I was bored so i thought I would post up some pics of me changing my headgasket for the second time. Grrr....i hate this crap .

 

nice pics?

 

yea i'm bored sorry....

so how many other people are having trouble with their D's blowing headgaskets lately? I think mine was caused by a warped head from the last time I blew it and it overheated.

 

Get ready to replace it a third time, too... *never* set a head face down on it's milled surface, even if you're going to have it resurfaced.

Check your block for warpage?

 

how am I suppost to set it? I haven't checked my block yet...i'm just praying that isn't warped.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mekkis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Check your block for warpage?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, check both the block and head.
Copper Spray that gasket. Only use a new gasket!!!

 

i coppersprayed the old one like a bitch and it still leaked.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC_MShue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i coppersprayed the old one like a bitch and it still leaked. </TD></TR></TABLE>

One or both are warped. Make sure you torque in the factory service manual sequence as well. (Middle out)

 

why do all that labor and use an old gasket??!!

OEM Headgaskets (NEW!)

 

Somebody around here had some ARP headstuds for like 105 shipped. I'll see if I can find the link.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sketch_hs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why do all that labor and use an old gasket??!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I still have never understood this either.

 

i use new gaskets everytime, I have arp headstuds, and I step torqued them in the correct sequence.

So whats the deal with not sitting the head down on that side? I have it on a soft cardboard box. If not that side then how the heck do I set it down?

 

Thought I would have probs with the headgasket running over 300whp on the D, but the key seemed to be a Cometic HP gasket with the fire ring, ARP's torqued to 60 lbs then after 100 miles 65lbs. Heck, I had forged pistons go before the headgasket did. Just saying what worked for me. Didn't even use copper spray but everything was spotless when I put it together.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC_MShue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i use new gaskets everytime, I have arp headstuds, and I step torqued them in the correct sequence.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Gasket on the right way?

It just has to be one (or both) of them is warped.

 

yea its on the right way. I'm pretty damn sure my head is warped...just praying the block isn't. Do you know why mekkis sais you can't set the head face down ladysman? I've never heard this before...espescially if its on a soft surface.

 

where is the cheapest place for the Z6 head gaskests you guys have found? Some of the aftermarket (stock design) ones are really expensive so I thought ide ask.

I'm about to put my new block and head together and thats the last part can't wait. I had the block and head resurfaced and am using ARP studs. hope I don't have this trouble.

Oh ya $98 shipped for z6 ARPs
http://www.lightningmotorsports.com/arp.htm

 

i bought my y8 from honda for like $26 I think . I get a discount though.

 

the y8 is thinner right?

 

new head bolts...old ones probably streatched

 

i used to think that too, but then a lot of people started saying they were exactly the same.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cramerox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">new head bolts...old ones probably streatched</TD></TR></TABLE>

they were brand new...see the studs?

 

whats ur setup and how much boost r u running???

i'm just curious,
theres a huge thread about dseries folk having head lifting issues.

I MIGHT go turbo on my d15b vtec.. if I dont sell the kit..
so i'm curious about your situation!

I wonder what it is that causes this,
and/or at what point does this problem occur.

 

i'm running 9-10psi.
my setup is on the first page of this thread

I think my problem all boils down to the first time I blew the gasket. It was the first day with my turbo setup running...i had a temporary shitty *** charge pipe setup with a dsm smic mounted in the corner of my engine bay, I had stock headbolts, and I was boosting 15psi because of boost spikes and wastegate issues. Needless to say I blew the gasket quick in the first day. My car ended up overheating while I was driving out to my friend's house far away from me to get him to weld up my exhaust. It was hot as **** outside and my temp gauge was past the ******* H. That has probably warped my head, my block, or both.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC_MShue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm running 9-10psi.
my setup is on the first page of this thread

I think my problem all boils down to the first time I blew the gasket. It was the first day with my turbo setup running...i had a temporary shitty *** charge pipe setup with a dsm smic mounted in the corner of my engine bay, I had stock headbolts, and I was boosting 15psi because of boost spikes and wastegate issues. Needless to say I blew the gasket quick in the first day. My car ended up overheating while I was driving out to my friend's house far away from me to get him to weld up my exhaust. It was hot as **** outside and my temp gauge was past the ******* H. That has probably warped my head, my block, or both.</TD></TR></TABLE>

cool,
I checked it out..
yeh sounds about right.
I really would **** around with anymore than 10psi on a stock dseries.
maybe like 12 BRIEFLY or something.
personally i'd say 8-9 is sorta safe.

Yo if you want to fix you'r slow spoolup times,
ditch the wastegate completely and run a springloaded setup.
the carbspring method as ppl call it.
you hook up a carbstyle spring to the wg flapper arm, and attach the other end somewhere.
kinda hard to adjust but basically the spring hold the flapper closed,
and then the boost pressure pushes it open.
the tighter the spring holds it, the harder it is for the boost to push it open, thus you'll run more boost.

it'll spool up faster than you can imagine cuz theres no wasted gases.
doesnt hold boost up top as well though, but should be fine for any normal application me thinks.

 

I've never had a problem with all of the turbo's on my D. Check out the block with a straightedge and feeler gauges.