Hi.

Here is the deal:

Enigne: B16A2

Timing belt install is 100% correct, the white mark on the pulley matches the mark on the block and the camgears align perfectly (pic)


-&gt; <U>Now, here is the problem</U>: To get my ignition correct (red mark matches the mark on the block -&gt; 16 deg. BTDC) I have to adjust the dizzy -all the way- towards the firewall(pic)! (normally that would indicate full advance of the ignition)


Before I installed my new cams(Skunk2 Stage1's), the dizzy would sit in the middle of the adjustment hole with the correct timing (allowing further adjustments either way)

So onwards to the big question - What the hell have I done wrong ?

...coming real close to jumping off a bridge here Please help...

 

if your dist. is rotated towards the firewall that would indicate full retard?
what motor are u using?

 

what kind of timing gun are you useing.. if its one with the **** for adjusting on the gun then you are looking at the wrong line... you have to look at the white line a little firther back than the red line.. i did the same damn thing once, drove me nutz

 

B16A2.

According to my manual it says advance. Testing it by turning the dizzy towards the front makes the cars slower - and the ignition retard.

 

92WhiteEG: I'm using a cheap Equus timing gun with no adjustments possible on the gun itself. Just a clip on the nr. 1 wire and shoot...

Edit: The white line I'm talking about is the one that sits by itself about an inch or two from the red mark that has a mark on either side of it indicating 14 and 18 deg. BTDC)

 

I really nedd to sort this out. Anyone with additional help?

 

bump

 

I'm not sure, but isn't it nessessary to install adjustable cam gears inorder to bring the cams into spec? Hopefully, somebody else will be able to elaborate on this. Free bump.

 

No you dont need cam gears unless you head or block has been milled.

Are you sure you have the timing light lead on the correct spark plug wire? Make sure it is on the one closest to the timing belt. Second thing I will ask is if you have your service check connector jumped like you are supposed to? If not do that and re-check the timing since without it jumped the car could advance or retard the timing at idle due to to the conditions at the time while you are checking it.

John

 

Thanks for the interest and free bumps

- No milling or head work.
- I used the correct spark plug wire.
- I jumped the service check connector.

I think one will have to look for less obvious mistakes here.

Everything was installed according to the manual - which is mostly the reason why it is making me crazy.

 

You know one think i forgot to ask was though your top cam gears were in line, what about the crankshaft gear? Did you check that one to make sure you are not off a tooth?

John

 

Yes sir, that is checked and checked again. Then I checked some more.

No, this error is something beyond me. Everthing was done according to the manual.

 

Heres a free bump, and a related pic.

 

Im having this same exact problem, and Im about to jump off a cliff aswell.

 

the white line on the pulley that is furthest from the 3 lines that are together is zero degrees, it is TDC, #1 should not be firing at that mark

 

#1 is firing at the middle line of the 3 lines that are together...

 

Nobody figured this out?

Guess I'll have to tear the damn thing to pieces. Again.

 

You could try adjustable cam gears to compensate the timing with the gears instead of the distributor. If you retard the cam gears, it would allow your distributor to come back towards the middle since you have placed it in the most advanced position. You don't need a milled head or block to get cam gears. As a matter of fact, it's beneficial to have adjustable cam gears when you have aftermarket cams.


Modified by jasoncho408 at 1:55 PM 10/13/2004

 

The timing picture is backwards. If you pull the distributor towards the exhaust side it's advanced where it shows Retarded by arrows, assuming EX side is Exhaust Side and IN side is Intake Side.

According to the picture in parenthesis (Picture is shown from cam gear side), so the arrows are right if they were talking about the bolt's movement. Geez this is driving me nuts.

Someone take a goddamn picture of a real distributor and photoshop arrows on it, geezus.

 

jasoncho408:
Adjustable camgears are all well and fine - we all agree to that (but I don't want camgears to correct the problem.) Something is obviously wrong with the install - this is what I want corrected.

Instead of (Picture is shown from cam gear side) it should possibly have been (drawing is shown from cam gear side). When one turn the dissy towards the firewall (which would also be the IN side) - one advances the ignition. We'll have to agree on that

 

I suspect it has something to do with the cams. Swap your old intake cam in and see if it makes a difference.

 

intake cam timing is related to ignition timing check this thread out:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=976122

your non-adjustable cams can still be adjusted by their relation to teeth on the belt, so it would be alot easier if you had adjustables

 

If you have it running at 16 +/- 2 BTDC it doesn't matter where the distributor is in relation to the center of the adjustment range .

The car is running fine, stop worrying about it.

 

StyleTEG: I disagree. With one tooth off - while not critical, it means everything isn't aligned properly, I might possibly not get out of the motor what I want/can.

But anyhow I'll be opening it up to check its condition in the forthcoming weeks so I guess things will be fixed very soon :D

Thanks for the interest, guys!

 

Your not one tooth off, trust me.

I installed my cam gears one tooth off the first time around and the car ran so bad I thought I bent a valve. I could barely get going from a start. One tooth off is around 11 degrees, you would know.

If the only problem is that your at the end of the adjustment range, and the car drives fine, forget about it.