Yesterday, I have bought used 1998 ITR:




I absolutely love her and it was definitely a perfect move from my previous 4G Prelude VTEC. The car just turns and brakes a lot better. The car has 86000 miles. It is completely stock and I want to keep it like this.

I’m totally new to the ITRs, I didn’t even drive one before I bought this one. I have zero experience with it, so sorry for some basic questions:

1) When I drove back home with her, I heard some strange noises when in the gear and just cruising – like something crunching from the tranny, the sound is just coming from the gear stick area (when I sit inside). When I pushed the clutch pedal, the noise stopped, revving engine while stopped is also quiet. Is this normal? I didn’t hear anything like this in Prelude.

2) What about the stock B18C6 engine? Are there any common problems with it (like auto-tensioner faults in H22 engines etc.). Is the 86000 miles much for this car/motor? Should I worry with daily driver and light track use of the stock car?

3) What oil are you using? I used 10W40 semi-synthetic in my H22, but don’t know about B18. The previous user used 5W50 synthetic.

4) What oil for the transmission? The previous user used 5W50 synthetic and I think this is not good.

5) Do you recommend to keep the stock rims or should I change it for something bigger? I prefer the best performance, not looks

6) Is there any immobilizer in the key? I got 2 black keys and 1 red (packed).

7) What about the fuel – there is “98 or better” on the sticker and common is 95 octane (for example for Preludes) here in Europe. Is the better fuel a must or I can use the 95 octane with just decreased power? Or will it hurt the motor? I found some bottles of octane booster in a trunk, the previous user probably used this when he couldn’t get the 98 octane fuel. BTW, yesterday, I took full tank of 100 octane fuel :-).

8) The car has no alarm, I assume I should buy one...

9) What is the exact weight of the car with installed air condition? I have 1125kg (2480lbs) in my papers, but it seems too low to me.


I think other questions will follow, it’s just all new to me.

 

1) could be the throwout bearing
2) 86k is not high miles if it was well maintained. Timing belt should have been done if not, do it soon.
3)There are many topics on oil if you look around on this forum. Don't forget to search the archinves!
4)Use Honda Manual Transmission Fluid
5)Performance go with stock rims or something lighter and wider
6)Not sure about euro.
7)Use the highest that is available at the pump
8)Yes, that would be a good idea!
9)That is a bit low. Look to be around high 2500s.

 

1) no
2) no, but few things i would do the 90k maintenance on it right away, even if the owner seemed to have taken good care of it.
3) many oil threads here. search.
4) probably cause of #1. use honda mtf for street use.
5) if you prefer performance, why would you get a larger wheel?
6) no
7) for daily use, use whats recommended by manufacturer. for US,. that means premium (91 octane or higher).
8) alarms do a great job at what they do, make a lot of noise. you decide if you need one.
9) go weigh the vehicle. just recently found out my vehicle is 2735lbs with me inside. (~180lbs)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by % &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">9) go weigh the vehicle. just recently found out my vehicle is 2735lbs with me inside. (~180lbs)
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You fatass. I don't want to catch you making any more "Fat Gay"...er, "Fat Ray" jokes anymore.

To "Petrv" - you seem to have your head screwed on pretty tight. Most people just come in asking about the best turbo kits for the ITR...glad to see you're keeping it [mostly] stock. Welcome.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ross R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You fatass. I don't want to catch you making any more "Fat Gay"...er, "Fat Ray" jokes anymore.

To "Petrv" - you seem to have your head screwed on pretty tight. Most people just come in asking about the best turbo kits for the ITR...glad to see you're keeping it [mostly] stock. Welcome.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so, what turbo kit would you recommend?

 

hmm the exhaust doesnt look stock ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tofuR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm the exhaust doesnt look stock ? </TD></TR></TABLE>
The muffler is stock, it's just the end of the muffler (or how you call it)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by petrv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The muffler is stock, it's just the end of the muffler (or how you call it)</TD></TR></TABLE>

tip?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
7)Use the highest that is available at the pumpUse 98, should be available most places, only a bit more $$
9)That is a bit low. Look to be around high 2500s.Remember the Euro R's do not have the same massive bumper supports as you americans, mine is also listed at 1125 kg's with A/C. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

8) that should be the first thing you get!

 

According to the point #1 (tranny): is the ITR tranny more noisy that other trannies (from Prelude etc)? If I open the transmission to just check the bearings, do I need to make any accurate measurements of clearences etc? Or just push the bearings out/in and build it together without any extra accurate methods?

Thanks, Petr

 

My tranny also makes some noise, especially when i get on the gas at low rpms in 4th or 5th gear, I currently have 116 k kms on mine and change tranny fluid every 40 k kms as the service manual dictates. Use Honda MTF for the tranny, 5W 50 is not good for your tranny.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pondus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My tranny also makes some noise, especially when i get on the gas at low rpms in 4th or 5th gear, I currently have 116 k kms on mine and change tranny fluid every 40 k kms as the service manual dictates. Use Honda MTF for the tranny, 5W 50 is not good for your tranny.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I already changed it, no change so far. The oil in the tranny (5w50) was like water....an btw almost 3liters (should be 2.2)

 

it is nosier because of the lack of sound deading on the firewall.

lots of different noises will be heard.

