i ripped my rear crossmember/subframe =(
I know that you guys are never going to beleive this, but the other day on the way to work, i was about to miss my turn so i slammed on the brakes really really hard, i pulled into work. the end.
Well on the way home, depending on how i let of the clutch the car would make a loud clanky clanky noise.
Well ive been trying to figure out what the problem was and i finally found it

So i guess what im getting at, if anybody has one of these non damaged subframe's for cheap they want to sell, thatd help me out a lot.
And, i need to know how to remove it, i checked the helms and i couldnt find anythinga bout removing it, so im not sure what to do, Id like to replace it with the motor still in the car, but if i have to i guess i will pull it to.
anybody have and do's and dont's?
Well on the way home, depending on how i let of the clutch the car would make a loud clanky clanky noise.
Well ive been trying to figure out what the problem was and i finally found it


So i guess what im getting at, if anybody has one of these non damaged subframe's for cheap they want to sell, thatd help me out a lot.
And, i need to know how to remove it, i checked the helms and i couldnt find anythinga bout removing it, so im not sure what to do, Id like to replace it with the motor still in the car, but if i have to i guess i will pull it to.
anybody have and do's and dont's?
Sorry I sold all of mine but its not to hard to remove even with the engine in.
You must ahve turned real hard and already had some sort of damage.
Once you look at it its pretty self explanatory how it comes out.
You must ahve turned real hard and already had some sort of damage.
Once you look at it its pretty self explanatory how it comes out.
The hardest part when replace the rear crossmember is the steering column.
Taking it off is easy but putting it back is a PTIB.
Read the section about taking the steering column out but just add that you will need to take the LCA out, and the big 17mm nuts(4 total i believe, 2 on each side). Forgot since it was such a long time when I did mine.
Anyways it will take some time and patients, I did that **** on my back yard.
Taking it off is easy but putting it back is a PTIB.
Read the section about taking the steering column out but just add that you will need to take the LCA out, and the big 17mm nuts(4 total i believe, 2 on each side). Forgot since it was such a long time when I did mine.
Anyways it will take some time and patients, I did that **** on my back yard.
Armed with only a impact gun and some ratchets I changed mine in 2 hours.
First disconnect your exhaust and shif linkage. (makes it much easier)
Then you need to disconnect the steering column near the firewall (the is a lil u-joint there), disconnect the tierod ends on your steering rack then drop the steering rack out.
Next disconnect the rear engine mount and the LCA's on both sides where they connect to the rear x-member.
Fianally drop the x-member out by removing the 4 bolts that hold it in.
Intall in reverse.
Thats it.
First disconnect your exhaust and shif linkage. (makes it much easier)
Then you need to disconnect the steering column near the firewall (the is a lil u-joint there), disconnect the tierod ends on your steering rack then drop the steering rack out.
Next disconnect the rear engine mount and the LCA's on both sides where they connect to the rear x-member.
Fianally drop the x-member out by removing the 4 bolts that hold it in.
Intall in reverse.
Thats it.
in addition to ripping my subrframe, i bust that mount into peices.
i think i know why, when u do a b16a swap honda only uses 3 bolts in the mount, i guess for what ever reason, i only used three when putting my mount onto the subframe.

anyhow, all of my local performance shops were sold out so i had a local welder do it, from the looks of it, it should hold really well.
we shall see.
i think i know why, when u do a b16a swap honda only uses 3 bolts in the mount, i guess for what ever reason, i only used three when putting my mount onto the subframe.

anyhow, all of my local performance shops were sold out so i had a local welder do it, from the looks of it, it should hold really well.
we shall see.
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