Got my car dynoed, and it came out lower then what I was expecting, unless this is typical #'s. To begin with, I was using a OBD1 B16a ecu. Second, I dont beleive my vtec is working, but if it were, wouldn't there be a jump on the chart? Also, I got the boost upgrade kit, but I lost the Boost Timing Controller, but not sure if this has an effect or not. Anyway, it also appears I'm running lean. Any suggestions or comments? List of mods below.

-98 B18C5
-Comptech Icebox Intake
-DC 4-1 JDM Headers
-Metalit Hi-Flow Cat
-Fujitsubo Power Getter catback exhaust
-Comptech Hi Flow Fuel Pump

 

wow.. that A/F is way up there.. i'd stop pushing your car until a retune..

 

super lean. retune now! dump the JRSC FPR and get hondata, ubetdata, OMGWTFBBQDATA, Chrome or what have you.

you wanna get closer to 12:1 AFR

dont push your car till you retune.

 

First off, that AF is bad (as you've already been told)

Secondly, I'm not sure how much boost you're running, but a friend of mine with a JRSC's ITR put down 205 at 5.5psi.

 

damn your car is running lean. keep boosting and say byebye.. CAN you not hear vtec?

 

I'm assuming the best way or only way to solve this a/f ration problem would be to get hondata or some sort of "ecu". Was planning on getting hondata later down the road, but guess not anymore.

The comptech fuel pump that I do have makes this whining noise when at idle, and while driving kinda comes and goes. Is this normal?

As for vtec, i cant hear it at all. I had my freinds ride in it, and they cant either. No "kick" or anything.

Thanks for the help

 

I dont know what your level of knowledge is, but if I were you I would not floor it until you tune it, or at least get it back to a rich level. Boosted motor running at stoich = boom. Dont waste your motor gl\

Edit: Consider retarding a few degrees via the distributor

_boltz

 

As the others have pointed out, you are running dangerously lean with your setup. Keep your foot out of it until you get a retune. Most all motor cars don't even run that lean!

Are you using the JR FMU and the intake air temp (IAT) relay? There's no way you should be running that lean with the stock kit if you have those items installed. Your a/f looks almost as if the IAT relay is disabled.

Sonny

 

Yeah hella lean *** tune

 

Try ditching that second header you have on your car. Something is telling me that using two JDM headers on your car just isn't working for your b16a ecu with no vtec.

But seriously, get the right ecu in there if you plan on using only the JR fmu. That fmu works when, and only when your A/F ratio is perfect with the right ecu. Otherwise, you better be tuning with the cheap VAFC if anything.

 

Oh yeah, the JRSC will mute the sound of the VTEC crossover. When I first installed mine, I thought my VTEC wasn't working either. You can get some of the VTEC "roar" back by opening up the exhaust.

Sonny

 

Your VTEC cam comes on pretty obviously @ 4500 rpms on that dyno plot... And you are going to blow your motor being that lean. Get uberdata.

Matt

 

well, seems I have no choice but to get somn to adjust the a/f ratio. Really appreciate everyones help here, or else i prolly would of ended up with a blown motor.

My question is, would it be worth to get a vafc for now? Would I be able to solve this lean issue w/a vafc? Thing is, I'm seriously not in a situation to get a hondata or uberdata(same price?).

Thanks again

 

uberdata is free...almost. look into it.

 

Before spending any money, you should make sure that the kit is installed properly. The engine will run lean without the IAT relay. It will run lean if the FMU isn't working properly (or not there).

JR generally errs on the safe side. Most everyone who dynos their car after installing one of their kits finds that it runs super rich.

Sonny

 

Where would i find this IAT relay?

 

This is the pressure switch that activates the IAT relay. You should see it on the back of your manifold. There is a 1 wire connector that plugs into the pressure switch. That wire goes to the IAT relay. It's a black box that cuts into the wires for your intake air temp sensor.

Sonny

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo E 604 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">super lean. retune now! dump the JRSC FPR and get hondata, ubetdata, OMGWTFBBQDATA, Chrome or what have you.

you wanna get closer to 12:1 AFR

dont push your car till you retune.</TD></TR></TABLE>

right on man

 

Hondata all the way!
Get some bigger injectors too.
And JRSC as never been known to put big numbers anyways... atleast on the RSX's they pretty much Suck

 

Your vtec is working, you can tell from the drop of torque and HP when it switches. Then. the slope increases after 5700.

But dayum, you better retune your car. Your going to blow it up, like everyone else said. Ditch that b16 ecu you got, its not helping your car. Hondata

 

I dont have anything hooked up to that!! It has a metal "clip" lookin thing stickin out of it, but nothing hooked on.

 

Imma definatly hook up that wire, but..even after I hook it up, do you think it would be safe to for another dyno run? w/o a a/f ratio gauge, I dont know how I would be able to know if I'm still runnin lean or not. And come to think of it, that guy who dynoed my car didnt even say anything to me about me runnin too lean. All he said was "not bad at all, so are u gonna go run ur car at the 1/4 track now...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC2_TEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Imma definatly hook up that wire, but..even after I hook it up, do you think it would be safe to for another dyno run? w/o a a/f ratio gauge, I dont know how I would be able to know if I'm still runnin lean or not. And come to think of it, that guy who dynoed my car didnt even say anything to me about me runnin too lean. All he said was "not bad at all, so are u gonna go run ur car at the 1/4 track now...</TD></TR></TABLE>

listen dude...like everyone else here has said, until you get that thing tuned, the answer is no.No...NOOO!! why would u risk blowing up the engine by dynoing it, when u have nothing to tune it with?

And it sounds like the guy who ran the dyno didn't give a damn about what happened to ur car...after all, he was just getting paid to dyno it...not tune it...

 

You can tell if the IAT relay is working by looking at the voltage that the ECU sees. When the IAT relay kicks in, the ECU should see 4.5 to 5 volts...ie, maximum cold. This makes the ECU dump in more fuel. Dirty...but that's how JR was able to do their kit without requiring larger injectors.

Sonny

 

When you up the boost, you gotta add fuel and remove timing, or your ring lands snap off. It's especially important with a high compression engine like a C5. If you lost the BTC, find it or get something else to handle the timing like a MSD BTM if you're not going with a standalone.

The IAT relay not being hooked up could explain the lean condition, get that thing fixed and you should be okay for 6-8 pounds of boost. How much boost are you running? Hopefully not more than 8 pounds or your stock injectors won't be able to handle it, even with the FMU and IAT relay.

Did you retard your base timing per the JRSC instructions? It will hurt your off-boost drivability, but will help keep those ring lands intact. Also get a JR MAP controller, it's by far the best thing I ever did for my JRSC setup. With that and the BTC I was able to restore full base timing and my car was much more fun to drive, also gets rid of the IAT relay. IMO the kit should never have been sold without a MAP controller, it makes that much of a difference.

After you get it working right, lower your VTEC engagement point. With a JRSC you can drop it all the way to 2500RPM and it will make a big difference. I used the JR VTEC controller, it worked fine. Also get some cam gears, they make a huge difference for JRSC engines. I dialed in 4 degrees of intake advance and half a degree of exhause retard and gained 14WHP almost all the way across my chart on a B16. Of course to make the most of this you need some good engine management, I used Hondata with 440CC injectors, but have seen dirt cheap uberdata setups that work well too.

Lastly, get one of those cheap Autometer fuel mixture guages. It isn't real accurate, but it is good for giving you an indication of when you are rich or lean under boost. You always want to see it go rich under boost. If it goes lean, stop boosting.