Well My friend and I finally got around to installing his ignition in his 5th gen prelude. since he doesnt have as much usable space in his engine bay like me (h22 civic ) we decided we would mount it on top of the intake manifold. the easiest way to secure it to the mani is by utilizing the 2 throttle cable bolts on the front.

I went to Loew's and picked up some 22Ga steel sheet metal. I took the ignition box and layed it on the plate and outlined the shape of the box:


We used a jig saw with a sheet metal blade to make the cuts:


After cutting it out, you have to bend the portion of the bracket that is going to be bolted to the manifold and notch away the excess that would otherwise hit the throttle cable. when your done you should have something like this:


once thats done, you need to test fit everything to make sure it all lines up and then drill the mounting holes. after that you can bolt the ignition fo the bracket:


now you can go ahwad and bold the bracket to the manifold. as you can see, in a 5th gen it JUST fits there and seems to be very secure:




and a night shot

 

Pretty nifty but what happens when the motor torques or flexes? I'd like to see how well it holds up over time... please keep us informed.

 

as far as the motor flexing, he has es motor mount inserts so there shouldn't be a problem. we will keep everyone updated but as of right now, it is working perfect.

 

I also plan on putting a strip of foam between the unit and the firewall just in case...but like pete said, I have ES inserts, so flexing is really at a minimum. I just drove it about 30 miles to work and it seems to be holding up ok.


Modified by TonyStarkz at 10:39 AM 8/3/2004

 

Jeez, you guys go though a lot of trouble for looks. For those of us who don't want to put it in a high heat place (on top of the IM is about as hot as you can get if you're not moving) the best place for the ignition box is directly under the battery box. Crawl under the car and look below the battery and you'll see the perfect place for an ignition. It's much less heat, better fitment, don't have to worry about engine vibration or rock, and overall just better.

edit:
Do I see that right? Your coil is zip tied on your intake tube? Man, the install is really ghetto fabulous. You could of at least mounted it on the front side of the passanger wheel well where it wouldn't be a load bearing item on a tube not meant to take any weight, esp when it rocks. And knowing that the short ram DAC usually doesn't have any structural help and it's only connected to the TB...

 

yea... two words. WIRE LOOM

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TimeRacer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Jeez, you guys go though a lot of trouble for looks. For those of us who don't want to put it in a high heat place (on top of the IM is about as hot as you can get if you're not moving) the best place for the ignition box is directly under the battery box. Crawl under the car and look below the battery and you'll see the perfect place for an ignition. It's much less heat, better fitment, don't have to worry about engine vibration or rock, and overall just better.

edit:
Do I see that right? Your coil is zip tied on your intake tube? Man, the install is really ghetto fabulous. You could of at least mounted it on the front side of the passanger wheel well where it wouldn't be a load bearing item on a tube not meant to take any weight, esp when it rocks. And knowing that the short ram DAC usually doesn't have any structural help and it's only connected to the TB... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow, I didn't know of any other place to mount it. I'm guessing that would have been better. The main reason I thought there would be best is because when i'm at the track, I'm going to want to play around w/ my 2-step setting and I needed some place with easy access. The coil is really sitting on something and just zip tied to the intake to keep it from moving around. Do you see any potential problems w/ my setup? I really appreciate your thoughts!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TimeRacer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Jeez, you guys go though a lot of trouble for looks. For those of us who don't want to put it in a high heat place (on top of the IM is about as hot as you can get if you're not moving) the best place for the ignition box is directly under the battery box. Crawl under the car and look below the battery and you'll see the perfect place for an ignition. It's much less heat, better fitment, don't have to worry about engine vibration or rock, and overall just better.

edit:
Do I see that right? Your coil is zip tied on your intake tube? Man, the install is really ghetto fabulous. You could of at least mounted it on the front side of the passanger wheel well where it wouldn't be a load bearing item on a tube not meant to take any weight, esp when it rocks. And knowing that the short ram DAC usually doesn't have any structural help and it's only connected to the TB... </TD></TR></TABLE>


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lildrgn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea... two words. WIRE LOOM</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why do you assume that this install was just for looks? if it was just for looks, Would the coil be ziptied? would the wires not be loomed? As for the comment about installing it under the battery? Hmm, while that sounds like a great place, ill have to pass. Im not going under his car every time he needs to adjust something on it. espicially since this car gets tracked and will have nitrous control and has a 2step.

