okay, the other day i finished up my suspension. but after lowering the car, i was a bit displeased. not only is each wheel gap different, but it also doesn't even look lowered. infact it looks stock ride height. in the back i have about a 3 finger gap and on the front i can basically fit my whole fist in in. i haven't been able to drive the car at all, still waiting on finishing the brakes. do you guys think it needs to be driven and let it settle. its been sitting for about 2 or 3 days and it settled just a little bit, but does it make a huge difference after you drive and take a few turns?

also im using koni sports if that makes a different. i am noticing though that i can not torque the two bolts to 22 ft lbs. i noticed after about getting to 15+ ft lbs the actual shaft starts to turn, not allowing the bolts to tighten anymore. i waited to tighten the bolts down until i installed them into my car for my own reasons, but i don't see how you could have tightened them down while they were out of the car anyways. the springs do appear to be seated properly. anyone have any suggestions or info? thanks.

 

i have h&r race springs on my crx 1 finger gap in the rear and 2 finger gap in the front. 205/50/15's

 

something isnt right maybe, you got the wrong springrates..?

 

im riding on some stock steelies. not sure if that has anything to do with it? i didn't know that h&r offered different spring rates, at least i didn't at the time. i did however check h&r's website and the model number matched teh springs i got. also, i checked to make sure that the konis i received were for the hf. infact i checked twice.

 

bump for opinions

 

I thought H & R race springs were mean to keep the weight to the front of the car not lower your car. Usually race springs are like 900 lbs or 1000lbs in the back and like i think 300 - 400 lbs in front. Mine has 1000lbs in rear and stock up front and I don't have any drop it looks stock. U could put coilovers on it and make it lower.

DEF

 

hmm thats weird, cause when i bought them from the seller he said that it would drop me 2.5 in the front, and 2 inches in the rear. by knowing the spring rates can you tell how much it should drop the car? or is that something else?

 

that i dont know. But at least i gave you a free bump again

DEF

 

did you let them settle in? maybe thats another thing you might have to wait for when i frist dropped mine i was lookin at my car and i thought the drop wasnt that good after a while it got lower and lower until it settled in so mayb you just have to wait?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deftones0817 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that i dont know. But at least i gave you a free bump again

DEF</TD></TR></TABLE>

hey man, im just glad that you tried to help, and thanks for the free bump.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -RsINtEg- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you let them settle in? maybe thats another thing you might have to wait for when i frist dropped mine i was lookin at my car and i thought the drop wasnt that good after a while it got lower and lower until it settled in so mayb you just have to wait?</TD></TR></TABLE>

and i haven't gotten to drive it to let them settle, and i was really hoping for that to be my problem. as soon as i get my calipers on today, hopefully after driving it around for awhile and maybe doing about 100 circles maybe they will get a little lower.

 

I'd make sure that they are seated properly on the shocks. You should be getting a 2.25 drop in the front and 2 in the back. What two bolts were you talking about not being able to get tight?

http://www.hrsprings.com/site/....html

 

the bolts on the top of the shock itself. they are located under the hood, and actually hold the whole spring/shock assembly together. the directions said to torque them down to 22 ft lbs, but when i set my torque wrench to 22 before it can ever torque the bolts down, the whole shock shaft starts to spin making it impossible for me to tighten the two bolts down. and ill definately check again and make sure they are seated correctly

 

Well not shure if this helps you, but what model # are your springs? I just jacked up my front pass-side tire and mine say H&R 51807.88F. I have about 1 finger gap in the rear,and 1 1/2 in front,on some 195/50/15 tires. Also. When I lowerd my EG after we finished it looked like we didn't even touch the suspention. One week later after driving it to and from work.I happend to take a good look at it ,and you could easly see the springs had "broken-in" and setteld. Good luck.

 

I have the H & R race springs on my CRX and it's being like 5 years I believe since I got them. Never had a complaint about them. The springs takes about a week or two to settle completely but you have to drive it for it to do so.

I don't know what kind of gap by fingers but when I had 18"s on mine, the tire tucked under 1/4".

 

u mentioned that u had koni sports with your H&Rs
are they the yellows?
if so are they set on highest perch?

 

if you let them sink dom go fore a hard ride then you will see that they will lower you car..if you got the right stuff..bad english=swede

 

Up from the dead.

Does anyone run these and an Ingalls camber kit?

I have heard you have to hack the hell out of your shock towers with the Ingalls kit if you're too low.

 

suspension will get lower with use.....remember that.....also make sure everything is installed properly.

 

i have h&r race's on my 90 hatch w/ koni yellows. AWESOME suspension, and lowered quite a bit i must say....

GREAT at the track, i have no complaints after a day of ripping at gingerman raceway.....very predictable, and nice and solid in front.

 

reset your bushings. youre bushings are what are causing the unevenness. as specified in the helms manual even. put the car on 4 jack stands, loosen ALL the suspension bolts/bushings, then jack up one wheel until its supported fully by the jack (just off the jackstands) and tighten everything to spec.

honda bushings act like springs. theyre probably worn out, and at different "spring rates", but you want to zero them out at your new height anyway.

waiting for the "springs to settle" means waiting til you killed all your bushings.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deftones0817 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Usually race springs are like 900 lbs or 1000lbs in the back and like i think 300 - 400 lbs in front. </TD></TR></TABLE>
um no, not off the shelf "race" kits. i guarantee you its only 300-400 lbs/inch up front, and 200-300 lbs/inch in rear.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegunderpressure &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Up from the dead.

Does anyone run these and an Ingalls camber kit?

I have heard you have to hack the hell out of your shock towers with the Ingalls kit if you're too low.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i do, and i didnt hack ****, however i think the camber kit raised my height just a tad