Problem: Starting the car usually takes 5 secs or longer of turning the key, once it finally turns on it idles around 1,000 (after warming up, the few attempts of turning it on result in ~1,500). When we give it gas it bogs completely and eventually cuts out. Any ideas???

I have replaced:

Distributor (using TD-44U; 95 Del Sol)
Adjusted Throttle Position Sensor
New Battery
New Clutch/Flywheel
New Axles/Brakes/Rotors
New Spark Plugs/Spark Cables
New OBD1 Wiring Harness
New Fuel Filter
Timing adjusted to 16 degrees
New Battery Terminals
New Cap/Rotor
New Oil Filter

ECU Serial 37820-P30-010
470-204068 ASH

I know some of the items up there arnt engine starting critical, but i included just for the hell of it.

Any suggestions or ideas are greatly appreciated!

FluX91CRXSi

 

wait are you running a obd jumper?? if so id check that out, soudns like everything is fine but something in the wiring or lack of fuel...

 

is all of ur vacuum correct? i had troubles with my map sensor and some vacuum but i got it all figured out... i also timed mine and now it doesnt sputter at all and runs fine..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nerologic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wait are you running a obd jumper?? if so id check that out, soudns like everything is fine but something in the wiring or lack of fuel...</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i have an obd0 to obd1 converter. i gave that to my wiring person when he made the harness, he said everything will plug in just fine... how would i go about verifying the proper amount of gas is getting through?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkunkCrxSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is all of ur vacuum correct? i had troubles with my map sensor and some vacuum but i got it all figured out... i also timed mine and now it doesnt sputter at all and runs fine..</TD></TR></TABLE>

I replicated the way everything is plugged in on my friends hatchback who also has a JDM B16a and still it sputters during startup and then dies after you give it gas.. Currently its timed to 16 degrees

 

anyone?? BUMP.

 

BUMP YET AGAIN!

Well heres some more info, today I purchased some STP Throttle Body cleaner, upon spraying that in the throttle body while attempting to start helped tremedously, but once it finally started and stayed on the check engine light went on... I could then give it gas and rev it; however it only would rev to 3,500 and then it would cut out... We kept giving it gas and spraying more of the throttle body cleaner into the intake manifold and were able to get it to rev to 5,500....

I let it idle for 5 mins, then turned off the car and attempted to start it again, nothing, it would only start when i would spray the cleaner in the manifold, then the check engine light would go back on, but the car would remain on and repeat the above symptons....

Whats going on here??? PLEASE HELP!!

 

How about checking the codes?

 

Well my ECU is a P30 and doesnt have an LED on it to check the codes, i tried using my buddies ECU (looks like a stock ECU w/LED) and it blinks 8 times. But i dont know how accurate it is since i use an OBD0 to OBD1 ECU conversion harness.

[edit] aparently 8 blinks is TDC (Top Dead Center) Sensor, I have a new distributor in there... what if i flipped the rotor 180 degrees, would that work? ....

Also checking other threads about ECU codes, if any codes are thrown this will result in the car being in a "limp mode" which is prolly why i am experiencing the 3,500 rpm limit.... Am i correct in this observation? [/edit]


Modified by FluX91CRXSi at 9:47 PM 8/14/2004

 

Most likely that is limp mode. If the rotor was 180 degrees off, I don't think it would run at all, but I could be wrong. That would definitely be something to try since it won't cost you anything to do it.

 

You need to wire up a switch to check your codes. There should be a wire that you can ground, and it will flash the codes right on the dash.

 

How would i go about doing that? As in what wire would i ground?

[edit] nevermind; found it in the FAQ... will try that out... thanks for the nfo

btw... you do mean https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=682412 Correct?
[/edit]


Modified by FluX91CRXSi at 12:10 PM 8/15/2004

 

Yes, but your crx wont have that plug. Look at the directions on your obd0-1 jumper. It should have a wire labeled, or something that explains how you check your codes. What jumper are you using?

 

actually it did, and i used some 12 gauge wire to connect to both of the slots in the plug, and it ended up blinking 4 times, then blinked 5 times, then repeated... mind you this was after i cleared the ecu code, by removing the battery.

im just going to give in and take it to honda to do a full inspection.... I also found out that the alternator is not charging my battery as it just sucked it dry (this being a newly purchased battery)...

HMO sold me a $hit package, the axles broke, the dizzy was bad, the alternator is bad, im suprised the engine even started...

I love my CRX and im willing to pay honda prices to have it repaired because its driving me up the wall to see it not doing a damn thing.