d16a6 Timing Help! , running like crap!!! (searched)
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,285
Likes: 0
From: USA
d16a6 Timing Help! , running like crap!!! (searched)
Edit: #3 cylinder no compression, no hesitation when plug wire is pulled.
can someone please help with my timing issues
OK, first off, did a full search , didn't seem to find the right information And being broke as a joke, i really need to get this car running, so any help would be much appreciated
I just had my D16a6 resurfaced .012 because it was pretty off, replaced head gasket and got a new timing belt.
I must have done the timing over about 15 times! and i still cant get it to run correctly
my steps---anyone see Bad steps?......
- Take Crank pulley off (with alternator belt of course)
- Valve Cover and upper Belt cover
- Take off lower belt cover
- loosen Belt tensioner...... But i didn't bother to take off the Tension spring when i took the belt off and put it back on ... would this make a diference at all?????
- Take belt off
- Align Crank with White mark on pulley to lines on lower cover |||______(|)
- turn Cam to TDC with UP and horizontal lines aligned with head surface (with valve cover off)
- Put Belt back on W/out letting the Crank turn when sliding teeth over CRANK... because this has caused the crank to turn for me a good amount of times.
-tighten tensioner
- Put everything back together.. reverse....
I'm getting no codes
Holy shi*.... The car is idling Low Then stalls, and i'm not sure if the timing is off, Somehow the ignition timing is off, or something else is wrong. When i drive it in first, it boggs like crazy as if it has 20 horses then gradually moves.
This D16a6 i had just put into the car and the Throttle cable bracket had to be extended, so i tried to tigthen it to open the throttle a bit to keep it running, but i would think that it should idle correctly completely closed right???.... Grr...
I really dont know much about ignition timing..... and this is the first time i have attempted doing timing myself. Could the ignition timing be off??>........and how would it change if i might have changed it by accident?
Is counter clockwise correct to turn the Cam? and should i have the distributor off
I should be using the white mark on the Crank right???.. not the 3 marks to the left of it?.
I really dont want to spend the money to have a shop time it correctly, but if i have to i will, just sucks when your broke
Thanks.......timing sucks
Modified by OptimusPrimeX at 6:58 PM 8/20/2004
Modified by OptimusPrimeX at 8:09 PM 10/22/2004
can someone please help with my timing issues
OK, first off, did a full search , didn't seem to find the right information And being broke as a joke, i really need to get this car running, so any help would be much appreciated
I just had my D16a6 resurfaced .012 because it was pretty off, replaced head gasket and got a new timing belt.
I must have done the timing over about 15 times! and i still cant get it to run correctly
my steps---anyone see Bad steps?......
- Take Crank pulley off (with alternator belt of course)
- Valve Cover and upper Belt cover
- Take off lower belt cover
- loosen Belt tensioner...... But i didn't bother to take off the Tension spring when i took the belt off and put it back on ... would this make a diference at all?????
- Take belt off
- Align Crank with White mark on pulley to lines on lower cover |||______(|)
- turn Cam to TDC with UP and horizontal lines aligned with head surface (with valve cover off)
- Put Belt back on W/out letting the Crank turn when sliding teeth over CRANK... because this has caused the crank to turn for me a good amount of times.
-tighten tensioner
- Put everything back together.. reverse....
I'm getting no codes
Holy shi*.... The car is idling Low Then stalls, and i'm not sure if the timing is off, Somehow the ignition timing is off, or something else is wrong. When i drive it in first, it boggs like crazy as if it has 20 horses then gradually moves.
This D16a6 i had just put into the car and the Throttle cable bracket had to be extended, so i tried to tigthen it to open the throttle a bit to keep it running, but i would think that it should idle correctly completely closed right???.... Grr...
I really dont know much about ignition timing..... and this is the first time i have attempted doing timing myself. Could the ignition timing be off??>........and how would it change if i might have changed it by accident?
Is counter clockwise correct to turn the Cam? and should i have the distributor off
I should be using the white mark on the Crank right???.. not the 3 marks to the left of it?.