LOL @ the ghettofab comment. for 1 thing, who cares if its ziptied to the intake. it isnt going anywhere. and i just ran out of time to fab up a bracket for it because it was already 2am and i had work. and like i said earlier. this is NOT a show car, but thanks for assuming

ill post more pictures when i fab up the coil bracket

 

Um, it looks good to me. That area does NOT get as hot as TimeRacer is making it out to be; I know someone that's had an MSD box mounted on the firewall behind the IM for over 3 years, and it's still working great. It's NOT the hottest place, either; obviously you've never put your hand near the header after driving, eh TimeRacer?

And I would never put my ignition box under the battery tray, if it's where I'm thinking about. It's in direct shot of the wheel well! Then again, my fender lining is gone.......maybe it wouldn't be too bad if you have your lining, but I would keep it in the engine bay nonetheless.

 

Looks ghetto fabulous...

But damn I heart ghetto!!!!

 

im not hating on it. I think its awesome, but working with wiring for 2 years, you tend to pay attention when wires look like crap.

Trying to look good or not, atleast make the thing organized.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lildrgn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im not hating on it. I think its awesome, but working with wiring for 2 years, you tend to pay attention when wires look like crap.

Trying to look good or not, atleast make the thing organized. </TD></TR></TABLE>

It is getting wire loomed tonight...when we were finished we noticed thats the only thing we forgot to pick up.

 

Anyone who mounts anything (other than senders and heat wrap) directly on the header deserves what they get. But when you're sitting in traffic there is no other hot spot than the top of the engine bay. Know where all the heat goes from the header? To the highest point in the engine bay, which is right above the IM. Which is my reasoning for not putting it there. If you've ever touched your IM or even a STB when putzing around the city you'll realize that it's around 120-180F esp w/o a Hondata gasket installed, and wire loom is probably a better idea as well.

It's not that I'm hating the setup, as the fabrication does look nice. I just don't like the zip tied to the intake tube. The only connection point the DAC has is the throttle body, and I can tell you with approximately a pound or so (looks like more than that though... the MSD units are smaller than the Holly (?) unit that he's using) of weight on the intake tube won't be a good thing. Not to mention it's going to scratch that pretty finish on the DAC as well when it could just as easily just mount somewhere else w/o the worries of adding weight to a non load bearing item. It would be the same idea of hooking say a catch can on a radiator line, just doesn't need to happen.

Again, take a look from under the front of the car and look up at the battery box. Are you going to be messing around with the soft touch settings THAT much? You can easily pull it out to an easier access place once, tune it, and put it back. I'm not sure... Personally I don't like putting anything electronic in a high vibration / high heat environment if I can help it. Even the HV MSD Blaster Coils don't go on the engine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TimeRacer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone who mounts anything (other than senders and heat wrap) directly on the header deserves what they get. But when you're sitting in traffic there is no other hot spot than the top of the engine bay. Know where all the heat goes from the header? To the highest point in the engine bay, which is right above the IM. Which is my reasoning for not putting it there. If you've ever touched your IM or even a STB when putzing around the city you'll realize that it's around 120-180F esp w/o a Hondata gasket installed, and wire loom is probably a better idea as well.

It's not that I'm hating the setup, as the fabrication does look nice. I just don't like the zip tied to the intake tube. The only connection point the DAC has is the throttle body, and I can tell you with approximately a pound or so (looks like more than that though... the MSD units are smaller than the Holly (?) unit that he's using) of weight on the intake tube won't be a good thing. Not to mention it's going to scratch that pretty finish on the DAC as well when it could just as easily just mount somewhere else w/o the worries of adding weight to a non load bearing item. It would be the same idea of hooking say a catch can on a radiator line, just doesn't need to happen.

