Myth: Sound deadening material in an integra can't weigh more than a few pounds !

Truth: I just finished removing all sound deadening material in my car. When it was all out, I brought down my bathroom scale. the sound tar under the back seats and in the trunk weighed in a 9 lbs. The sound deadening under the front seats and footwells weighed in at 12 lbs. This is an entire weight savings of 21 lbs.

Myth: If I strip out the back of my car, it wont make a difference!

Truth: According to import modifications.com, stripping out the back of your car, and passenger seat, will save you 117 lbs, which is equivilant to about a 6.2 hp gain on an RS/LS, a 7.4 hp gain on a GS-R, and an 8.6 hp gain on a Type R.

Myth: I wont get more than 10 hp from weight reduction !

Truth: Taking out your air conditioning, swapping hoods for carbon fiber, getting some lightweight wheels, and replacing your front seats with lightweight alternatives will add the equivilent of 9.9 hp on an RS, 12 hp on a GS-R, and 13.3 hp on a Type R. In other words , do all of the above mentioned things to your car, and you will experience the equivilant of ~16 hp increase on an RS/LS, ~19 hp increase on a GS-R, and a 22 hp increase on a Type R.

The moral of the story, girls and boys, is that weight reduction does make a big difference. 20 hp is nothing to sneeze at. Its more than you would get from I/H/E, so start stripping your car !

 

Where are you getting your hp increase numbers from?? Are they dyno proven or just estimates?

 

Weight reduction on a daily driver car

I rode around for a week with nothing behind my front seats between when my bodywork was done and when my car was painted, and it sucked. It was so damn loud inside.

I have removed my passenger seat, rear seats, rear trim panels, rear carpet, and spare tire before there's no way it added up to 117 lbs. The only things with any substantial weight is the passenger seat and spare, which are maybe 60-65 lbs. together.

 

i do have to agree with one thing, that factory sound deadening **** is maaaad weight, i think i took about 5-6 pounds out of my trunk alone when i redid it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eclipse spanker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The moral of the story, girls and boys, is that weight reduction does make a big difference. 20 hp is nothing to sneeze at. Its more than you would get from I/H/E, so start stripping your car !</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol funny thread... but intresting info, did you do all the math yourself?

*edit* my friend's SI has no back seats, two sparcos, c/f hood, and I/H/E. His car still feels the same way he did when he just had I/H/E but I haven't seen the track times so I couldn't really say if it got faster

 

<FONT COLOR="royalblue"> It's funny when some dude in a Gutted Hatch pulls up next to you and he still ends up getting spanked by a full interior car. </FONT>

 

so where was that information copied and pasted from? importmodifications.com?

 

In my opinion its not worth stripping the sound deadening tar.
5 or 6 lbs. Cmon. Thats not even as heavy as a gallon of gas. You might as well starve yourself/ get on a diet and run the tank near empty

 

this has also been done in Import Tuner(July 04). it was done on an EP3, and they save some 300 lbs on the car. ud be amazed at the wieght u could save.

 

its also funny when a gutted car has chrome rims on it.

 

i did the whole backseat thing, spare, and all that other stuff in the back. not the sound deadening material though. i think i lost 74 lbs in all. but now it almost feels like my back in is sliding more when going in twisties. im on falken azenis with no more than 3k miles. im actually thinking about throwin back some weight. anyone else have this problem?


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jweezy225 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

lol funny thread... but intresting info, did you do all the math yourself?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

i have seen the site where they posted 'gains in hp' from weight reduction. its not actually gaining hp, but since your losing weight, its increasing power/weight ratio, therefor in an essence increasing hp in a way.

