Well I just got back from gettin my Skunk2 Stage 1 cam installed in my D16z6...and I gotta say...it pulls nice. The valve train is a little loud...about as loud as my stock valve train before the install...because I needed a valve adjustment. I can feel the cam really develope power at about 5200 and pull all the way to 7500 revlimiter...so I know a chipped ECU would help out.

So my question is...with a stock valvetrain and this cam...is it safe to take it past the stock revlimit...and if so...how high? I'm thinkin about tryin out my friends Skunk2 chipped P28...but I don't wanna float a valve. Anyone have any insite?

 

i would get new valve springs... just to be on the safe side

 

Bump

 

ya most of the times with new cams, you have to upgrade the whole head to really get on it and not damage anything but then again you have stage 1, so that might be as bad, but even then i wouldnt take it up past 7500 for now

 

what other mods do you have... and how much did u pay?

 

I have the basics...CAI, GSR Throttle Body, 4-1 Header, JDM ITR B-pipe, Custom Mugen Syle Axle Back, and a test pipe. I'm thinkin of installing my friends FPR and maybe uping the pressure by a couple lbs...nothing much. I bought the cam new off of BlackEG...but I'll leave the price undisclosed...I'll just say it was a good deal. Thanks BlackEG if you read this.

Any B-Series run their cam's higher than stock with a stage 1 on stock valvetrain?...if so...what head and how high?

 

Would like an 8200 or 8500 rev limit be out of the question on stock valve train?

 

You're asking to do damage with that high of a rev man. You'll probably not even make power up to there. I say take it to a dyno and see where you actually make power to, but if you want to rev it that much then definently get an upgraded valve train. Remember it's not a B-series or H-series, so you're not going to get any crazy rpms out of it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicSpoon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You're asking to do damage with that high of a rev man. You'll probably not even make power up to there. I say take it to a dyno and see where you actually make power to, but if you want to rev it that much then definently get an upgraded valve train. Remember it's not a B-series or H-series, so you're not going to get any crazy rpms out of it.</TD></TR></TABLE>


there are people with dohc that dont make power at 8500, so your sohc would be hard to do, you would need more mods and alot more tunning

 

Talked to Jeremy at RedZone Performance today...I'm goin to probobly get new valve springs installed when I go back to do a follow up valve adjustment after 500 miles. Even though the stock springs are pretty beefy...I'm just goin to play it safe.

I'm lookin to probobly just get Crower Springs since they are about $100 cheaper. It doesn't matter which brand springs are used correct? If anyone has some springs for sale...PM me please...cause I wanna optimize the power of the cam.

 

n e numbers on it yet...

 

None yet...I gotta save up money so I can buy the springs and install them. Soon hopefully.

 

new springs and retainers, and rev the hell out of it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H23 EG Hybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have the basics...CAI, GSR Throttle Body, 4-1 Header, JDM ITR B-pipe, Custom Mugen Syle Axle Back, and a test pipe. I'm thinkin of installing my friends FPR and maybe uping the pressure by a couple lbs...nothing much. I bought the cam new off of BlackEG...but I'll leave the price undisclosed...I'll just say it was a good deal. Thanks BlackEG if you read this.

Any B-Series run their cam's higher than stock with a stage 1 on stock valvetrain?...if so...what head and how high?</TD></TR></TABLE>


anytime man .


as for the valvesprings, i had bought the skunk ones with intent to use them with the cam, and wind up revving to about 8000. i remember hearing that this cam makes power to around 7800 to maybe as much as 8000, but i dont think revving much past 8000 would be necessary. you can probably get away with using the zex valvesprings that are meant for the 59300, just because the skunk2 st1 and zex 59300 are relatively similar in profile, if not the zex cam having a more aggressive ramp rate...if you need any help or have any questions feel free to get me on instant messanger.

 

Keep it below 8k.
7800 would be my limit.
Ive spun bearings on a y8 AND a z6 from daily 8k abuse.
Get valve springs, keep the oil topped off, Chip the ecu for 7800 max, but I still dont recommend taking it past 7500-7600 often.
BTW your rev limiter is 7200. 7500 is the optimisitic stock tach.

 

First victim...94 GSR w/ AEM ITR CAI, Skunk2 IM, DC 4-2-1 Header, HF Cat, N1 Exhaust, and Skunk2 Chipped P28. Beat him by a door and fender. We'll find out more tonight when I go to some runs and see how it does against other cars.

Future plans are upgraded springs, chipped ecu, or just a cam gear. Also goin to put it on the dyno and see what it makes...wish I had done this before I got the cam so I could see just how much it added. I also have a complete Homemade Turbo Kit ready to be installed that I pieced together awhile back. Just waitin on my custom AC compatible manifold before I install it.

 

I wouldn't bring it above 7500rpm until you do the rest of the valvetrain.You wouldn't want to blow anything after spending money on the new cam.My buddy has blown a couple(2) Y8's because of over rev not a good thing.

 

id defenitly say dont rev past stock redline until you at least get new springs and retainers

 

is your hatch gutted?

 

I would really suggest a new valve train for that.. Or Springs and Retainers at minimum. I suggest sunk2

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H23 EG Hybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would like an 8200 or 8500 rev limit be out of the question on stock valve train?</TD></TR></TABLE>

1 - valve float
2 - at those levels you also have to worry about the bottom end... The d16's have a long 90mm stroke...

 

DEFINITELY get new valvetrain. New springs and retainers and DEFINITELY get it tuned. I wouldn't even rev that high without getting it tuned first. But, you probably won't get any power up there without getting it tuned nor any other internal upgrades. 8,200 RPM is not worth it if no power is had up in that RPM range.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kaoss_11 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is your hatch gutted?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Full interior coupe.

 

valve springs and retainers about 8200rpm is safe imo

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dampachi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would get new valve springs... just to be on the safe side </TD></TR></TABLE>

WoRd y0