haven't even looked at anything close really until I sat down to these pics. Looks to me like I have a valve that isn't seated properly

I'm thinking the machine shop didn't know what they were doing and I also expect that my valve guides are worn. When my timing belt slipped (not majorly, only nicked the valves and the car still ran) and I had my head work done they said that they were ok, maybe I should have known better (or I could be wrong).

Does this look like more than worn oil rings to you guys?

< well check the suspect valve in person tommorrow when he gets a chance.

 

Does the car barely idle, like almost dies out? My car will not idle for life, has a rough time at cold start also..

I dont think it burns oil, as the motor is pretty new. I am thinking maybe the machine shop fugged up my valve seals, etc..

 

The car idles badly on startup, sometimes dies, but after about a minute it clears up.

I'm pretty sure the valve is one culprit (unless the pic is tricking me).

 

My knowledge of engine internals isn't too extensive, but by those pictures, **** man...that is shitty. It's obvious like you stated that the rings are shot. This will of coarse cause blow by getting tons of oil past the rings into the combustion chamber, hence all the blackness. Notice in picture two of the block how the walls are black...definately the rings are toast. That valve that you pointed out is definately not seated properly.

is the work still under warranty with that **** *** shop? The only thing I can think of is show them the pictures regardless. Then rebuild the *****. Good chance to use some quality parts. Sorry I couldn't be of more help then basicly just repeating everthing that you said.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haleiwa-Brando &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My knowledge of engine internals isn't too extensive, but by those pictures, **** man...that is shitty. It's obvious like you stated that the rings are shot. This will of coarse cause blow by getting tons of oil past the rings into the combustion chamber, hence all the blackness. Notice in picture two of the block how the walls are black...definately the rings are toast. That valve that you pointed out is definately not seated properly.

is the work still under warranty with that **** *** shop? The only thing I can think of is show them the pictures regardless. Then rebuild the *****. Good chance to use some quality parts. Sorry I couldn't be of more help then basicly just repeating everthing that you said. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not going to even attempt to fool with the shop. Too much time and headache.

I'll probably just send the head to Brad at RLZ/Hondaraceengines.com or some other reputable shop and just let them have at it.

Same with the block.

Another thing I noticed, the second cylinder from the right matches up to the cylinder with the crap looking valve (I think, if I'm looking at it right the head would have to be flipped around). You can really see the extra gunk in that cylinder. That stuff isn't hard and dry either, you can scrape it off with your hand.

 

Try installing spark plugs, turning head upside down on work bench and filling combustion chambers with a thin fluid like WD-40. If fluid leaks past valves than valves are not seated properly.

Valve seals are easy to screw up. Look at the backs of the valves and the valve stems through the ports for oil build-up.

Rings may be shot if you have a lot of miles, didn't break motor in properly, run the motor very rich, and/or have spent lots of time at high RPM. IMHO, oil in the R may run too hot and crap out.

Good luck,
John

 

Is there a way to test if the valve isnt seated properly without taking off the head?

 

compression/leak down test

 

This is basically the same exact problem that I am going through, minus the valve issue. I just sent my head to Brad @ HeadGames in NJ. Hopefully I will be geting it back next week. I hope that he will find my oil burning issue in the head and not the block.