Again, take a look from under the front of the car and look up at the battery box. Are you going to be messing around with the soft touch settings THAT much? You can easily pull it out to an easier access place once, tune it, and put it back. I'm not sure... Personally I don't like putting anything electronic in a high vibration / high heat environment if I can help it. Even the HV MSD Blaster Coils don't go on the engine. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Like i already said, this wasnt a "how to mount your aftermarket external coil" thread, this was a "how to mount your ignition box" so i dont see why you keep bringing it up. The bracket for the coil had not been fabbed yet because we ran out of time (as you can see i posted this at 3am). so far though the coil is holding up just fine.

And as for the comment on under the battery. Like i said earlier, having to go under there more than once is a hassle. and as far as adjusting the settings, i believe for the amount of time he will be toying with it, having it in an accessible place works better.

As the summer months go on, Ill be sure to let you know how its doing in the "hottest place in the engine bay"

 

Not only is TimeRacer right about introducing high temperatures to the ignition, but you better make sure there is a PERFECT seal from the firewall to your hood.

Water + Ignitions = Bad

 

well i dont see how moutning it under the battery is any better as far as keeping it dry is concerned. if anything i would assume that mounting it where he suggested would introduce more debris and water than where it is right now


thats for the constructive crticism though

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TonyStarkz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you see any potential problems w/ my setup? I really appreciate your thoughts! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Krnbk2: Need to read the owners posts too. I stated that the coil isn't in a very good place so please quit taking offense to any negative comments on your work! All I'm saying is relocate that coil, that's all. If you're going to, good.

Again, both of you need to go back and look at the battery box location.



edit: Just FYI that's 6 1/2 years of dirt there since I know that'll come up. And most of that was from my slowly leaking catch can above that area. Hense the black look instead of the white dried up water look.

It's a horrid picture w/ me just holding the camera under the car and guessing and shooting but it gets the job done. Directly under this area is the splash guard, and there's no way in hell that water from the tires will get there unless you're trying to forge a small lake. As the wheel well blocks anything going toward that direction. You can see the lower cross member and it's a good 2 feet up there, just mount it upside down under the battery box if you're worried about water, the supporting braket serves as a baffle against any water. If you don't like the location still, and since you have the DAC instead of the OEM intake just mount it to the plastic of the battery box or get a slightly smaller battery (S2000 battery, or something similar) and mount it inside the tray. Same location as the one PrecisionH23 posted except just use the smaller battery in conjunction with the ignition.

But again, if you feel like you have to fool with the ignition all the time (I have no idea why you would after you tune it) then feel free to keep it in it's current location. Vibrations + heat + electronics = broken capacitors, melted circuitry... At least in my experience I want to keep my electronics as cool, dry, and in the lowest vibration areas as possible to preserve their life. But if you insist upon having on top of the IM then that's fine, just keep in mind that it is a high vibration, high heat area.


Modified by TimeRacer at 6:37 PM 8/3/2004

 

This guy had a good idea as to mounting his ignition.

 

^^^ damn that is a tight a$$ ride... i mean it does not even need a battery

 

this looks good too

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TimeRacer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Krnbk2: Need to read the owners posts too. I stated that the coil isn't in a very good place so please quit taking offense to any negative comments on your work! All I'm saying is relocate that coil, that's all. If you're going to, good.

Again, both of you need to go back and look at the battery box location.



edit: Just FYI that's 6 1/2 years of dirt there since I know that'll come up. And most of that was from my slowly leaking catch can above that area. Hense the black look instead of the white dried up water look.

