i have a 96 prelude which is OBDII and i bought a jdm h22 which is OBDI. i need to convert it to OBDII and i hear 2 different ways.
1. buy a OBDIIa to OBDI conversion harness and your done (hope this is it)

2. on obd2 there are 2 sensors on the bottom of the timing pulleys...they are TDC and CPS sensors. Your car will NOT crank without them and the only way to mount them and get them to work is an ODB2 oil pump, OBD2 bottom timing gears because they are notched so that the TDC and CPS sensors can read off of the gear. OBD1 bottom timing gears do not have these notices. basically changing the whole side of the motor(pulleys, ect)!! (please dont be it)

my motor will be here next week so i need to know asap, thanks!

 

#1 i just did this same swap

 

either way works but option 1 is the way to go. with option 2 you would need an obd 2 ecu, since you have an obd 1 motor just get the conversion harness which should cost less than $100 shipped.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SPN BB2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">#1 i just did this same swap</TD></TR></TABLE>

thank god!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yeahdudebrown &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a 96 prelude which is OBDII and i bought a jdm h22 which is OBDI. i need to convert it to OBDII and i hear 2 different ways.
1. buy a OBDIIa to OBDI conversion harness and your done (hope this is it)

2. on obd2 there are 2 sensors on the bottom of the timing pulleys...they are TDC and CPS sensors. Your car will NOT crank without them and the only way to mount them and get them to work is an ODB2 oil pump, OBD2 bottom timing gears because they are notched so that the TDC and CPS sensors can read off of the gear. OBD1 bottom timing gears do not have these notices. basically changing the whole side of the motor(pulleys, ect)!! (please dont be it)

my motor will be here next week so i need to know asap, thanks!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

well if you chose option 1 then your going to need an obd1 ecu,

also your going to need to cut and splice in the obd1 distirbutor, and you will need to add in the resistor box to use the jdm 345s with the obd1 ecu

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelittlelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

well if you chose option 1 then your going to need an obd1 ecu,

also your going to need to cut and splice in the obd1 distirbutor, and you will need to add in the resistor box to use the jdm 345s with the obd1 ecu</TD></TR></TABLE>

You don't need the distributor. Only if you wanted adjustability.

Minimum you need:
- OBD1 ecu
- Conversion Harness

The sensors are in different places with the OBD2 dist but it doesn't matter the wiring all goes to the right place.

 

ok thanks a lot, i already have a OBDI ecy and conversion harness.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by satan_srv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You don't need the distributor. Only if you wanted adjustability.

Minimum you need:
- OBD1 ecu
- Conversion Harness

The sensors are in different places with the OBD2 dist but it doesn't matter the wiring all goes to the right place.</TD></TR></TABLE>


i just bought a damn distributor. are u sure i dont need one because i hear the jdm one is internal and the usdm is external. i also bought a fuel rail hearing because the jdm one is from a RHD car.

 

Wiat, if he is dropping in an OBD-I engine it won't have any place to plug in the sensors by the crank pulley. He would have to swap the oil pump from his old engine to the new one, right?

I think the best bet would be to get the OBD-I engine harness from either a USDM H22 (hard to find) or a USDM H23 (easier) and add a couple wires.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yeahdudebrown &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


i just bought a damn distributor. are u sure i dont need one because i hear the jdm one is internal and the usdm is external. i also bought a fuel rail hearing because the jdm one is from a RHD car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

oh sorry i wasn't paying attention yes that is true I just thought you were going to use the USDM OBDII dist off your old motor. yeah the fuel rail as well

 

I just finished this swap in a 97 prelude with an OBD1 JDM h22. We FULLY converted the OBD1 motor to OBD2...In the long run, this made everything a hell of a lot less confusing. I started off by replacing the Oil pump to house the TDC and Crank Position sensors. Then I replaced the 2 bottom timing gears w/ 2 OBD2 crank timing gears. These are the 2 timing pulleys that are located on the crank. On the OBD2 motors, they have notches on them so that the TDC sensor and CPS can pick them up. (If you do not replace these in the conversion like I didnt at first, the car will not start up.) After getting that finished, I went ahead and put in the OBD2 injectors and but on the Fuel rail off of the original h22 that was in the 5th gen. I then installed the harness ( do this outside of the car for ease of installation) the dropped in the motor. Afterwards i installed the OBD2 distributor. I finished up the swap and she cranked up...Bam..an OBD2 JDM h22!! It took some time, but it was done the correct way.

good luck Anand! call me if you need help

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by satan_srv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You don't need the distributor. Only if you wanted adjustability.

