Alrite I've never done a valve adjustment b4.. simply because I don't know wat it's actually doing?? Can anyone help me out and explan why people do this and that to the valves?? Thanks Guys.

 

Remind me tomorrow morning with an IM.....I have the link on my work computer.

 

Enjoy.
http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto.html

 

G3-Teg,

ROFL, that is almost the link I was gonna give.

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/v...lveadjust.html

 

Or this: (Courtesy Sonic)

You can find top dead center by taking the valve cover off and turning the engine with a ratchet until the cam gears say UP aat the top of the gear. Here's a valve adjustment article I wrote for G1Teg.org for the D16A1, but it's 99% the same for the B18:
The valve adjustment on a D16A1 is quite simple. All you need is patience and a few simple tools.
You will need:

* Feeler gauges
* flathead screwdriver
* 12mm closed end or flare nut wrench
* 17mm socket and extension
* 10mm socket and wratchet

It is also very important that you adjust the valves when the engine is cold, like sitting overnight, because if the engine is warm, the parts will expand with the heat, and the adjustment will be off.
1. Remove the spark plug wires, and Remove the upper timing belt and valve covers, there are 4 10mm crown nuts and 2 10mm bolts. Put them out of the way for now.
2. Turn the wheels all the way to the left so that you can access the hole for the crank pulley bolt that is in the splash guard. Put your 17mm socket and extension through there to be able to turn the crank pulley. Turn it only counterclockwise, that's the way that Honda motors spin. Turn until you reach Top Dead Center for piston #1, indicated by the notch on the crank pulley lining up with the indicator. You do this to make sure that the cams are not pushing the valves down, as that will also effect the adjustment.
3. Now go back up top and start with whatever side you wish. I usually do the intake valves first. Get out your feeler gauge (you know which one because you have a helms, right? ;-), i use .005 intake and .006 ex), Insert the feeler gauge between the cam surface and the rocker arm. Feel how much the feeler drags between the two surfaces...there should be moderate drag...not to heavy but enough that you can feel it. If it's too loose or tight, you need to adjust it.
4. Loosed the locking nut with your 12mm wrench. With the feeler gauge still in place and the wrench still on the nut, use your flathead screwdriver to turn the adjusting screw until it makes light contact with the feeler gauge. Feel with the gauge how much drag there is. When there is light-moderate drage on it, hold the screwdriver firmly in place and tighten the locking nut down again. Now recheck the clearance to make sure it is ok. Try using feeler gauges that are one size smaller and larger than your target to see if it is adjusted correctly.
5. Repeat on the other 3 valves
6. Now you have to do the cylenders in the firing order becaue it involves the least amount of turning. The firing order is 1-3-4-2. Turn the motor until you see that # 3 is at TDC, shown by the fact that both cams are not pushing down on the valves....when you see it you'll understand what I am talking about. Now adjust these valves and repeat all the way through all 4 cylenders.
7. Now go through with your wrench and make sure that all the locknuts are tight...
8. Put the valve and timing belt covers back on and tighten the nuts to 7 lb ft.
9. Remove the 17mm socket from the crank pulley before you start the motor, if you don't it will spin with the motor and fly off (ask me how I know :-P)
10. Put back your plug wires and start it up...
Good luck!


[Modified by sackdz, 11:16 AM 11/29/2001]

 

Um, you will need a 10MM closed end or flare nut wrench on a D16Y.