i just bought a 95 accord in really good condition. i installed a cd player and got 5 percent tint on windows so people dont see me chiefin.

PRoblem: cant ride on this factory system. Money is limited but i know a kid who can get me two 12's in a box. 1200 watt amp, capacator, and door speakers for about 450 maybe less. The system brand is MAaudio. i dont know much bout systems and havent really heard of this company. is this a good brand for that price. i know retail is way more for all that.

Also does anyone know wut size front and back speakers are in the 95 accord lx? thanx

-DaGhost

 

you need to research speaker systems...learn how they work...what RMS wattage is..max...total harmonic distortion, etc... you can't just slap random crap together and call it a stereo system...you actually need to get parts that compliment each other. if the 2 subs are rated at 300watts each (~150watts rms) and you hook a 1200watt amp to it, you wont have those 2 12's for too long. find out all of the specifications on the equipment...

 

1. two 12' dual band-pass in box: 1000w - 500rms each.
2. 1200 watt 2 channel amp. (2 x 500w rms @2 ohm Stereo)
3. Digital capacitor
4. new 6.5 fronts and 6.9 backs
5. wiring kit.

Price : $500 even

See for urself.
1.BOX http://www.maaudio.com/product...s=259 (im gettin tha 12's w/ neon light cuz my car is blue.)
2.AMP http://www.maaudio.com/product...s=611 (again last one on tha list HK897)
3. Capacitor http://www.maaudio.com/product...s=623.

Tell me what you think of all this going together......

Right now i got a 40watt JVC cd player. Will i need a new head unit???

 

Can anyone give me some type of advice for this system? Is it a good brand that will last, and will i need a new head unit. now i have a 40w jvc.

 

you still need a smaller amp. Pushing the subs to the RMS limit is not good, especially if the amp isnt CEA compliant, you really dont know how much power your putting out. probably better to go with an amp that puts out 450x2 or maybe even 400x2. I've learned this lesson the hard way more than once. And that price quote is pretty cheap, you get what you pay for, do some research first. Or better yet, buy a book. A good book for beginners is Auto Audio by Andrew Yoder. (they have the second edition on amazon.com for like $18) it will explain alot of the basic stuff you should know before buying an audio system.

P.S. the first edition on amazon is like $4-$8 or something, but it isnt nearly as good.

 

so my amp should put out less than my speakers rms?

**again will i need a new head unit?

 

yes, generally speaking you shouldn't pump them to the max, (you could always just not turn it up the whole way) but that can be risky, especially because you don't know how many watts the amp is delivering at any given volume. If you push them too hard continously they will melt, if you do decide to push them to the max, rotate playing ex.(5 min LOUD, 5 normal, or off). If 40 watts is the total output of your deck i would suggest getting a new deck, because thats weak, and your new speakers wont be nearly as loud as they probably could be. But will you necessarily need one? NO!, however check to make sure your current deck has pre-amp outputs on the back, that could cause you alot of problems when install time comes around.

 

you can go more than rms just be generous with the gains. don't turn them up all the way and those ma amps are over rated so.. expect less you should be fine and you won't need a capacitor your alt can halde it believe me

 

I think the Older MA stuff was pretty good. Not a personal fan, but you could definately do alot worse.

1) Pushing 1000 watts rms would kill your alternator. I think the stock alternator rating for a '95 is around 70 amperes. Most people dont upgrade to a High Output alte. So, the general rule is to dedicate half of what your alternator rating is for your stero system. 1000 wrms/13.8v constant is approx 72 amp draw, maximum. Granted you will not draw that much power constantly; however, when the deep bass notes hit that amp will draw as much as it can from your alte to finish the bass notes. I would consider a lower powered system. You dont need 10,000 jigawatts of power for something to hit good. A friend of mine at a car stereo forum I belong to has one 2 channel Orion HCCA comp amp for his wholesystem: 2 12" subs and infinity kappa perfect components. The subs are wired to one channel at a 2 ohm load and the components arewired to the other at a 2 ohm load. This guy was a professional installer in MI for 20 some years. He hits in the upper 140's (db) in comps.

2) The capacitor isnt the answer for not having a small alte. Granted it stiffens voltage rails and allows for readily available power; however, by having too small of an alte it does moreharm than good b/c the alte has to constantly supply power to 2 electical components instead of one.

3) The door speakers will be fine. You have the right sizes.

Suggestions:

1) COnsider a smaller wattage system. Pay attention to only RMS power (Root Mean Square). RMS power is the average or continuous power the amp will output. MAX ratings are BS. THose cheap amps like legacy or sony will rate the amp at 2000 watts max. What they dont tell you is that when they tested the amps the "2000 watt" figure they came up with was right before it blew up, and a THD (total harmonic distortion) at 20%.

You could stick with MA but consider Rockford Fosgate (There new stuff is ok), Alpine, or JL to name a few.

I just did a sweet install on my brothers 2 door explorer. All alpine. Two 12" Type E's and a mono alpine amp. Alpine HU, components, and 4 channel for mids/highs. It hits damn good.

Hope the info helps.

Z

 

a sidenote in case you dont get this particular setup....name brand doesn't always amount to the best stuff. if you know what you are looking for, and know how to read the specs (and understand them) then you can save a lot of money with the lesser name brand stuff.

 

Point taken.

However, there is a reason why there are high quality brands like Zapco, JL, ALpine, Infinity, CDT, Focal, Dynaudio, and Xtant (to name a few) have a reputable history; that is, b/c they have and will continue to constantly make great equipment using higher quality materials and parts then other companies.

IMO, when dealing w/ car audio, you get what you pay for. I have seen guys throw there money away on legacy, sony, bazooka, and have it run ok for them for a while, but then reliabilty becomes a problem. The ***** starts to cut out and not work right. Although, there are some that never have problems with the lower quality companies. However, just about every company will have some issues at one point, regardless if its something serious or general maintence.

No offense taken, I was simply expressing my opinion. I have been into car audio for years and have alot of information and insight to offer and he wanted in honest review.

Z