I really dont want to spend the money to have a shop time it correctly, but if i have to i will, just sucks when your broke
Thanks.......timing sucks
Modified by OptimusPrimeX at 6:58 PM 8/20/2004
Modified by OptimusPrimeX at 8:09 PM 10/22/2004
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 3,691
Likes: 1
From: WI
Re: d16a6 Timing Help! , running like crap!!! (OptimusPrimeX)
you missed a step (not sure if this will help you):
Before you tighten the tensioner back up, you must rotate the belt counterclockwise at least three teeth.
Before you tighten the tensioner back up, you must rotate the belt counterclockwise at least three teeth.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,285
Likes: 0
From: USA
Re: d16a6 Timing Help! , running like crap!!! (maztur)
OK i'll try that...
but.,,,,
If i Rotate the belt 3 teeth.... using the Crank....... Will it matter if the White line on the Crank pulley no longer matches up ?..... because turning it i will assume it wont be, but since its on the Cam it shouldn't matter??>...
thanks
but.,,,,
If i Rotate the belt 3 teeth.... using the Crank....... Will it matter if the White line on the Crank pulley no longer matches up ?..... because turning it i will assume it wont be, but since its on the Cam it shouldn't matter??>...
thanks
Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 5,272
Likes: 0
From: broke in the bay area, CA
Re: d16a6 Timing Help! , running like crap!!! (OptimusPrimeX)
Yes, you use the single mark on the crank, not the three together (that's for ignition)
Line it up via the pointers on the belt cover. There's two pointers, then a single one to line up between the two.
You can move the crank without it connected to the cam, so dont worry about that, just dont move it too much to where it can touch valves. Just slap the belt on the bottom, connect the cover then crank pulley. Line up the crank timing to tdc, line up the cam to tdc, put belt on, and tighten.
Also, on d16a6's there's a plastic pointer on the cam gear cover BEHIND the cam gear. You'll notice on your d16a6 stock cam pulley there's a line (I believe around the 7 or 8 o'clock position) that you line up with the line on the cam gear cover behind the cam gear. If my digi cam was working, I would take a pic. So do that, and then once you get it running, you need to set the ignition timing (it shouldn't be dying though)
Line it up via the pointers on the belt cover. There's two pointers, then a single one to line up between the two.
You can move the crank without it connected to the cam, so dont worry about that, just dont move it too much to where it can touch valves. Just slap the belt on the bottom, connect the cover then crank pulley. Line up the crank timing to tdc, line up the cam to tdc, put belt on, and tighten.
Also, on d16a6's there's a plastic pointer on the cam gear cover BEHIND the cam gear. You'll notice on your d16a6 stock cam pulley there's a line (I believe around the 7 or 8 o'clock position) that you line up with the line on the cam gear cover behind the cam gear. If my digi cam was working, I would take a pic. So do that, and then once you get it running, you need to set the ignition timing (it shouldn't be dying though)
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 392
Likes: 0
From: Lower Hudson Valley, NY
Re: d16a6 Timing Help! , running like crap!!! (sporkcrx)
Yes.
You get the cam marks to look like this:
Then if you clean up the timing gear and engine block real good,
You'll see this arrow:
You get the cam marks to look like this:
Then if you clean up the timing gear and engine block real good,
You'll see this arrow:
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,285
Likes: 0
From: USA
Re: d16a6 Timing Help! , running like crap!!! (OptimusPrimeX)
WOW an arrow 
I had no idea that was there, makes things easier. Simple green --> 
Thanks allot for the help guys, i'll be doing it again tomorrow morning, hopefully everything will go fine this time.
One more question, ... is ignition timing absolutely necessary most of the time?
I had no idea that was there, makes things easier. Simple green --> Thanks allot for the help guys, i'll be doing it again tomorrow morning, hopefully everything will go fine this time.
One more question, ... is ignition timing absolutely necessary most of the time?
