As some of you know I will be installing my Toda A cams/ toda gears over christmas break. They will be going into my 98 ITR with 38xxx miles on him. What parts will I need to order to have everything ready to go for the install. Should I do anything while I have the head off. I will be installing a 1-layer HG for some more compression. But that's all I had in mind, unless I should take care of anything else.

I have access to my dad's lift, and I have the service manual for my car. I just need a list of parts (T-belt ect) Thanks once again fellas.


I would like to get my parts through Mike K ( if he reads this thread )

 

Get the following parts...

Cam seal, qty.2
91213-PR3-004

VC gasket, qty.1
12341-PR3-000

VC grommet, qty.4
12342-PG6-000

Also, it might be a good idea to get these while you're in there...

Distributor O-ring
30110-PA1-732

Oil filter
15400-P0H-305

Call me tomorrow, I'll be in from 9am to 4:30ish.. maybe 5:00

BTW, nice avatar. "It's the one that says bad ************ on it.."


[Modified by Mike K, 12:19 AM 11/30/2001]

 

Mike K,

I'll hit you up tomarrow. Thanks again bro.

Those 'bad ************' wallets are going for like 70 bux on ebay. Go figure....

 

All those parts are recommended to be replaced, but I have and many others have reused all those gaskets multiple times. Just clean them up a bit and they should not leak.

Hell, I am still using the original gaskets that came with my car and I have taken off the valve cover at least 6 times and I have no leaks.

Have the tool to cut the valve cover handy. AND dont forget your valve clearance adjusting tools.




[Modified by t, 10:26 PM 11/29/2001]

 

Did you guys use a dremel to cut your valvecover?

 

i dont think a dremel is buff enough to cut the valve cover...never tried it myself. oh yeah, how bout a belt tensioner. any of you guys use one when dealing w/ the timing belt?

 

.....bend a coathanger and you're all set.

 

don't pull too hard, you'll nuke the WP in a couple of thousand miles

 

4 covers later... my Dremel hates me.

Will
-whos Dremel gets very hot

 

yes a dremel works fine - just a few blades is all it takes... Ask Willard on this board for confirmation. He's done several in the NC area...

 

upgrade to Meziere!

 

Using a coathanger on the tensioner is not a good practice at all.

Follow the procedure recommended in the Helm's manual. When done properly, you'll notice the belt to be *slightly* loose. Maybe a little too loose for those of you who are used to doing t.belts... but anyway, reason is.. (Honda Master Tech told me this, so I might not relay it to you guys in the perfect way, but here goes)

The characteristics of different materials were taken into consideration by Honda engineers when they were designing the belt and pulley system of the DOHC B-series engines.
When heated, rubber tightens up
When heated, metal expands

Basically, what it comes down to is... the slack you have on the belt when the motor is cold, is GONE once the motor is hot. The cams and crank expand , along with the water pump gear. Now, they don't expand MUCH.. but enough that when the rubber slightly shrinks on the belt when it's heated.. you have perfect tension on the belt.
By using the coathanger method, once the motor is hot, you are creating MORE drag on the engine and decreasing the life of the timing belt and water pump.

BTW, I have since changed my ways and threw the coathanger in the trash..