Well, I finally found out that the hard top is good enough to run 12.0 in the 1/4 mile vs 14.0 with soft top. This changes my laziness about working to get all the mods onto the s2000. I've had a toda header, AEM ecu, Jenvey ITBs and some other stuff for this car and was dissappointed I couldn;t run under 14.0 in our last local Drag even. So now I'm motivated again and want to get this stuff in and find a hardtop.

If I had a goal for high 12's on street tire for this heavy *** s2000, what do you think ? well I have a milled head as well too so I'll prolly slap that in.

Also, anyone have a lead on a Spa yellow hard top or evne a black top let me know ... need one cheap.

I was also told that if I get a bunch of people to write to NHRA that our s2k bar is good enough from the factory, they would let us run sub 14.0 times. Apparently something similar happened to the Viper guys ... anyone interested in joining me ? LOL

I can keep people updated with dyno progress if anyone intersted ... I'm curious with Vapor's manifold too when thats ready !!! should be badass.

Greg

 

That's cool that you have goals and high hopes for you and your car, but, the hard top probably isn't even enough advantage to shave off 2 seconds of a lap time, let alone one in 1320 feet.

Without digging up the page, the drivers of MotorTrend and Car and Driver tested this car to do a stand 1/4 in under 14 seconds, stock. There is more to decreasing your ET's than just doing ridiculous mods with expensive parts. No matter what the type of racing/competition is, a good driver will ALWAYS make up for the lack of power, suspension, etc., that the car is missing. In other words, a car that you may drive to a 13.5 in the 1/4 mile, someone else may be able to drive to a 13.0.

And I hardly think that 2800lbs is heavy for this car. Considering it's a tube chassis, Front engine, RWD, independant front/rear suspension, etc., etc., etc., Honda did pretty well with this vehicles power to weight ratio.

none the less...good luck in your quest!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ScreaminTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's cool that you have goals and high hopes for you and your car, but, the hard top probably isn't even enough advantage to shave off 2 seconds of a lap time, let alone one in 1320 feet. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Err, I think he means that with the hard top on, since his modded car is easily capable of running under 14 secs, he will be allowed to use the full potential of his modifications and stay within the rules of the strips he visits.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Without digging up the page, the drivers of MotorTrend and Car and Driver tested this car to do a stand 1/4 in under 14 seconds, stock. There is more to decreasing your ET's than just doing ridiculous mods with expensive parts. No matter what the type of racing/competition is, a good driver will ALWAYS make up for the lack of power, suspension, etc., that the car is missing. In other words, a car that you may drive to a 13.5 in the 1/4 mile, someone else may be able to drive to a 13.0.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think the average driving enthusiast will be able to get near max out of their car within 4-5 runs. Its only pressing the throttle and changing up gear!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And I hardly think that 2800lbs is heavy for this car. Considering it's a tube chassis, Front engine, RWD, independant front/rear suspension, etc., etc., etc., Honda did pretty well with this vehicles power to weight ratio.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Tube chassis? I dont get it? Its definitely not a ladder frame chassis if thats what you mean?
I reckon if you remove all luxury items (airbags, sound deadening, A/C, one of the mufflers, passenger seat etc), you'll easy get 100kg's off.

 

so... time for a diet:
- ditch any aftermarket swaybar you have for the car up front, put back on the stock front swaybar if needed. remove the rear (great for road racing, but causes a bit more rotation in autocross than I prefer)
- remove xbrace/stb if you have them. every little pound adds up!
- single exhaust out the back. have someone make a straight pipe for you, maybe even put a resonator out the side of it. put a muffler on there if you want.


what are the rules about stripping the interior or soft top out? if you put the hard top on, can you remove the soft top and motor out? that would be -45lbs, but ~+38 for the top, and a few for the mounting kit if needed. you can even shed a few...very few pounds off the hard top.

what about brake mods? you can get the brakezone's brake kit and shave off ~9lbs. per corner up front (caliper weight, not rotor weight).

fluids all sound? what about valve adjustment? had that done lately, or at all? might need some refinement. heck, anything and everything just adds up to squeeze out a tenth or two.