It's a horrid picture w/ me just holding the camera under the car and guessing and shooting but it gets the job done. Directly under this area is the splash guard, and there's no way in hell that water from the tires will get there unless you're trying to forge a small lake. As the wheel well blocks anything going toward that direction. You can see the lower cross member and it's a good 2 feet up there, just mount it upside down under the battery box if you're worried about water, the supporting braket serves as a baffle against any water. If you don't like the location still, and since you have the DAC instead of the OEM intake just mount it to the plastic of the battery box or get a slightly smaller battery (S2000 battery, or something similar) and mount it inside the tray. Same location as the one PrecisionH23 posted except just use the smaller battery in conjunction with the ignition.

But again, if you feel like you have to fool with the ignition all the time (I have no idea why you would after you tune it) then feel free to keep it in it's current location. Vibrations + heat + electronics = broken capacitors, melted circuitry... At least in my experience I want to keep my electronics as cool, dry, and in the lowest vibration areas as possible to preserve their life. But if you insist upon having on top of the IM then that's fine, just keep in mind that it is a high vibration, high heat area.


Modified by TimeRacer at 6:37 PM 8/3/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol bro relax, i use the and for a reason.

the way you described under the battery it sounded like if it was so easy to get your hand under there than it seemed reasonable to think that water and debris might be able to find there was as well. when tony reads this / see'sl the pic im sure he wil take a look at the suggested place. Like i said earlier, i have an h22 in a civic not a lude so im on top of all the hiding spots like you guys . only reason i posted this was because i took the pictures and have the webspace.

thanks for the pic's timeracer

and as always, Precision your engine bay is b - e - a - utiful

 

honestly I got the idea from another luder who has had his unit in the same location for a year or 2 now with no problems. Thanks for all the info guys and I will definately go check out those spots when i get the chance.

 

well i emailed mallory about the mouting position and they said its perfectly fine

Mr. Gasket Helpdesk:
Question: Brand: Mallory
Hi, I recently installed my Mallory Ignition. I used a bracket which I made to mount it on top of my intake manifold. I was wondering if the heat, vibration, or any other problems would affect the ignition box mounted in this place. Here are links to the pics of the mounting. I appreciate your criticism. http://home.comcast.net/~krnbk2/ign3.jpg http://home.comcast.net/~krnbk2/ign4.jpg http://home.comcast.net/~krnbk2/ign5.jpg http://home.comcast.net/~krnbk2/ign6.jpg http://home.comcast.net/~krnbk2/ign7.jpg Thanks for your time Anthony Thompson
Vehicle/Engine Specifications:
Make:
Honda Model:
Prelude Year:
1997
Engine Size:
2.2L Transmission Type:
5-spd
Modifications: DC Intake DC Header Greddy PE Exhaust Mallory 685 Mallory Promaster Coil Crower Stg. 2 Cams AEM Cam Gears AEM Pullies ES Motor Mount Inserts
Discussion Topics: ignition

Solution:
Could not open your pictures but lots of guys make a mounting plate and bolt it to the back of the head. As long as the p-late is getting a good ground so the box is getting a ground, all should be fine.

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i have the exact same ignition as you.

we mounted mine upside down (for easier access to buttons) on the side of the battery.

22 gauge steel
rivets
Rubber hose
bolts / nuts

take out the battery box and cut the steel to fit on the open side of the battery box.
drill appropriate holes and rivet metal to box (we used 6 rivets)
drill holes for ignition to mount on steel.
cut 4 - 1/4" pieces of rubber hose. we used those as shock mounts for the ignition as well as it gives the needed room for the battery tie down to bolt back in place.

put it all back together. place the rubber hose pieces around the bolts attaching the ignition to the sheet metal.


as far as the coil goes. if you work it correctly you can get the coil to fit on the original spot. its a tight fit, but it can be done. mine is there.

wish i had a pic of it for you but it must be at home.

 

thats an awesome intall and nice and clean,

but im going to gie you some advice, one major thing that kills electronics is heat, and the second is abuse(vibration)

on top of the intake mani is not the coolest place but won't see to high of temps, but the vibrations are incredable, you could be introducing noise ontop of the other signals because of the vibrations..

all in all its nice, but i would move it in my opinion