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,285
Likes: 0
From: USA
Re: d16a6 Timing Help! , running like crap!!! (senpai)
BUMP.....
well my car has been sitting because the timing still wasn't right, but i have reason to believe that it's off one tooth.
If i mark where i had the timing belt, and try moving it one tooth advanced or retarded, would that most likely fix this timing issue. I fugure if its a tooth off, then i can try moving it one forward, and if that doesn't work, one back from the origional spot.?? The marks ligned up perfectly, but maybe because the head had to be straightned .012, i might have to compensate?
Its running rich rich rich. I'm getting a timing light this week for the ignition timing, but i wouldn't think it would run that rich and poorly just from the ignition timing being off? I tried messing turning the distributor while the car was running to see if it ran better, and it didn't seem to make a diferenct, would that work anyway? Its running so poorly its not even drivable, or at least for more than putting the car on the right side for the street cleaner. It definitely stalls when the car is warmed up, and sounds like a musle car with its inconsistant idle.
well my car has been sitting because the timing still wasn't right, but i have reason to believe that it's off one tooth.
If i mark where i had the timing belt, and try moving it one tooth advanced or retarded, would that most likely fix this timing issue. I fugure if its a tooth off, then i can try moving it one forward, and if that doesn't work, one back from the origional spot.?? The marks ligned up perfectly, but maybe because the head had to be straightned .012, i might have to compensate?
Its running rich rich rich. I'm getting a timing light this week for the ignition timing, but i wouldn't think it would run that rich and poorly just from the ignition timing being off? I tried messing turning the distributor while the car was running to see if it ran better, and it didn't seem to make a diferenct, would that work anyway? Its running so poorly its not even drivable, or at least for more than putting the car on the right side for the street cleaner. It definitely stalls when the car is warmed up, and sounds like a musle car with its inconsistant idle.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 9,051
Likes: 1
From: Bay Area, CA
you HAVE TO GET AN ADJUSTABLE CAM GEAR
I cant believe no one pointed this out
when you remove material from the head or block,
you are moving the cam physically downward,
the camgears position is different now, and your cam timing is now off.
there is a formula as to exactly how much you need to advance or retard it for how much material you removed, but sorry I dont know it off hand.
someone else should be able to tell you, or you can find it in a search.
Rotating it a tooth isnt going to work, because that advances/retards its a HUGE ammount
you will have to redo your ignition timing also once you get the cam timing right.
good luck!
(btw you probly have higher compression now
)
I cant believe no one pointed this out
when you remove material from the head or block,
you are moving the cam physically downward,
the camgears position is different now, and your cam timing is now off.
there is a formula as to exactly how much you need to advance or retard it for how much material you removed, but sorry I dont know it off hand.
someone else should be able to tell you, or you can find it in a search.
Rotating it a tooth isnt going to work, because that advances/retards its a HUGE ammount
you will have to redo your ignition timing also once you get the cam timing right.
good luck!
(btw you probly have higher compression now
)
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 904
Likes: 0
From: Oak Ridge, TN, USA
You are off by one tooth. Don't let anyone tell you different. I just did the same thing and had the low idle and no power thing. Double check your setting and I bet you can move it 1 tooth and everything will be just fine. If you don't know which way to move it put a timing light on it before you take things apart and see if the timing is retaded (light flashed between the I and III marks) or advanced (light flashes before the III mark)
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,285
Likes: 0
From: USA
Re: (Tad)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you HAVE TO GET AN ADJUSTABLE CAM GEAR
I cant believe no one pointed this out
when you remove material from the head or block,
you are moving the cam physically downward,
the camgears position is different now, and your cam timing is now off.
there is a formula as to exactly how much you need to advance or retard it for how much material you removed, but sorry I dont know it off hand.
someone else should be able to tell you, or you can find it in a search.
Rotating it a tooth isnt going to work, because that advances/retards its a HUGE ammount
you will have to redo your ignition timing also once you get the cam timing right.
good luck!