Minimum you need:
- OBD1 ecu
- Conversion Harness

The sensors are in different places with the OBD2 dist but it doesn't matter the wiring all goes to the right place.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am glad to hear someone finally verify this. However, what is the deal with the fuel rail from a JDM H22?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleepy_vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just finished this swap in a 97 prelude with an OBD1 JDM h22. We FULLY converted the OBD1 motor to OBD2...In the long run, this made everything a hell of a lot less confusing. I started off by replacing the Oil pump to house the TDC and Crank Position sensors. Then I replaced the 2 bottom timing gears w/ 2 OBD2 crank timing gears. These are the 2 timing pulleys that are located on the crank. On the OBD2 motors, they have notches on them so that the TDC sensor and CPS can pick them up. (If you do not replace these in the conversion like I didnt at first, the car will not start up.) After getting that finished, I went ahead and put in the OBD2 injectors and but on the Fuel rail off of the original h22 that was in the 5th gen. I then installed the harness ( do this outside of the car for ease of installation) the dropped in the motor. Afterwards i installed the OBD2 distributor. I finished up the swap and she cranked up...Bam..an OBD2 JDM h22!! It took some time, but it was done the correct way.

good luck Anand! call me if you need help</TD></TR></TABLE>

i had mine done this exact same way. except i kept the resistor box and am running OBD I style Peak-and-Hold 345cc injectors.

i assume you guys left the USDM OBD II ECU installed?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by satan_srv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You don't need the distributor. Only if you wanted adjustability.

Minimum you need:
- OBD1 ecu
- Conversion Harness

The sensors are in different places with the OBD2 dist but it doesn't matter the wiring all goes to the right place.</TD></TR></TABLE>

im still not so sure an obd2 distibutor will run ok on a obd1 ecu,

from my expereiences when rebuilding my ditributor tring to use obd2 and obd1 parts, the obd2 dizzy parts had different resistances, but same mounting, but i tried it anyway and the car threw a code, maybe if the whole ditributor way obd2 then it would have run , but when i tried it, my ecu didn't like it,

i need someone to comfirm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iakona &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i had mine done this exact same way. except i kept the resistor box and am running OBD I style Peak-and-Hold 345cc injectors.

i assume you guys left the USDM OBD II ECU installed?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah we did.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleepy_vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just finished this swap in a 97 prelude with an OBD1 JDM h22. We FULLY converted the OBD1 motor to OBD2...In the long run, this made everything a hell of a lot less confusing. I started off by replacing the Oil pump to house the TDC and Crank Position sensors. Then I replaced the 2 bottom timing gears w/ 2 OBD2 crank timing gears. These are the 2 timing pulleys that are located on the crank. On the OBD2 motors, they have notches on them so that the TDC sensor and CPS can pick them up. (If you do not replace these in the conversion like I didnt at first, the car will not start up.) After getting that finished, I went ahead and put in the OBD2 injectors and but on the Fuel rail off of the original h22 that was in the 5th gen. I then installed the harness ( do this outside of the car for ease of installation) the dropped in the motor. Afterwards i installed the OBD2 distributor. I finished up the swap and she cranked up...Bam..an OBD2 JDM h22!! It took some time, but it was done the correct way.

good luck Anand! call me if you need help</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've never heard of changing the bottom timing gears for this...we just used the oil pump and sensor...btw there's only one sensor down there it's the CKP. The CYP and TDC sensors are still in the OBD2 distributor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelittlelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

im still not so sure an obd2 distibutor will run ok on a obd1 ecu,

from my expereiences when rebuilding my ditributor tring to use obd2 and obd1 parts, the obd2 dizzy parts had different resistances, but same mounting, but i tried it anyway and the car threw a code, maybe if the whole ditributor way obd2 then it would have run , but when i tried it, my ecu didn't like it,

i need someone to comfirm</TD></TR></TABLE>

haven't seen it be a problem, of course we weren't mixing and matching parts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by satan_srv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I've never heard of changing the bottom timing gears for this...we just used the oil pump and sensor...btw there's only one sensor down there it's the CKP. The CYP and TDC sensors are still in the OBD2 distributor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well out of experience, there were 2 sensors, perhaps its only one, but there are 2 pick ups for it. The timing gears are different. If you will look at any of the h23 or h22's from 92-95 and them compare them to 96-up, they are different...there are notches on the OBD2 ones....i promise. In the swap, at first we didnt replace them because someone told us that we didnt have too, but come to find out we did. So when we put the 2 new ones on...bam cranked right up.

THIS IS OF A 93 VTEC (part 16 and 15)



THIS IS OF A 97 BASE VTEC (part 17 and 16)



notice the difference???


Modified by sleepy_vtec at 9:45 PM 8/13/2004


Modified by sleepy_vtec at 9:49 PM 8/13/2004

 

It's one sensor it just has 2 pickups.

Anyway yeah I see it I guess we've always them and never looked. not sure about the balancer belt pulley though...nothing's changed with the balancer setup other than the pulley looking different...did the width change or something?

