How do these devices get plumed inot the car's braking system.


Righ now i belive a honda system works with two lines out from the MC then into the pop vavle and then 4 lines out. Does this device one have the two lines into and 4 out does it just replace the current pop valve?

Cause the image shows onty one in and one out, So then it work on one line out from the MC?

 

This is a great question and I am in the process of researching this myself. Here is what I know.

Honda/Acuras do not plumb their brakes Front and Rear. They have one line going to FL/RR and FR/LR. With that said, in order to plumb up a proportioning valve I understand that you would need to run 2 valves for each group of lines. You would also need to remove the stock valve. I hope this is a good start!

Can someone else finish this and help us out? Thanks!

 

You remove the stock prop valve.

You plumb one of the lines coming out of the MC with a T junction. From that you plumb both of the front lines to that. You run the other line out of MC to the new adjustable prop valve, and from there you run a line terminating into a T-junction and plumb the two rear lines to that.

Hope that helps,

Matt

 

So the brake bias really only influences your rear brkes and then that in turn governs the bais of the hole system?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B HATCH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So the brake bias really only influences your rear brkes and then that in turn governs the bais of the hole system?</TD></TR></TABLE>



With a single MC setup you are only reducing the pressure to the rear brakes to control the balance. It is not recommended to reduce the front pressure. With this setup, you may have to experiment with rear pad compounds to find what is right for you. I do not have an adj. prop. valve but I do run a less aggressive rear pad to get the balance I want.

HTH

 

A proportioning valve of this type is a pressure-limiter - you put it in the rear circuit and use it to decrease line pressure and caliper force at that end.

I THINK that I'd look at running separate lines to the front calipers, then a single line through the car to the back, with a T beyond the prop valve.

Note that the screw type valves sometimes don't have enough range to really manage a road racing set up. I've seen systems where people use the lever type (Tilton) to get in the ballpark, then the screw type (downstream of the other) to diddle in the last little adjustment.

This assumes that you have enough squeeze at the front, given your tires and caliper piston diameter. Conceptually, you need enough line pressure in front that you can lock your front brakes if the backs are turned way down. It's probably not an issue but it might be worth checking.

K

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Knestis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Note that the screw type valves sometimes don't have enough range to really manage a road racing set up. I've seen systems where people use the lever type (Tilton) to get in the ballpark, then the screw type (downstream of the other) to diddle in the last little adjustment.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't know how effective, or safe a set-up like that really is, and as far as I know it's not recomended by any prop-valve manufacturer. The brake prop valves are not linear devices, they have neck points (before which they act as 1:1 valves, and after which they reduce pressure) If you piggy-back the valves you'll end up with some weird pressure curves going to the rear brakes.

But who knows, maybe it works really well...

 

just a quick, unscientific observation:

a prop valve on the rear brake circuit will only be useful if you are experiencing premature rear brake lockup, right?

on my honda racecar, my fronts lock up before the rears, using the Accord wagon front setup and the stock rear drums. putting on a rear prop adjustable valve in this situation wouldn't do anything useful; i'd first need to increase the rear braking capability (with custom rear shoes, or a rear disk conversion and very grippy rear pads) and then install the rear prop valve and adjust it down...

right?

todd

ps on my vintage racecar, a lotus super 7, i was experiencing really bad rear wheel lockup; i installed a wilwood screw type prop valve, and gradually turned down the rear braking until the fronts were just barely locking up before the rears. worked great!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd Reid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just a quick, unscientific observation:

a prop valve on the rear brake circuit will only be useful if you are experiencing premature rear brake lockup, right?

on my honda racecar, my fronts lock up before the rears, using the Accord wagon front setup and the stock rear drums. putting on a rear prop adjustable valve in this situation wouldn't do anything useful; i'd first need to increase the rear braking capability (with custom rear shoes, or a rear disk conversion and very grippy rear pads) and then install the rear prop valve and adjust it down...

right?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You are replacing the stock prop valve, not adding the aftermarket one to it. With no valve, you would have just as much pressure in the back as the front, and could easily lock them up. From what i have read, when you add the adjustable one, the fully open position allows more rear bias then the stock unit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Greyout &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You are replacing the stock prop valve, not adding the aftermarket one to it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ah ha! now i see....

oh, and very cool avatar!

todd