(btw you probly have higher compression now )</TD></TR></TABLE>
Resurfaced = .012 from head
normal surface= .004
ok so allot of material was taken off.... exactly .012... and i think the normal resurface is .004 but the head was so badly warped they had to shave it that much. Sooooo anyone else want to chime in on the cam gear thing?...
Over the week i took everything apart and timed it again, everything matched up EXACTLY! Crank and Cam... Ignition still isn't perfect, but its still spitting so much fuel that i can smell it from the exhause allot, and there's white smoke when i hit the throttle. I'm also getting oil on my Spark plugs... hm.. it wouldn't be fuel would it?....
Soo from what i did, the car is running somewhat better now, but i can tell its just not right. Before i had to turn the throttle cable all the way up to prevent it from stalling, now its at its most closed position, and its staying on. But still runs very rough, and is not your normal idle sound. Its an ebay exhaust (Megan racing) and it use to be completely silent (almost) at idle And for another clue, if i was missing a screw from teh intake manifold, would that cause it to run really rough?.. i wouldn't think so (i found the same screw on the ground, not sure if it was an extra)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Super Chicken »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You are off by one tooth. Don't let anyone tell you different. I just did the same thing and had the low idle and no power thing. Double check your setting and I bet you can move it 1 tooth and everything will be just fine. If you don't know which way to move it put a timing light on it before you take things apart and see if the timing is retaded (light flashed between the I and III marks) or advanced (light flashes before the III mark)</TD></TR></TABLE>
I retimed it, and now the idle isn't as low, and it stays on when i start it. I can take pictures tomorrow if that would help. The Cam is ligned perfectly with the marks, and so is the Crank. So i guess I should use the timing light and see how far off it is
any suggestions... i'ms getting sick of this ****...........
oh and no codes .. but the check engine light came on once when i let it run for 5 mins...
Modified by OptimusPrimeX at 11:58 PM 10/13/2004
I cant believe no one pointed this out
when you remove material from the head or block,
you are moving the cam physically downward,
the camgears position is different now, and your cam timing is now off.
there is a formula as to exactly how much you need to advance or retard it for how much material you removed, but sorry I dont know it off hand.
someone else should be able to tell you, or you can find it in a search.
Rotating it a tooth isnt going to work, because that advances/retards its a HUGE ammount
you will have to redo your ignition timing also once you get the cam timing right.
good luck!
(btw you probly have higher compression now
)</TD></TR></TABLE>Resurfaced = .012 from head
normal surface= .004
ok so allot of material was taken off.... exactly .012... and i think the normal resurface is .004 but the head was so badly warped they had to shave it that much. Sooooo anyone else want to chime in on the cam gear thing?...
Over the week i took everything apart and timed it again, everything matched up EXACTLY! Crank and Cam... Ignition still isn't perfect, but its still spitting so much fuel that i can smell it from the exhause allot, and there's white smoke when i hit the throttle. I'm also getting oil on my Spark plugs... hm.. it wouldn't be fuel would it?....
Soo from what i did, the car is running somewhat better now, but i can tell its just not right. Before i had to turn the throttle cable all the way up to prevent it from stalling, now its at its most closed position, and its staying on. But still runs very rough, and is not your normal idle sound. Its an ebay exhaust (Megan racing) and it use to be completely silent (almost) at idle And for another clue, if i was missing a screw from teh intake manifold, would that cause it to run really rough?.. i wouldn't think so (i found the same screw on the ground, not sure if it was an extra)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Super Chicken »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You are off by one tooth. Don't let anyone tell you different. I just did the same thing and had the low idle and no power thing. Double check your setting and I bet you can move it 1 tooth and everything will be just fine. If you don't know which way to move it put a timing light on it before you take things apart and see if the timing is retaded (light flashed between the I and III marks) or advanced (light flashes before the III mark)</TD></TR></TABLE>
I retimed it, and now the idle isn't as low, and it stays on when i start it. I can take pictures tomorrow if that would help. The Cam is ligned perfectly with the marks, and so is the Crank. So i guess I should use the timing light and see how far off it is
any suggestions... i'ms getting sick of this ****...........
oh and no codes .. but the check engine light came on once when i let it run for 5 mins...
