What can I expect to see, as far as setup is concerned, running on concrete, as opposed to asphalt? I have an event coming up on concrete, and I have no experience on that type surface... Any help/suggestions are appreciated. TIA.

- Ryan

 

Grip is greatly improved over asphalt, just keep that in mind.... I just ran on concrete for the first time last Sunday. Didn't set the car up any differently, but I found that I could dive into corners harder, and I could take more speed through the turns.

 

Assuming this is with autox in mind...

More grip and more understeer. A lot more understeer. I personally have had a tough time getting my car to rotate well on grippy concrete. But like asphalt, all concrete is not created equal. Generally it has more grip though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EtherGhost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Grip is greatly improved over asphalt, just keep that in mind.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Not always true. We have some crappy concrete in my area.

But what fsp31 says is true... my car pushes more on good concrete than asphalt.

 

Duly noted. Car rotates 'really' well on asphalt, may keep the settings the same, may adjust just a tick. I'll know more after my 1st run.

 

My car, when it was set up relatively crappily (Tokicos and Pro-kit) didn't care what surface it was on, it always behaved the same. I attribute this to the progressive springs. There was probably more grip on concrete but balance was the same.

Now, with (what I think is at least) a pretty darn good suspension setup I have to dial in a lot more oversteer on concrete than I do on asphalt.

 

like others have said, more grip and more understeer. if your car lifts an inside rear on asphault, enjoy plowing _everywhere_ on concrete. also, street tires will need a bit more air, and a bit more camber on concrete. i usually bump pressures 2lbs. if i had time to do more testing on concrete i would probably try to find how much additional camber i need. since i don't i end up using a bit more camber then ideal for asphault and it seems to work ok.

nate

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fsp31 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">more understeer. A lot more understeer. I personally have had a tough time getting my car to rotate well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What he said. Did I mention I had problems with excessive understeer on concrete?

 

Seems like understeer is the consensus. Nate mentioned something about adding 2lb. Is this to both front and rear, or front only? This is on an '89 Integra, if that helps. The rear sway is non-adjustable, as are the rear Konis (need to remove to adjust). I can adjust the front Konis, and tire pressures 'til the cows come home. I'm currently running 43f/29r on Azenis, and it rotates like a top. Don't even need throttle lift to get it to rotate most of the time. Perhaps a bump to 45 in the front, leave the rears at 29, will suffice.

My car has several disadvantages, namely the size of the contact patch. 195 Azeni on a 14x5.5 versus a 205 on a 15x7. I would invest in a 15in. wheel for next season, but I'm making the move to DSP instead.

 

Expect tons of grip....like real tons....noone can prepare you for this feeling...when you try , you will know.

And yes, certain cars will not rotate easy so tire stagger can be useful or as mentioned earlier...more air in the rear.

 

Wouldn't I want less air in the rear to get it to rotate? Or more in front?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STSDA3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wouldn't I want less air in the rear to get it to rotate? Or more in front?</TD></TR></TABLE>

There's an optimal pressure for a tire under certain conditions. More or less pressure will result in less grip.