 

pully #17 on the 97 vtec pic has a plate on the back with 2 notches in it. The sensor reads those 2 notches. Then pully #16 on the 97 vtec pic has notches on the back that the sensory reads....you can campare how they work like an ABS wheel speed sensor. It is like a magnetic sensor that reads the notches. If you have someone with a 97, replace them w/ OBD1 pulleys and the car will not crank because there is nothing there for the magnetic sensors to read off of.

 

ahhh!!!! since u did a OBDI conversion from a h22a4, would i need to change all that crap since i have a h23?

 

ok guys i just finished this swap and this is what you have to do.....if i dont say to do it you dont need to....

1)use the 96 h23 harness, put it on the h22 motor

2) use the jdm obdI dist...it has an internal coil, and it has the tdc and ckps inside, your current harness is made to have them down by the crank pulley. this is how to wire that:
1)clip the wires right where they go into the timing cover on the h23.
2)now go onto the h23 harness where these would normally clip in, clip the connector back in, extend the 4 wires all the way to the distributor, cover them with some sheathing and cover that in electrical tape, and run the wires under the IM like the main harness goes.
3)there should be one green wire, one red one, one blue one, and one white one. The green one is the TDC (top dead center) sensor signal, the red one is the TDC ground, the blue one is the CKP (cranskshaft position) sensor signal, and the white one is the CKP ground.
(Sidenote, when i say the colors of a wire, the first one is the wire color, the second one is the stripe color, so red/green would be a red wire with a green stripe. When i say the top of the clip, i mean the top if you look at it from the side where the wires go in)
4)Take the distributor 8-pin connector off the jdm harness, just clip the wires. use a small screwdriver, and poke in the non-wire side, there are tiny clips that hold in the pins, loose all of them and take all the pins out. but make sure to note that went where on it. do the same with the h23 dist plug that is still on the engine harness now, and plug the right 2 (top and bottom)wires into the jdm clip on the right top and bottom spots, then do the same for the left bottom wire, it goes all the way left on the bottom of the jdm clip.

to figure out what wire im talking about, look at the wires on the dist. side of the clip, that is the correct wire color to match up. each sensor and its ground are top and bottom on the same "column" on the clip

5)Run the TDC signal (green) to the orange/blue wire on the dist.
6)Run the TDC ground (red) to the white/blue wire on the dist.

7)Run the CKP signal (blue) to the light blue or blue/green (could be either one) wire on the dist.
8)Run the CKP ground (white) the the light blue/yellow or white (could be either one) wire on the dist.

3) Now for the internal coil wiring.....
1)The external coil has 3 wires: a green one, and yellow one, and a black with yellow stripe one. Take these 3 wires out of the clip that hooked to the external coil, you dont need the green and yellow one, they loop from that clip on the coil over to the dist, so just pull them through and get rid of them.
2)You just need the thick black/yellow stripe one, put that one on the clip on the dist that has a thin black/yellow wire and a blue wire, put this thick black one in the 2 pin clip to connect to the thin blk/yel wire.

4)That is it for dist wiring, if i got anything wrong in the wording here is how it should come out at the end......7 wires on the 8 pin clip, the top left is empty, bottom left is yel/grn for the ICM (ignition control module), the next top/bottom pair should be the tdc (bot)and tdc ground (top), the next top/bottom pair is the ckp (bot) and ckp ground (top), then the last top/ bottom pair should be the 2 wires that came off the right side of the old clip, in the same top/bottom locations as they used to be in. the 2 pin clip should have the blue wire how it was (untouched), and have the thick blk/yel wire coming into a thinner blk/yel wire.

5)now get a good obdII&gt;obdI ecu adapter from a reputable company, hasport reccomends ecuadapters.com. i learned my lesson from this, i cheaped out and ended up buying one that was made wrong, and it fried my tps and my map sensor, so watch out.

6)run the vtec wires down to the ecu and pin them in where they go on the vehicle harness (you can find that pinout anywhere).

7)hook up the ecu adapter and put in the p13.

8)crank that biatch!!!!! if you have any problems let me know.....but that should be it....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yeahdudebrown &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ahhh!!!! since u did a OBDI conversion from a h22a4, would i need to change all that crap since i have a h23?</TD></TR></TABLE>

not if you use an OBDI distributor and change your wiring.

otherwise apparently you have to use these gears off the never H22a..The h23 timing gear will be the wrong size/belt spacing

 

so let me get this straight cause no one really awnserd my question, ehh. ALL i NEED are the following parts to make my engine run:

1. OBD2 distributor
2. OBD2 injectors (from h23 or h22?)
3. usdm fuel rail
4. ecu conversion harness

correct?

 

bump for my question