I have OMP pedal covers so the spacing is good, but at the track I still struggle because when I am hard on the brakes the pedal is significantly farther down than the gas so it makes it hard to get my foot up to the gas pedal height without releasing pressure off of the brake. I sure this is a common problem, so how do I solve it? Is there adjustment in the pedals at all?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTECAcuraGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is there adjustment in the pedals at all?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nothing I know of that would really help you.

You could try flushing your brake fluid and bleeding the system to bring the catch point up on the brake pedal. Boiled fluid and/or air in the lines will case the pedal to feel mushy and you will need to press the pedal further to move enough fluid to the calipers.

Your pads may also be worn far.

 

Targa, not sure if the GS-R is like my last CRX but practically nothing would keep the pedal height up during the course of a race at any remotely brake intensive track. I am under the impression that we were not alone in this experience.

Jeremy, my pedal assembly is off the car right now and looking at it quick-like, I don't know how you are going to want to bend the pedal arms to make everything more level as the brake pedal drops. I have heard of guys just putting a pedal pad on the brake and not on the gas but not sure if that is what you want. Seems to me that there might not be a practical solution. And I don't believe there is any adjustment aside from an overly thick brake pad.

 

On my 93 Civic you can adjust clutch and brake pedal height by turning the threaded "rod" type thing that is actuated by each pedal (located behind the pedal and goes into the firewall). I did this to adjust my brake pedal down as it was too high relative to the gas for proper heel toe-ing. I also had to adjust the switch for the brake lights to match up with the new pedal height.

Christian

 

Yes, the GSR also has the threaded rod. Easy to get to if you like standing on your head, upside down, in the footwell. The rod is threaded and has a locknut to hold the adjustment. Just hold the rod with one wrench and loosen the locknut. Then is's simple to turn the rod out a bit to make it longer. Make sure there is enough freeplay to fully release the brakes when off the pedal, even when things heat up on the track. I found it helped my car a bunch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mohudsolo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, the GSR also has the threaded rod. Easy to get to if you like standing on your head, upside down, in the footwell. The rod is threaded and has a locknut to hold the adjustment. Just hold the rod with one wrench and loosen the locknut. Then is's simple to turn the rod out a bit to make it longer. Make sure there is enough freeplay to fully release the brakes when off the pedal, even when things heat up on the track. I found it helped my car a bunch.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep, what he said

 

Are you guys talking about the threading behind the clip thing that (eventually) attaches to the brake pedal (other end of the rod coming off the booster)? Or are these cars completely different in how they connect the pedal to the brake?

 

I talk to Dan Unkerfer with Nasa and he suggest building up the pedal with spacers behind the pedal to make up that distance


Modified by CRX Toad at 4:49 PM 8/16/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phat-S &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you guys talking about the threading behind the clip thing that (eventually) attaches to the brake pedal (other end of the rod coming off the booster)? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, the stroke rod that transfers brake pedal force to the booster. There is a little room for adjustment there, and you must take care to allow total brake release and re-set the top stop and brake light switch after adjustment.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Track rat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yes, the stroke rod that transfers brake pedal force to the booster. There is a little room for adjustment there, and you must take care to allow total brake release and re-set the top stop and brake light switch after adjustment.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I've seen a lot of A-sedan cars with wood blocks on the brake pedals. Whatever works.