Modified by OptimusPrimeX at 11:58 PM 10/13/2004
Keyboard Humorist
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 9,814
Likes: 11
From: Granada Hills, Ca, USA
About the adjustable cam gear - I think you only need that if your putting the timing belt on and can't get it to line up correctly.
After you put your belt on, rotated the crank counterclockwise so the belt moved 3 teeth on the cam gear, and then tightened up the tensioner - did you manually rotated the crank a few times to make sure it all lined up correctly still? It's a lot easier to do that then to put it all back together and then try it, take it all apart, and then check the marks.
Anyway, check your spark plugs and make sure they haven't fouled with all the trying you have been doing with the engine.
After you put your belt on, rotated the crank counterclockwise so the belt moved 3 teeth on the cam gear, and then tightened up the tensioner - did you manually rotated the crank a few times to make sure it all lined up correctly still? It's a lot easier to do that then to put it all back together and then try it, take it all apart, and then check the marks.
Anyway, check your spark plugs and make sure they haven't fouled with all the trying you have been doing with the engine.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,285
Likes: 0
From: USA
Re: (4drEF)
Well , after i tightened everything up and put everything back together, i turned the car on, let it run, then checked the marks. They were lined up perfectly when i turned the crank to TDC, so i dont think thats the problem?.. I didn't turn the Belt 3 teeth, but what i did was give even slack on both sides of the belt, when i lined everything up, then tightened so that the tensioner wouldn't move the crank, and it worked. But if i'm moving the belt 3 teeth with the crank, wouldn't that make the crank off TDC?..
Keyboard Humorist
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 9,814
Likes: 11
From: Granada Hills, Ca, USA
Re: d16a6 Timing Help! , running like crap!!! (OptimusPrimeX)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OptimusPrimeX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well , after i tightened everything up and put everything back together, i turned the car on, let it run, then checked the marks. They were lined up perfectly when i turned the crank to TDC, so i dont think thats the problem?.. I didn't turn the Belt 3 teeth, but what i did was give even slack on both sides of the belt, when i lined everything up, then tightened so that the tensioner wouldn't move the crank, and it worked. But if i'm moving the belt 3 teeth with the crank, wouldn't that make the crank off TDC?..</TD></TR></TABLE>
What do you mean you gave it even slack?
You are supposed to turn the crank counter-clockwise ONLY so that the timing belt moves 3 teeth on the cam gear. Then tighten the tensioner up... do not manually <U>create</U> slack on the frontside (frontside = toward front of the car) of the belt at all. If you do make slack you run the risk of the belt jumping around. It won't be right.
What do you mean you gave it even slack?
You are supposed to turn the crank counter-clockwise ONLY so that the timing belt moves 3 teeth on the cam gear. Then tighten the tensioner up... do not manually <U>create</U> slack on the frontside (frontside = toward front of the car) of the belt at all. If you do make slack you run the risk of the belt jumping around. It won't be right.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,430
Likes: 0
From: Chicago burbs, IL, USA
Re: d16a6 Timing Help! , running like crap!!! (4drEF)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4drEF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What do you mean you gave it even slack?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think he meant he made sure both sides of the cam had the same amount of play...at least that's what I am assuming...but everyone knows what happens when you assume
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think he meant he made sure both sides of the cam had the same amount of play...at least that's what I am assuming...but everyone knows what happens when you assume
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,285
Likes: 0
From: USA
Re: d16a6 Timing Help! , running like crap!!! (SuperSteve737)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuperSteve737 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think he meant he made sure both sides of the cam had the same amount of play...at least that's what I am assuming...but everyone knows what happens when you assume</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah thats what i meant, i might try re-timing it today, and checking to see if all the IM bolts are there (thought one came off somehow)....... and post back up after. I really dont think i have the timing wrong though in any case as i have said. Both marks line up PERFECTLY,, .... And doing it so many times, if its off one tooth, the cam and the crank will be drastically off? right.? I dont think there is any way it could "look" correct and not be?.. I'm just worried about the Rich Rich condition and white smoke.....