 

glad u decided to keep the s2k...im dyin to see what kind of power u get out of your setup...

like u im waiting to see what vapor puts donw w/ his CF intake manifold...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ScreaminTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's cool that you have goals and high hopes for you and your car, but, the hard top probably isn't even enough advantage to shave off 2 seconds of a lap time, let alone one in 1320 feet.
</TD></TR></TABLE>


He's talking about actually being allowed to run a 12. For convertables at the track to run under a 14 you need a cage. with a hardtop you can run 12's

 

good luck man

 

- uh... good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Thermodynamic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


He's talking about actually being allowed to run a 12. For convertables at the track to run under a 14 you need a cage. with a hardtop you can run 12's</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the clarification on that.

Does that vary from track-to-track? I know the track around here requires a helmet at 13.99 or faster and a roll bar at faster than 11.99. Their rule for convertables, T-tops, and sun/moonroofs is that they must be closed and those drivers must wear helmets always.

 

thanks guys for clearing it up. yeah, I only have th eexhaust on the car right now, i've hit a 14.0 letting off a good 60ish feet from the 1320 mark.

If I install the Toda header, ITBs, EMS, milled stock head and thinner head gasket, and 4.77 gears, I'm hoping to knock high 12's on street tires. I'm usually very realistic about my goals, especially given my race car CRX and street class CRX. Now the S2000 shouldn't be too far off, I just hate the weight associated with the S2k.

The Comp4 / class A typical e/t is around mid to high 13's on street tires for any 4 cylinder NA motor with no motor swap int he chassis, so no Civics with GSR motors, etc. Biggest competition in this class is the ITR. I think evne with the extra weight of the S2k over the ITR it can take it down with flying colors. Even the new K-series RSXs too, the S2K motor has more on it.


Greg

 

greg, can you expand on the class rules?

 

good luck greg!

fyi, got a quick pic up of the CTAE manifold

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=965842

 

just my opinion...but on street tires you're never going to get to 12 n/a. And if you go with drag radials and hook up...it's tough on the drivetrain.

If you really want to go 12's you're going to have to shed at least 500 pounds, boost or nos your car and lots of other stuff.

I've always thought a 9 bolt hooked to an worked over powerglide might make 11's but that would take at least 350 plus rwhp with a very much lightened S.
Good Luck

fltsfshr

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ScreaminTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Does that vary from track-to-track? I know the track around here requires a helmet at 13.99 or faster and a roll bar at faster than 11.99. Their rule for convertables, T-tops, and sun/moonroofs is that they must be closed and those drivers must wear helmets always. </TD></TR></TABLE>


I don't know if it varies from track to track but at Maple Grove (where I go all the time) its 13.99 or faster you need a helmet, for 11.99 or quicker you need a cage and scattershield. For convertables and t-tops you need a cage for 13.99 or faster...

Also, all windows and sunroof's must be closed to go down the track. sunroofs/moonroof's don't matter and there's no specific rules for them besides they have to be closed

 

Theres plenty of weight to be shaved off this car:

-Titnanium single exhaust = ~45 lbs over stock
-Spare tire and jack = ~ 25 lbs
-Aftermarket intake = ~ 5 lbs
-Passenger seat = 30 lbs ??
-Softtop-Hardtop conversion (removing softop and motor) i heard saves about 40 lbs.

Added up, thats about 145 lbs. of weight savings if my estimations are correct. You also still maintain good daily driveability (except you can't carry any chicks around).

When i went to get my car corner balanced with a half tank of gas, the only mods i had on my car were an AEM intake and Tein RA coilovers and it weighed in at 2745 lbs. So doing all that would bring it down to 2600 with room to still shed weight. Although 2600 is still alot, i don't think you can go much further in weight reduction without hurting daily driveability i.e. taking out door panels and interior pieces, a/c, cruise control, carpet, etc...

 

there's a couple of stripped ones racing...they're down around 2250. Thats without boost or nos so add a few pounds back40 or so...now go find 325rwhp and you might find 12's with a really good hook up.

Other than that you better look for a cold race track that runs downhill.


fltsfshr

 

it seems people haven't told you where you can get a spa yellow hardtop for cheap. hmm.........OEM, so 2500 is the cheapest i've found it. not including shipping and handling. or labor. http://www.hardtopguy.com

 

yeah high 12's n/a is not an easy thing with the weight of the s2k, however it is an eventual goal of mine. whether i make it or not is a differnt story, all I can do is try.

I did the same for my all motor street cars with heavier wieghts than most other cars. If I get the motor to make the power it can be done with right tranny combination, even with a 2.0 or 1.9 60' on the S2k I think it can be done, might have to rev the car bit past 10K rpm but I've put alot of my built motors to 11K rpm and survived, the f20c looks like it can take it.

