It came time for new rotors for the R again. I have used OEM's and had no problems. I decided to go with Centric Replacements that Carbotech and Cobalt sell. They also come treated to help keep rust away a "bit" longer.

I install the new rotors on all 4 corners along with new Cobalt Spec Vr's and Gt-Sports in the rear. All bolts and lugs proberly torqued, I then continue to bed the new pads in as directed to and heat cycle the rotors many times to "help the life of the rotors". After all steps are complete and car is ready I proceed to SLippery Point, WV for a NASA Weekend.

First session there is horrible vibration and not getting any better so I continue to be easy on the brakes and bring them up to temp, thinking they may not be fully bedded in. This continues and the vibration only becomes a tad better as the weekend goes on. Sunday after a session Larry from Carbotech stops over to take a look. There is no eneven pad material on the rotor and he could not believe the symptons being that the Rotors are "new". His thoughts were to take it easy and then turn the rotors when I returned home.

No need to try to turn the rotors when after just 1 weekend of moderate braking the rotors Crack.... I have talked with many others and they seem to experience the same problems. I would not suggest using or purchasing these rotors. "To each his own". Since then I have used AutoZone Rotors and had ZERO problems and they seem to wear and last longer then other brands! JFYI....

One Day on Track.... (Sorry for blurry pics)

 

I have had similar problems.

I went through 2 sets, the rotors would crack after 3 days. I am using autozone/advance auto variety cheap rotors, and getting 5-6 weekends per set.

They all ended up like this:

 

are you using tour e-brake after lots of hard braking? I know that the way our e-brake is that can cause the rotor to crack.

 

These are all front rotors.

If you crack a rear rotor, I will give you a cookie. They dont wear much at all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Surfer_Sandman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you using tour e-brake after lots of hard braking? I know that the way our e-brake is that can cause the rotor to crack.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you know where the E-Brake is located?! Never pull the ebrake or even steady pressure for more then a few seconds after a session.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Smitdog &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Do you know where the E-Brake is located?! Never pull the ebrake or even steady pressure for more then a few seconds after a session. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I know that and that's why I asked hime. as for these rotors being front I didn't noticed that they were. They don't look vented from the pictures.

 

autozone owns again. Ive beat mine to hell and they are still going strong.

 

im using Spec VRs and the centric rotos on the ITR and havnt had this problem. Im on my 4th set of pads/rotors, with mulitple track days on each set, and hard daily driving on each set as well.

 

RJ taught you how to destroy rotors!

that sucks man.. I know they weren't cheap.. OEM and Autozone only for me, methinks..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Surfer_Sandman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They don't look vented from the pictures. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yopur kidding right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Smitdog &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Centric</TD></TR></TABLE>


Autozone = much better

I keep telling j00 f00ls.

 

[commercial singing voice] Get in the Zone... AUTOZONE

much better than buying expensive rotors and having them crack/warp!

 

Are there any differences between Autozones and OEM besides price?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RGoose18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are there any differences between Autozones and OEM besides price?</TD></TR></TABLE>

different manufacturer, so possibly slightly different design/materials.. they hold up just fine though..

 

[QUOTE=mstewar]RJ taught you how to destroy rotors!

QUOTE]

Hahaha.... It seems that Rj has taught me well when it comes to hard on brakes!

He is a Great Instructor though, I have learned ALOT in the few weekends when he rides along!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Smitdog &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hahaha.... It seems that Rj has taught me well when it comes to hard on brakes!

He is a Great Instructor though, I have learned ALOT in the few weekends when he rides along! </TD></TR></TABLE>

oh yeah, i'm sure he's a great instructor.. I just like giving you guys trouble about being so hard on brakes!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you crack a rear rotor, I will give you a cookie. They dont wear much at all.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wonder if Chris N has a picture of the rear rotor he had earlier this year -- there was a huge crack in it. You can PM him for the address to send the cookie to

 

save up for brembo blanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JinDIESEL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">save up for brembo blanks </TD></TR></TABLE>

And then buy 2 sets of Vatozone rotors

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

And then buy 2 sets of Vatozone rotors </TD></TR></TABLE>

yep.. the brembo's are no better.. and you can't even see some big Brembo logo, so that kills the bling factor as well..

 

Are you guys:

1.) Thoroughly cleaning the rotor?
2.) Letting it season for a week of light braking?
3.) Making sure to not put new pads + new rotors on at the same time?

edit: gah, spelled it "breaking" GAH


Modified by Tweakmeister at 11:02 PM 8/18/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tweakmeister &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2.) Letting it season for a week of light breaking?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
why?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tweakmeister &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">3.) Making sure to not put new pads + new rotors on at the same time?</TD></TR></TABLE>
why?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

And then buy 2 sets of Vatozone rotors </TD></TR></TABLE>

They haven't done me wrong yet

 

never had a problem with my Brembo blanks

-Victor

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tweakmeister &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you guys:

1.) Thoroughly cleaning the rotor?
2.) Letting it season for a week of light breaking?
3.) Making sure to not put new pads + new rotors on at the same time?</TD></TR></TABLE>

James I will have to say that I have talked with Andie(Coblat) and Larry(Carbotech), and both say that the 3 things you have listed do not play a significant role. Therefore not to worry. I know many people and most that install new rotors and pads at the same time. What have you heard?