yeah thats what i meant, i might try re-timing it today, and checking to see if all the IM bolts are there (thought one came off somehow)....... and post back up after. I really dont think i have the timing wrong though in any case as i have said. Both marks line up PERFECTLY,, .... And doing it so many times, if its off one tooth, the cam and the crank will be drastically off? right.? I dont think there is any way it could "look" correct and not be?.. I'm just worried about the Rich Rich condition and white smoke.....
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 8,508
Likes: 2
From: everyone has their price, NJ, USA
Re: d16a6 Timing Help! , running like crap!!! (OptimusPrimeX)
someone please help my boy
i saw it idling and it idles at a constant 1k. when he hits the throttle some white smoke comes out with a splash of black. i thought the white was because it was cold out but im not sure. it still sounds like a subaru with an exhaust.
does anyone have a picture of the spark plug wire order on the distributor cap? maybe the problem is as simple as this or might need a "street tune"
i saw it idling and it idles at a constant 1k. when he hits the throttle some white smoke comes out with a splash of black. i thought the white was because it was cold out but im not sure. it still sounds like a subaru with an exhaust.
does anyone have a picture of the spark plug wire order on the distributor cap? maybe the problem is as simple as this or might need a "street tune"
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 667
Likes: 1
From: st. paul, mn, usa
Re: d16a6 Timing Help! , running like crap!!! (OptimusPrimeX)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OptimusPrimeX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just had my D16a6 resurfaced .012 because it was pretty off, replaced head gasket and got a new timing belt.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thenick »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when he hits the throttle some white smoke comes out with a splash of black.</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you there is white smoke coming out i would have to say that you installed the headgasket wrong or the head isnt as flat as you thought. also your block might be warped too.
also your distributor might be 180 degrees off. it happened to me once and sounded just like yours. make sure the camgear is at tdc. then take your distributor cap off and make sure the rotor is pointing at the #1 cylinder sparkplug wire.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thenick »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when he hits the throttle some white smoke comes out with a splash of black.</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you there is white smoke coming out i would have to say that you installed the headgasket wrong or the head isnt as flat as you thought. also your block might be warped too.
also your distributor might be 180 degrees off. it happened to me once and sounded just like yours. make sure the camgear is at tdc. then take your distributor cap off and make sure the rotor is pointing at the #1 cylinder sparkplug wire.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: TN, USA
Re: d16a6 Timing Help! , running like crap!!! (peiku)
When ever you have your head milled it will retard you cam timing...to get it "perfect" again you will need an adjustable cam gear....
One step that you are missing is setting your ignition timing with a timing light....
Don't tell me you forgot!
One step that you are missing is setting your ignition timing with a timing light....
Don't tell me you forgot!
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,285
Likes: 0
From: USA
Re: d16a6 Timing Help! , running like crap!!! (peiku)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by peiku »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
also your distributor might be 180 degrees off. it happened to me once and sounded just like yours. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I didn't think it could be 180 off, the teeth where the distributor fit in, wont let you turn it 180?. am i correct?. i've tried it and the slots are specifically shaped so you cant do that. or at least i thought.