Not saying that there is no issue with your tranny... just that the noise you hear may be a normal one. Flush the fluid and fill with fresh fluid and see if that changes the noise.

 

7) I have used 95 Euro octane without problems and I didn't notice any decrease in performance.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DanishR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">7) I have used 95 Euro octane without problems and I didn't notice any decrease in performance.</TD></TR></TABLE>
OK, so it's not dangerous for the motor to run euro95 octane fuel.....that's what I wanted to hear

 

Do all the ITRs have a knock sensor? For example USDM Preludes do, while EDM Preludes don't have one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by petrv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1) When I drove back home with her, I heard some strange noises when in the gear and just cruising – like something crunching from the tranny, the sound is just coming from the gear stick area (when I sit inside). When I pushed the clutch pedal, the noise stopped, revving engine while stopped is also quiet. Is this normal? I didn’t hear anything like this in Prelude.

2) What about the stock B18C6 engine? Are there any common problems with it (like auto-tensioner faults in H22 engines etc.). Is the 86000 miles much for this car/motor? Should I worry with daily driver and light track use of the stock car?

3) What oil are you using? I used 10W40 semi-synthetic in my H22, but don’t know about B18. The previous user used 5W50 synthetic.

4) What oil for the transmission? The previous user used 5W50 synthetic and I think this is not good.

5) Do you recommend to keep the stock rims or should I change it for something bigger? I prefer the best performance, not looks

6) Is there any immobilizer in the key? I got 2 black keys and 1 red (packed).

7) What about the fuel – there is “98 or better” on the sticker and common is 95 octane (for example for Preludes) here in Europe. Is the better fuel a must or I can use the 95 octane with just decreased power? Or will it hurt the motor? I found some bottles of octane booster in a trunk, the previous user probably used this when he couldn’t get the 98 octane fuel. BTW, yesterday, I took full tank of 100 octane fuel :-).

8) The car has no alarm, I assume I should buy one...

9) What is the exact weight of the car with installed air condition? I have 1125kg (2480lbs) in my papers, but it seems too low to me.


I think other questions will follow, it’s just all new to me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Because it's a EuroITR, I will give you the correct answers

1) It should not sound like crunching, just whining noise. It's from the LSD. The sound should also go away when letting the gas off.

2)As far as I know there are no big problems with the stock B18C6. Maybe some high mileage engines use some oil. Light track use is OK if it's maintained correctly.

3) I use 0W-40 Castrol Syntec on the streets and 10W-60 on the racing track. So 5W-50 is something in between.

4) Use Honda MTF II in the tranny. Available at the Honda dealer.

5) Euro stock rims are very good (6 kg) for performance. Of course it can be better like Mugen or Spoon or Volk rims (15" or 16").

6) Yes, there is an immobilizer in the black keys. Don't use the red key, it's for reprogramming a new black key.

7) You should use 98 RON fuel or better. 95 will decrease power a bit and there will be some knocking (a bit). But to be safe, use 98 RON. The EuroITR has a knock sensor, but zero knock is always better.

8) Alarm? Depends on your situation. And the area where you live.

9) 1120 kg is the correct curb weight for an EuroITR.

 

DutchITR1689: thanks, great answers

Are there any other differences between 98 USDM and EDM ITR? Except of the stronger USDM bumper?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by petrv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DutchITR1689: thanks, great answers

Are there any other differences between 98 USDM and EDM ITR? Except of the stronger USDM bumper?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, a lot. I will name the important ones.
- USDM has different rims (heavier)
- USDM has no Recaros stock
- USDM has the B18C5 (lower compression)
- USDM has different rear seat and there is a big bar below the seat
- USDM has different steering wheel (4 spoke)
- and a lot of small differences....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by petrv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DutchITR1689: thanks, great answers

Are there any other differences between 98 USDM and EDM ITR? Except of the stronger USDM bumper?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Seats and steering wheel is different and they dont have the fog light in the rear bumper, engine is called B18C5 and is a little different, mostly the CR is lower(10,6:1 vs 11,1:1) Differences in the tranny too, FD is 4,4 instead of 4,785 as on Euro and JDM r's I believe 5th gear has a slightly different ratio too.

I'm sure theres's more but that's what i remember right now.

 

The USDM hjas same power/tq as EDM? EDM are the same as JDM ITRs? Sorry for my newbie questions...

 

1. no
2. not sure
3. use the threads..
4. ...
5. p1 race rims
6. dunno
7. just use the best there
8. its an IT-R of course!!
9. almost 2600

i dont kno if this helped but yeah..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by petrv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The USDM hjas same power/tq as EDM? EDM are the same as JDM ITRs? Sorry for my newbie questions... </TD></TR></TABLE>
They are all different and all those numbers are not comparable, because US use SAE standard, Europe uses ECE standard and Japan uses JIC standard.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DutchITR1689 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
7) You should use 98 RON fuel or better. 95 will decrease power a bit and there will be some knocking (a bit). But to be safe, use 98 RON. The EuroITR has a knock sensor, but zero knock is always better.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you sure about that? Did you experience knock? The only way the performance could decrease would be if the ECU sensed knock and decreased timing, and as far as I have read the ECU doesn't use the knock sensor when the car is @ WOT. Of course if it knocks it would be a problem and performance would decrease.