Heya !

I am currently stuck with a rear disc brake conversion. Why "stuck" you'll think, cause some guy was supposed to buy it from me, and he didnt. Long story short, I have the conversion sitting at home.

I always tought a rear disc brake conversion was useless. Go figure, even tho I race the light hatch, I always tought that my drums were doing a very good job. I'll be installing front Integra knukles (10.3 inches) after this current season (finishing the 13 inches z2000 1st) without changing the master cylinder nor booster. Drove some guy who did that and braking was fine.

Now i am wondering, what if i get tired of seeing this rear conversion and I install it. Will I have to change master/booster and p. valve for integra ones ?

Will a 13/16 master provide a decent braking w/o too much pedal travel with these brakes at 4 corners ?

I am asking this cause I am a student/racer and $ has to be very well spent. (ie not overspent), that way i'd like to save on master/booster/pv, but I am not going to install anything if that gives me a crap pedal feel/performance.

I'm asking here cause i'd like to have opinions/suggestions

Thanks

Pat

 

I guess i'll just try it out myself. thanks anyway

 

We just put 4 wheel disc on a CRX HF and with the stock master cylinder the pedal feel is crap. To do it right get the 15/16 MC and the prop valve.The setup on my 90 SI Hatch is integra rear disc,15/16 Master cylinder, Stainless lines, ATE Fluid, and axxis ultimates. The car has great pedal feel and will easly lock up all 4 wheels even with 235/45R13 Kumbos.

If you can leave the booster go the pedal "feel" will be better. I would get the MC and Porpotioning valve, and leave the booste go if it where me.

 

you don't have to change both get the 91 civic ex MC, its 15/16th and aligned the right way

 

what up with the prop valve also ?

thanks for the replies guys

 

I dont know were the prop valve is on EGs???? But you want the integra(probably DC for you) valve to let more fluid into the rear caliper. If you dont get it the rear brake do almost nothing. The one on my car is off a 93 integra but i am not sure if the valve in your car is located on the passenger side strut housing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mattamotor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont know were the prop valve is on EGs???? But you want the integra(probably DC for you) valve to let more fluid into the rear caliper. If you dont get it the rear brake do almost nothing. The one on my car is off a 93 integra but i am not sure if the valve in your car is located on the passenger side strut housing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You'll need the integra (DC) RS non-abs 40/40 proportioning valve. I have heard of people using the 91 civic ex MC and the stock eg booster, but some people say it is crap.

I am personally running integra front and rear discs. The fronts lock up so fast it's redicilous/scary. The pedal feel is also absolute garbage.

I'll have the integra rs mc/booster/prop valve combo on the car sometime during the next week.

To answer your question STN, save up for the right parts before you put the discs on. You can find places on http://www.car-part.com that will sell you the booster/mc for cheap. Also, http://www.importautosalvage.com can get you everything you need the same day usually, and so can http://www.sohfast.com.

Do it right the first time. I sure wish I did, but now I am almost a year later. I can relate to your poor student status, which is why I felt so compelled to answer.

 

thanks a LOT for such an informative reply.

Would you still think that adding 10.3 up front without touching master, keeping drums, would give any gain ?

If that might feel like garbage, i'll stick with the stock braking system and do it all at once, like you proposed.

 

I've been running Wilwood 4 piston calipers in the front with Integra discs in the rear for 3 years now on my 89 EF STD Hatch, and the pedal is fabulous. Its short, and very easy to modulate. I did not change the master or prop valve form the OEM 13/16" and disc/drum parts that came with the car OEM.

If you have parts that are in good condition, and the brakes are bled properly, there's no reason the OEM master/prop valve won't work great for your setup.

My 1st hand experience/opinion.

 

about the prop valve.

i didn't install one. some people said that its easy to lock up the rear with the 40/40 prop valve, seee it alot. so i didn't install it, and everything was fine when i was on the track, brakes worked great no FADE at all, it was awsome. also remeber i have the 11.1 inch brakes up front.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">about the prop valve.

i didn't install one. some people said that its easy to lock up the rear with the 40/40 prop valve, seee it alot. so i didn't install it, and everything was fine when i was on the track, brakes worked great no FADE at all, it was awsome. also remeber i have the 11.1 inch brakes up front.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what kind of front and rear pads are you using? With HP+ in the front and stock prop/mc/b, the fronts way too early.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 743power &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what kind of front and rear pads are you using? With HP+ in the front and stock prop/mc/b, the fronts way too early.</TD></TR></TABLE>


front pads are GTsports (cobalt friction) and on the rear, i honestly don't know. when i bought the rears there was a **** load of pad left so i said if i don't like it ill worry about it then, well that then never came.

again remeber, technecly im using too small of a MC. all honda's that came with 11.1 inch front discs had 1" MC and im running 15/16th, that might have something to do with it

 

I just skimmed over the replies so sorry if I repeat anything.

If you only swap rear drums for discs, you don't need brake master or prop valve.

If you swap the front and rear w/out swapping the prop valve, your braking will be much worse than it was stock. Frankly, the car will be quite dangerous to drive.

15/16th master cylinder is a good upgrade after you've done the front and rear, but it wont effect your braking, just the pedal travel vs effort.

Brake booster is never necessary with just an integra onto civic brake swap, nor is any master cylinder larger than 15/16ths.

Integra master cylinder wont fit the civic brake booster.

I highly recommend steel braided lines and ATE super blue brake fluid. For rotors I strongly recommend DBA. Slotted are nice to keep the pads fresh all the time, but normal rotors are fine. For pads, Axxis metalmaster are my personal choice.

I also strongly recommend a wilwood adjustable brake proportioning valve. I've written an article about it that I can provide to you if you email me, but it's a little rough as I haven't got a reply from the editors yet.

 

Alright thanks guys.

I'm gonna keep em rear disc, i already have front knukles 10.3 inches. I got my hands (today) on a master/booster from a non abs integra. 91 EX civic 4 door 15/16 master wasn't on my list since i am from canada and we dont have them. Out of my idea buying it from the states ($$$). Option number 2 was 88-91 Prelude 15/16 master. But i dont want by anyway to get such an old master from the junkyard, and again, i am not buying it new.

This is why i've got the complet booster and master from the integra.

On its way is a PV from that same integra.

I am having a hard time making a list in order of priority of what i want to do to the car for next race season. I wanted to slowly go for a roll bar + harness to go with the seat, but I cannot keep them stock brakes (they need rebuild plus I got the front knukles for free).

Thanks again for making it clear.

Pat