Oil Pressure gauge
I need people to chime in and say how they have their's installed.
I've got mine on a t-fitting on the block, and a hose off that to the sender unit which is hanging off the intake manifold brace. My gauge needle bounces around alot, especially when i hit a little bump in the road.
I turn the car on and the needle PEGS to 100psi (max on gauge), sometimes it twitches there, sometimes it just stays solid there. then as it warms up it slowly lowers, and it's a little bouncy (VERY inconsistant). the only time it's steady is @ full warm idle, 15psi.
Oil 10w30 Castrol Syntec.
I've got mine on a t-fitting on the block, and a hose off that to the sender unit which is hanging off the intake manifold brace. My gauge needle bounces around alot, especially when i hit a little bump in the road.
I turn the car on and the needle PEGS to 100psi (max on gauge), sometimes it twitches there, sometimes it just stays solid there. then as it warms up it slowly lowers, and it's a little bouncy (VERY inconsistant). the only time it's steady is @ full warm idle, 15psi.
Oil 10w30 Castrol Syntec.
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i have T'ed off the block where the oil press sensor
i have a copper line to my autometer gauge on my dash.... i actually use a hole-saw and put it on the dash middle, the flat spot, and have it there....
its high on cold, and when the oil is warm, the readings are lower and normal
if it bounces all over the place, the guage is a POS... get a good one.
i have a copper line to my autometer gauge on my dash.... i actually use a hole-saw and put it on the dash middle, the flat spot, and have it there....
its high on cold, and when the oil is warm, the readings are lower and normal
if it bounces all over the place, the guage is a POS... get a good one.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by USDM 4G VTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if it bounces all over the place, the guage is a POS... get a good one.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed I never had a problem with my Autometer
if it bounces all over the place, the guage is a POS... get a good one.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed I never had a problem with my Autometer
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by paybac4223 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the only time my opg gives me any problems is about every 3-4 months i'll notice the needle bouncing around....i just have to tighten the bolt on the sender unit....</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll try that too.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSVTEC 91 Civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The needle bounces when you hit a bump?, never seen that... What kind of gauge is it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ractive. (Toucan industries)
I'll try that too.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSVTEC 91 Civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The needle bounces when you hit a bump?, never seen that... What kind of gauge is it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ractive. (Toucan industries)
yah im going to tighten the nut on the sender and i've got a tuner toys oil fitting coming in aswell.
http://www.tunertoys.com for info on the fitting.
basically it has an bspt -> npt adapter built into a single piece. and it's steel, not brass. stronger.
http://www.tunertoys.com for info on the fitting.
basically it has an bspt -> npt adapter built into a single piece. and it's steel, not brass. stronger.
How i did it:
1. Remove oil pressure sensor from back of block.
2. Install stainless steel line from Fast-Turbo.com.
3. connect OTHER end of line to a Tee-block.
4. strap the tee-block to the firewall (i used my brake lines).
5. reinstall oil pressure sensor to the tee-block.
6. Run other line to associated gauge.
this reduces any vibration issues that you'll have with running the t-block on the back of the engine.
1. Remove oil pressure sensor from back of block.
2. Install stainless steel line from Fast-Turbo.com.
3. connect OTHER end of line to a Tee-block.
4. strap the tee-block to the firewall (i used my brake lines).
5. reinstall oil pressure sensor to the tee-block.
6. Run other line to associated gauge.
this reduces any vibration issues that you'll have with running the t-block on the back of the engine.
Here's how I did it...I just installed mine last week! The turbo should be on in a few more! Wahoo!



This way when I install my turbo I don't have to mess with anything for the oil supply, I can just hook right into the T on my firewall!
P.S. I got all of my oil fittings from Stan at Fast-turbo.com...he's a good guy



This way when I install my turbo I don't have to mess with anything for the oil supply, I can just hook right into the T on my firewall!
P.S. I got all of my oil fittings from Stan at Fast-turbo.com...he's a good guy
ok.. I got a new 4-2-1 header installed tonight (the old one had a hole in the collector and it sounded like complete ***). anyways.. i wanted to see where my tiny oil leak was coming from. Surprise, surprise. from the hose that was feeding the Tee fitting for the oil sender and oem sensor. It was a loose hose clamp. We tightened it up a bit and when we started the engine to test the header the oil was gauge was nice and smooth and accurate.
On the way home. it started bouncing around again. :angry: Its ok.. i've got a proper fitting coming and Im going to be getting some AN fittings. no more damn barb's w/ clamps
btw.. BUMP
On the way home. it started bouncing around again. :angry: Its ok.. i've got a proper fitting coming and Im going to be getting some AN fittings. no more damn barb's w/ clamps
btw.. BUMP
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CRXB16T
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Jan 24, 2006 02:32 PM