Ok well. i did a compression test yesterday, and the #3 cylinder is dead. I had a friend watch the needle as i cranked the car, and we came to the conclusion that #3 was dead, and it didn't get a reading as well. We also pulled the plug while it was running and no hesitation. : \
I'm just wondering, since i got the car running perfect a while ago when i redid the timing, i didn't tighten it correctly and it skipped a few teeth when i gunned it, then i repaired it on the spot and drove it back and it never ran right since.. I'm thinking that i might have cracked etc. a Valve. Do you guys think that would be the cause of the dead cylinder?. Only other things could be somewhere in the sleeve/blcok or piston rings. But because of the skipping tooth, it would leade me to believe a valve. And since its running extremely rich, i'm also thinking that the dead cylinder might be the cause of the "unused" fuel??>.... I'm surprised nobody sead dead cylinder, but then again i didn't do a compression test before. And that would explain why its running like a lawnmower or a WRX with exhaust. You guys think there is any way to tell between a bad ring or valve?.... This is really starting to suck. I'm not ready to tear it down again, actually i have to sell the damn thing now because i need the money . Thanks for everyon'es help regardless
By the way, now i have to sell it, you guys think 1,200 is unreasonable for a D16a6 in need of repair, teg seats, teg cluster, virtually no rust considering the year, stock silver, new tires etc. ?...
also your distributor might be 180 degrees off. it happened to me once and sounded just like yours. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I didn't think it could be 180 off, the teeth where the distributor fit in, wont let you turn it 180?. am i correct?. i've tried it and the slots are specifically shaped so you cant do that. or at least i thought.
Ok well. i did a compression test yesterday, and the #3 cylinder is dead. I had a friend watch the needle as i cranked the car, and we came to the conclusion that #3 was dead, and it didn't get a reading as well. We also pulled the plug while it was running and no hesitation. : \
I'm just wondering, since i got the car running perfect a while ago when i redid the timing, i didn't tighten it correctly and it skipped a few teeth when i gunned it, then i repaired it on the spot and drove it back and it never ran right since.. I'm thinking that i might have cracked etc. a Valve. Do you guys think that would be the cause of the dead cylinder?. Only other things could be somewhere in the sleeve/blcok or piston rings. But because of the skipping tooth, it would leade me to believe a valve. And since its running extremely rich, i'm also thinking that the dead cylinder might be the cause of the "unused" fuel??>.... I'm surprised nobody sead dead cylinder, but then again i didn't do a compression test before. And that would explain why its running like a lawnmower or a WRX with exhaust. You guys think there is any way to tell between a bad ring or valve?.... This is really starting to suck. I'm not ready to tear it down again, actually i have to sell the damn thing now because i need the money . Thanks for everyon'es help regardless
By the way, now i have to sell it, you guys think 1,200 is unreasonable for a D16a6 in need of repair, teg seats, teg cluster, virtually no rust considering the year, stock silver, new tires etc. ?...
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,095
Likes: 0
From: camden, de, usa
Re: d16a6 Timing Help! , running like crap!!! (OptimusPrimeX)
cam timing is off. Take off valve cover and loosen tension and slide belt off pulled. Do this after you line up tdc with crank pulled. Move the cam till teh lines are even with cylinder head. Bam you should be at tDC. I had the same problem. After the 3rd try i finally got it. Just take your time and if at first you dont succeed try try again.
DEF
DEF
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,285
Likes: 0
From: USA
Re: d16a6 Timing Help! , running like crap!!! (deftones0817)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deftones0817 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cam timing is off. Take off valve cover and loosen tension and slide belt off pulled. Do this after you line up tdc with crank pulled. Move the cam till teh lines are even with cylinder head. Bam you should be at tDC. I had the same problem. After the 3rd try i finally got it. Just take your time and if at first you dont succeed try try again.
DEF</TD></TR></TABLE>
you had the same problem as in ?.. The Wrx with exhaust sound? i appreciate the help very much, just wanted to see what same problem you had. Cause now it seems that i'm getting no compression from teh #3 clylinder. Would cam timing cause something like this?...hm.... i wouldn;t think so.....did you read the above post my last one?..
thanks
DEF</TD></TR></TABLE>
you had the same problem as in ?.. The Wrx with exhaust sound? i appreciate the help very much, just wanted to see what same problem you had. Cause now it seems that i'm getting no compression from teh #3 clylinder. Would cam timing cause something like this?...hm.... i wouldn;t think so.....did you read the above post my last one?..
thanks