The rules at any NHRA track is no convertibles under 13.99, except with a hardtop then can;t go under 11.99


Vapor, looks awesome, keep us posted with some dyno charts on your car with that manifold.

Greg

 

You deffinattly won't need 325whp to run into the 12's @2250lbs. Especially in a rwd car. At 2250 with a decent 60' I would say you would need 230whp or so.

 

I know I can;t get the car down to 2250 lbs, its at 2970 lbs now ...

for reference, my street CRX weighed in 2310 lbs with my friend, he got a 2.0 60' and ran 12.3 @ 112mph ... its all motor. I didn;t even finish tuning the car because etown marked the car as an 11 sec car without cage, so we had to cool it. Now we're getting a cage installed ... things are gonna change


Greg

 

cheetah i've seen a video of an S in puerto rico running a mid 11. He made 3 runs lost the rearend on the last one. Wish I could remember his name, he'd be somebody to talk to.

I have a neighbor with an S that puts down almost 600hp. It was just on the cover of turbo tech He has his own website, you might want to talk to him...he's pretty smart on building S2k motors.

His website is http://www.chrisdrivesafastcar.com

fltsfshr

 

thats cool, thanks for the heads-up. I think I'm good with what I need to modify the s2000 motor, I dont plan on spending too much more $ in it. I spend most of my $ on my full blown race car, prolly 3 times the value of my s2000 LOL.

I just like the project and wish I had more time to get it finished. I like the recipe I have as well, just hate the weight of the car.

no to sound cocky either (really), I'm not impressed with big HP setups wehther it be 600hp civics or integras or s2000s ... I've been there and done that and dont need to go there again.
I like the s2 project as allmotor cause I think it has incredible potential from the factory. Always beyond me why people would boost the motor when they can have the equivalnet fun all motor (no offense to the boosted people), just I know both worlds and have had 600hp street honda cars ... the all motor hondas are alot of fun too.

Greg

 

I can appreciate both.

fltsfshr

good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CHEETAH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah high 12's n/a is not an easy thing with the weight of the s2k, however it is an eventual goal of mine. whether i make it or not is a differnt story, all I can do is try.

Greg</TD></TR></TABLE>

Greg,

I don't think you will have a problem hitting high 12's in your S. ITB's, AEM EMS, and just 4.77's should get you there. I don't see why it wouldn't.

Although, it's not a very good judge, a calculator I used online said I only needed 60 whp more to run a 12.6 judging by my 13.7 I ran with exhaust. Obviously, you can hit that 13.7 mark, but since you are an E-town freak, you can't.

If I had the funds, I'd be right behind you hitting the same goals. But, I'm going for high 12's all motor and high 11's on spray. Go ahead people, tell me it can't be done, because it will be.

My recipe in my head for a high 12 is as follows:
Single Exhaust: already got it
Intake: Got it
Test pipe: Going to make one
VAFC: Have to install it
Gears: I'm broke
Weight reduction
I'm quite confident with those small mods I can almost hit a 12. If not, I'll add a header, and switch to AEM EMS.

Recipe for 11's:
Spray ontop of what I have listed.

 

hey, if I were in your shoes, I'd go with the AEM EMS now and sell your 2002 ecu, you'll get good money for that ecu and put the rest towards EMS.

Single titanium exhaust ? yum !!!
I had gotten a good deal on a used ultimate racing dual so thats what I have for 300 buks local I cant go wrong.
I'm a buff for used parts, toda header is used, AEM is used, jenvey's I got originally for my street CRX but in NOPI we cant run ITBs only single throttle injection, so took them off and ordered the jenvey manifold and fuel rail for the f20c head. I still have all this crap to install.
As it stands right now I have a used testpipe from some japanese company and I put an old SFC VTEC controller in there until I can find time to put on the ITBs, EMS, Toda header and milled head.

This week I'm more focused on the race car for this weekends NOPI event at ATCO. I finally put a wet sump oil system in so wanna test on Wed at etown ...

LOL people find it amusing when they see my pitcrew pulling the racecar with the S2000 ... its perfect, the rear tow hook that screws on is perfect

I think high 12's can be done on street tires on the S2000, but I'm not too much for words I guess just pretty much wanna hit it eventually.

Greg