ok...1st motor build-up
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: OG Capo Status in this Honda Game, NY
ok 1st off planning on stayin all-motor and intend on it being my Daily Driver
sooooo............... with that in mind
lookin into Toda spec A's maybe even B's
and some ctr pistons
has anyone had any good/bad experiences with either of these parts such as cost or longevity
also is that a good starting point because i plan to build slowly since i'm a working college student
sooooo............... with that in mind
lookin into Toda spec A's maybe even B's
and some ctr pistons
has anyone had any good/bad experiences with either of these parts such as cost or longevity
also is that a good starting point because i plan to build slowly since i'm a working college student
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bonez21 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok 1st off planning on stayin all-motor and intend on it being my Daily Driver
sooooo............... with that in mind
lookin into Toda spec A's maybe even B's
and some ctr pistons
has anyone had any good/bad experiences with either of these parts such as cost or longevity
also is that a good starting point because i plan to build slowly since i'm a working college student
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm a working college student. My car has some breathing mods and that's it. No suspension; barely anything. I'm still learning how to drive it after three years; no reason a lightly modded ITR won't be fast enough for guys like us.
sooooo............... with that in mind
lookin into Toda spec A's maybe even B's
and some ctr pistons
has anyone had any good/bad experiences with either of these parts such as cost or longevity
also is that a good starting point because i plan to build slowly since i'm a working college student
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm a working college student. My car has some breathing mods and that's it. No suspension; barely anything. I'm still learning how to drive it after three years; no reason a lightly modded ITR won't be fast enough for guys like us.
CTR pistons are streetable...I have em and never had a problem running 91...A freind of mine is also running 12.5:1 weiseco's and its daily drivin on 91 no problem....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bonez21 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok 1st off planning on stayin all-motor and intend on it being my Daily Driver
sooooo............... with that in mind
lookin into Toda spec A's maybe even B's
and some ctr pistons
has anyone had any good/bad experiences with either of these parts such as cost or longevity
also is that a good starting point because i plan to build slowly since i'm a working college student
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I usually post some smart-*** answers to questions like these, but I feel like you're in shoes I have been in, so I'm going to answer seriously.
DO NOT mod your car over your head. I took a mild approach to modding my ITR while I have been in school and thankfully the car has never really broken on me. As of now, I think I have enough information and know enough people that can help me take another step, but it's taken a few years.
Leave the car as stock as possible, while taking small steps to increase its performance. That way you can appreciate the car in small increments, rather than going from a stock ITR motor to Toda B's in the span of one week.
So, instead of the blingy $4000 motor set-up that you think you might need, save a little for later, and just get a nice header and exhaust, maybe a final drive. Then later a clutch and/or flywheel.
Think about aftermarket brake pads - they only make the best part of the ITR better. Instead of buying a suspension outright, just get a sticky set of tires and some wider wheels. I have been tracking my car for a few years and I still find that I have much to learn, even on the stock suspension.
It might sound stupid, especially while we are young, but the best part of the ITR you can upgrade is the driver. Focus less on things that will transform the car (cams, coilovers, turbo), and instead think about ways to make the connection between car and driver more direct (flywheel, clutch, sticky tires, better brake pads).
Just my two cents.
Good luck.
sooooo............... with that in mind
lookin into Toda spec A's maybe even B's
and some ctr pistons
has anyone had any good/bad experiences with either of these parts such as cost or longevity
also is that a good starting point because i plan to build slowly since i'm a working college student
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I usually post some smart-*** answers to questions like these, but I feel like you're in shoes I have been in, so I'm going to answer seriously.
DO NOT mod your car over your head. I took a mild approach to modding my ITR while I have been in school and thankfully the car has never really broken on me. As of now, I think I have enough information and know enough people that can help me take another step, but it's taken a few years.
Leave the car as stock as possible, while taking small steps to increase its performance. That way you can appreciate the car in small increments, rather than going from a stock ITR motor to Toda B's in the span of one week.
So, instead of the blingy $4000 motor set-up that you think you might need, save a little for later, and just get a nice header and exhaust, maybe a final drive. Then later a clutch and/or flywheel.
Think about aftermarket brake pads - they only make the best part of the ITR better. Instead of buying a suspension outright, just get a sticky set of tires and some wider wheels. I have been tracking my car for a few years and I still find that I have much to learn, even on the stock suspension.
It might sound stupid, especially while we are young, but the best part of the ITR you can upgrade is the driver. Focus less on things that will transform the car (cams, coilovers, turbo), and instead think about ways to make the connection between car and driver more direct (flywheel, clutch, sticky tires, better brake pads).
Just my two cents.
Good luck.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ross R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
...I have enough information and know enough people that can help me take another step, but it's taken a few years.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<FONT COLOR="red">Oh...my...god....</FONT> LOL....
I agree w/what a lot of Ross says, though. You can get right up against 200 HP w/the OEM ITR (00-01) cams, and I do know people who have put Toda B in their street cars and then turned around and taken them out.
Do you have a HP figure in mind or some kind of overall goal in mind that would help us with advising you? Have you already done the intake, header, exhaust route?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It might sound stupid, especially while we are young, but the best part of the ITR you can upgrade is the driver.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Definitely agree with this advice.
However, I'll add a respectful caution about the advice to put "sticky tyres" on the "stock suspension." If you are moving from your SP5000 to Azenis, then that's fine and it makes sense.
I would caution the average person from moving to any R comp tyre with the stock suspension, however. I think that's asking for trouble. I do know people who've done it and done well, but it's still not a good policy to follow, IMHO.
...I have enough information and know enough people that can help me take another step, but it's taken a few years.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<FONT COLOR="red">Oh...my...god....</FONT> LOL....
