Too much track driving seems to have worn out my driver side axle inner joint. I was just at Watkins Glen and had to stop due to a weird vibration while coming round a right hand turn hunting down another Porsche. The axle just doesn't want to slide in and out like it should.

So my question is, what replacement should I get. Car is in the 190 whp range, and lowered by about 1.5". I looked around a bit and found units called Avid Racing Axles, $339/pair from Mantaray. I also found Acura Integra Level 1 axles from driveshaftshop.com with nice green boots for $399, and also see that a place called raxles.com has some claims to quality. I don't want garbage re-manufactured units, nor the Honda originals, so I am looking for opinions as to what is a good choice.

 

http://www.raxles.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by davidnyc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.raxles.com</TD></TR></TABLE>

+1

 

For some reason i can't get the raxles.com site to load, so I can't get the phone #. I just spoke with Frank from driveshaftshop.com. He seemed very knowledgable and descibed to me all the features of their Acura integra/Honda Civic Road/Rally Axle's (set), and listed some of theircustomers for these racing axles. Only problem is that they are $649 for the pair. Ouch! I also looked at posts on this board and found pictures of some broken axles from raxles, but maybe that was due to an installation error. What do the raxles ones cost for road racing?

I also spoke to guy from Gator axles in Florida, and they sell a set for road racing for $387. Didn't sound quite as fancy as the ones from DSS, but a lot cheaper. Any opinions on these?


Modified by descartesfool at 10:52 AM 8/5/2004

 

here's the # for Raxles

888-257-8192

Christian, who is still running stock axles but is interested in this discussion...

 

strange your inner joint went bad...
my outters were the first to give me issue.

what do you think about a cv joint rebuild before they fail?
type of lube?

 

My inner driver-side joint went out first as well. I'm trying to trace the issue to a bent LCA (from having the machine shop install LCA bushings). When I last measured the camber, it was +.2* on the driver-side and -1.1* on the passenger-side. You can easily see the difference at a glance.

I just didn't realize that it could have been the issue until recently measuring the camber for myself and then going back to look at my alignment sheets from a year ago. Both showed the same thing.

 

I checked my camber at -2.5 degrees on each side, so no issue there. I just took apart the inner joint on driver's side and one of the three grooved "tracks" in which the bearings run was damaged in the middle and so was the edge of the bearing, causing the joint to not go back in once it had been extended and causing the severe vibration. When joint went back in, vibration stopped. Boots were not damaged and joint was full of the original Honda grease, so I have no clue why it failed. Nothing else seems to be wrong, and all bearings from wheel to intermediate shaft are fine, and no apparent binding anywhere.

 

i'd just stick with stock axels, **** its 110 a pair, unless the boot is made out of somthing stronger on those other axels ill stick with stock

 

Jesus, where is it 110 bucks a pair?

 

I still enjoy that Drive Shaft Shop's Axles. Good quality but still pricey

 

there is a new chain of car parts in california, they carry only parts that are 'under a car' and they are called fast under car parts.

110 for a pair of axels, 100 for a set of rebuilt ITR calipers fully loaded, they have great prices