 

I weighed a couple of stuff on my car when i was bored. My numbers came out...

spare, jack and tools ~ 30lbs
cargo cover, trunk board ~ 10lbs
leather back seats ~ 28 lbs

Combine that with the passenger front seat, which I believe is 30-35lbs, you save approximately 100lbs. The numbers aren't exact, but its close

Not fun for a daily driver, but a good start when reducing weight for the strip

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -iLLuZioN-B18C1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but now it almost feels like my back in is sliding more when going in twisties. im on falken azenis with no more than 3k miles. im actually thinking about throwin back some weight. anyone else have this problem?</TD></TR></TABLE> well obviously with less wieght holding ur *** end on the ground it will be easier to slide with. better suspension might help.

 

Check out the latest SCC magazine: they took out 600 lbs worth of "unnescessary" stuff. Ended up knocking off .4 from the 0-60, 2.0 off the 0-100, and .5 from the 1/4 mile.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -iLLuZioN-B18C1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i did the whole backseat thing, spare, and all that other stuff in the back. not the sound deadening material though. i think i lost 74 lbs in all. but now it almost feels like my back in is sliding more when going in twisties. im on falken azenis with no more than 3k miles. im actually thinking about throwin back some weight. anyone else have this problem?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You want your back to slide more...This is called oversteer and is desirable in fwd and awd vehicles...If you want the front to push or understeer more then increase the diameter of your front sway bar, lower your rear tire pressure, increase the front tire pressure, reduce the diameter of the rear sway bar, reduce the spring rate of the rear wheels, lower your car a bit, and get on the gas when making turns...Also, increase the camber all around...

You have a FWD, this means you are pulling your *** around all the time...You want the *** end to use its leverage to rotate around corners while you stomp the gas with the steering wheel pointed in the direction you want to go...

Wear your seatbelts and practice proper driving posture to drive your vehicle with increased control and confidence...

 

yah, basically what they mean by "7.4 hp gained" from weight reduction, is that if your car was hypothetically the original stock weight, you would dyno at 7.4 hp more than a car that has the real stock weight.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by timmy8151 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where are you getting your hp increase numbers from?? Are they dyno proven or just estimates?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Weight reduction on a daily driver car

I rode around for a week with nothing behind my front seats between when my bodywork was done and when my car was painted, and it sucked. It was so damn loud inside.

I have removed my passenger seat, rear seats, rear trim panels, rear carpet, and spare tire before there's no way it added up to 117 lbs. The only things with any substantial weight is the passenger seat and spare, which are maybe 60-65 lbs. together.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah the extra noise is something you have to get used to, but for the handling difference. Better acceleration, better braking, better turning, the whole nine yards....

 

well u really cant see these gains on the dyno, cause its just rollers moving and has nothing to do with moving the car. u would see a gain on the track. and if u dont think so, then why do race cars have the vehicle gutted??

 

exactly. not only that but like I said before, gutting does wonders for your car's handling on the track.

 

Not fun. So noisy afterwards...

 

It's not extra hp, but better power to weight ratio... maybe the hp numbers came from saying, if you take the power/weight ratio after gutting, and apply it to the weight of the car before gutting, it would be like adding xx.xx amount of hp.

 

This is a reply to Iluzion b18's post,

he said,
i did the whole backseat thing, spare, and all that other stuff in the back. not the sound deadening material though. i think i lost 74 lbs in all. but now it almost feels like my back in is sliding more when going in twisties. im on falken azenis with no more than 3k miles. im actually thinking about throwin back some weight. anyone else have this problem?

You can corner balace the car and make up for some of this weight difference, or loose some of the weight in the front to offset it. OR, don't go in to turns soo hot, and come out with more throttle. This will work great if you have an LSD and coil overs, if not, your gonna have to loose more weight in the front.
B

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CA6VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><FONT COLOR="royalblue"> It's funny when some dude in a Gutted Hatch pulls up next to you and he still ends up getting spanked by a full interior car. </FONT> </TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly, if you want 20 more horsepower *or the equiv.* just turn up the boost!!!!

Ohh wait, your honda doesn't have a turbo??? Then it's probally slow, don't bother gutting the inside!

 

where are the hoes going to sit without any back seats?