I agree w/what a lot of Ross says, though. You can get right up against 200 HP w/the OEM ITR (00-01) cams, and I do know people who have put Toda B in their street cars and then turned around and taken them out.
Do you have a HP figure in mind or some kind of overall goal in mind that would help us with advising you? Have you already done the intake, header, exhaust route?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It might sound stupid, especially while we are young, but the best part of the ITR you can upgrade is the driver.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Definitely agree with this advice.

However, I'll add a respectful caution about the advice to put "sticky tyres" on the "stock suspension." If you are moving from your SP5000 to Azenis, then that's fine and it makes sense.
I would caution the average person from moving to any R comp tyre with the stock suspension, however. I think that's asking for trouble. I do know people who've done it and done well, but it's still not a good policy to follow, IMHO.
I have done a bunch of HPDEs and still don't see the need of Rcomps yet, and neither does my last Instructor. He did mention to me that a full set of race pads/rotors would be the best next mod I could do.
As for upgrading the R, start with yourself Just like Ross said and get your *** to a few HPDE events and let the car communicate with you. Once you have been on the track you will understand the caR and what you will want to do with it.
****,, maybe Track events are not for you... but without trying you'll never get to know.
Best advise I can give, learn the caR and then go from there, You might just surprise yourself and only want to do small things... brakes, FW/clutch etc etc.
Good luck.
As for upgrading the R, start with yourself Just like Ross said and get your *** to a few HPDE events and let the car communicate with you. Once you have been on the track you will understand the caR and what you will want to do with it.
****,, maybe Track events are not for you... but without trying you'll never get to know.
Best advise I can give, learn the caR and then go from there, You might just surprise yourself and only want to do small things... brakes, FW/clutch etc etc.
Good luck.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,034
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From: OG Capo Status in this Honda Game, NY
goodness, i didn't know i such damn good teachers around here (not being sarcastic)
u guyz gave me alot to think about my father kinda said the samethings in a different way "Tighten up the little things before you go bigtime" maybe i should listen
u guyz gave me alot to think about my father kinda said the samethings in a different way "Tighten up the little things before you go bigtime" maybe i should listen
Good header, exhaust, and tuning = power problem solved (for a guy a on a budget). I wouldn't rip anything apart until it breaks.
< cammed his car when he was on a college budget, wishes he wouldn't have.
< cammed his car when he was on a college budget, wishes he wouldn't have.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ActiveAero »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good header, exhaust, and tuning = power problem solved (for a guy a on a budget). I wouldn't rip anything apart until it breaks.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Even without tuning, a lot of ITR seem to go over 180 Dynojet HP with IHE and maxing the spark advance.
Intake (cheap): Comptech Icebox (factory look, too)
Intake (best): Mugen ($$)
Header (cheap): DC JDM 4-1 or OEM JDM 4-1 (<-factory look w/shields!)
Header (best): SMSP (IMHO), several other really good ones
Exhaust (cheap): Contact Kteller8, excellent buy
Exhaust (best): SMSP 2.5" custom configured (IMHO)
Old dyno of my car, w/just IHE. It even still had a cat.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Even without tuning, a lot of ITR seem to go over 180 Dynojet HP with IHE and maxing the spark advance.
Intake (cheap): Comptech Icebox (factory look, too)
Intake (best): Mugen ($$)
Header (cheap): DC JDM 4-1 or OEM JDM 4-1 (<-factory look w/shields!)
Header (best): SMSP (IMHO), several other really good ones
Exhaust (cheap): Contact Kteller8, excellent buy
Exhaust (best): SMSP 2.5" custom configured (IMHO)
Old dyno of my car, w/just IHE. It even still had a cat.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Even without tuning, a lot of ITR seem to go over 180 Dynojet HP with IHE and maxing the spark advance.
Intake (cheap): Comptech Icebox (factory look, too)
Intake (best): Mugen ($$)
Header (cheap): DC JDM 4-1 or OEM JDM 4-1 (<-factory look w/shields!)
Header (best): SMSP (IMHO), several other really good ones
Exhaust (cheap): Contact Kteller8, excellent buy
Exhaust (best): SMSP 2.5" custom configured (IMHO)
Old dyno of my car, w/just IHE. It even still had a cat.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This should be sticky.
I had a budget almost 12compression car. Ran fine on 93, barely any tunning, 9500rpm rips, and the car ran for over a year and a half strong. Smoked some, but i say "if it aint makin condensation, it aint makin power."
I say you dont worry SO much on power, but the work to the intake manifold, head, and the headgasket. Hell, keep the bottom end stock, with the right headwork and combination, youll see gains alot more from that than some CTRs. (no flame suit needed)
Even without tuning, a lot of ITR seem to go over 180 Dynojet HP with IHE and maxing the spark advance.
Intake (cheap): Comptech Icebox (factory look, too)
Intake (best): Mugen ($$)
Header (cheap): DC JDM 4-1 or OEM JDM 4-1 (<-factory look w/shields!)
Header (best): SMSP (IMHO), several other really good ones
Exhaust (cheap): Contact Kteller8, excellent buy
Exhaust (best): SMSP 2.5" custom configured (IMHO)
Old dyno of my car, w/just IHE. It even still had a cat.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This should be sticky.
I had a budget almost 12compression car. Ran fine on 93, barely any tunning, 9500rpm rips, and the car ran for over a year and a half strong. Smoked some, but i say "if it aint makin condensation, it aint makin power."
I say you dont worry SO much on power, but the work to the intake manifold, head, and the headgasket. Hell, keep the bottom end stock, with the right headwork and combination, youll see gains alot more from that than some CTRs. (no flame suit needed)
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