probably gonna start road racing my lil Integra...kinda new at all this so bare with me...

Looking for opinions on the best sway's available on the market...here are some of my choices

Skunk2
Tanabe
Hotchkis

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PRojectSi2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">probably gonna start road racing my lil Integra...kinda new at all this so bare with me...

Looking for opinions on the best sway's available on the market...here are some of my choices

Skunk2
Tanabe
Hotchkis</TD></TR></TABLE>

What Tracks, What Group, and Race series?

 

also, what spring rates and what type of shocks? tire size and type?

 

im gonna go out to Sebring and try it out sometime this month...i think there's an event

 

So...not road racing then. How about, stick with stock until after your first time on a road course?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Xian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also, what spring rates and what type of shocks? tire size and type?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Im using the Tanabe PRO-SS Coilovers right now 6.0kg/mm in the front 4.0kg/mm in the rear.

Ill probably be using the stock GSR wheels and throw a set of Toyo RA-1 205/55/15 on there

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamSlowdotOrg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So...not road racing then. How about, stick with stock until after your first time on a road course? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well i like to do all my cars up right the first time around....so i dont have to keep goin back to it and redoing it over and over again....this is just a weekend hobby for me.....might as well just spend the money the first time around

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PRojectSi2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">might as well just spend the money the first time around</TD></TR></TABLE>

There isnt a "right" setup, especially for just schools and open lapping.

Spending the money on learning how to drive better will yeild much better results than putting money into the car.

 

So, go out to the track with what you are used to right now. You're going to get on the track and as soon as you start nutting up and exploring the limits of grip you won't want to be surprised by what the car does, especially at Sebring where you'll already be dealing with bumps and walls.

Doing it right the first time means first knowing what to do right. Drive, then make changes, not the other way around [/mantra]

 

well i dont wanna go out there and have the car all over the place and handle like sh$!....

I rather go out there prepped and ready than go out there test it, bring it back and then add stuff to it....

I dont mind spending the loot, just want the right stuff that's why im asking...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PRojectSi2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i dont wanna go out there and have the car all over the place and handle like sh$!....

just want the right stuff that's why im asking...</TD></TR></TABLE>

With no experience you wont be able to tell the difference.

Honestly I dont think a novice would be able to handle the "Right" setup anyways, they'd spend half their time in the weeds.

 

Take good advice and don't touch anything until after. Nobody cares that you're ready to spend money, we're talking about not making mistakes that could lead to you ending your car's and possibly your life. The car won't handle like ****, it'll be faster than you are for your first time out on a racetrack.

To get prepped and ready to go for a track dayL

1) Take one car with good wheel bearings, tie rods, fluids and other general health items attended to

2) Add tires that won't chunk/die in the heat.

3) Add brake pads with same capability, along with fresh rotors.

4) Register for the next track day

5) Repeat.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PRojectSi2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Im using the Tanabe PRO-SS Coilovers right now 6.0kg/mm in the front 4.0kg/mm in the rear.

Ill probably be using the stock GSR wheels and throw a set of Toyo RA-1 205/55/15 on there</TD></TR></TABLE>
Lets see... so that'd be around 350F and 225R or did I convert wrong? Anyway, I'd suggest upping your rates front and rear with a higher rear-end bias. Stock front sway and perhaps a larger rear bar from either a hype R or from Progress. That being said, I'd really recomend driving the car "as is" until you figure out what YOU want to change on the car.

You may want to have the RA-1's shaved as Sebring is super hot in the summertime. Also make sure that your cooling system is working well.

Christian, who thinks driver upgrades are more important than car upgrades...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Xian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Christian, who thinks driver upgrades are more important than car upgrades...</TD></TR></TABLE>

The more events I do the more I feel I dont know.

RJ - still getting faster... slowly...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PRojectSi2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well i like to do all my cars up right the first time around....so i dont have to keep goin back to it and redoing it over and over again....this is just a weekend hobby for me.....might as well just spend the money the first time around</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you want to do the "right" thing for your first track day, spend a little time to make sure your brakes are up to snuff. Track driving in general is very hard on your brakes, and of all the tracks I've been to, Sebring has been the hardest.

At a BARE MINIMUM, you should flush the brake fluid with brand new, never been opened fluid no more than 30 days before hitting the track. You should also make sure you have plenty of brake pad material -- 1/4" or less will not be enough.

If you want to go one step better, use a good quality brake fluid like ATE blue/gold or Motul 600 and get some good quality street/track pads like Cobalt GT-Sports (and I'll let the Hawk and Carbotech fans list their favorites).

Out of curiosity, what club are you going to Sebring with?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The more events I do the more I feel I dont know.

RJ - still getting faster... slowly...</TD></TR></TABLE>
hmmm....

Christian, who is suddenly wondering if RJ and Scott (RR98ITR) are really the same person well, maybe not...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Xian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Christian, who is suddenly wondering if RJ and Scott (RR98ITR) are really the same person well, maybe not...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Scott likes to work on his car too much.

I just leave it alone and drive the damn thing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

drive the damn thing </TD></TR></TABLE>Do what now?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Agent Smith &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you want to do the "right" thing for your first track day, spend a little time to make sure your brakes are up to snuff. Track driving in general is very hard on your brakes, and of all the tracks I've been to, Sebring has been the hardest.

At a BARE MINIMUM, you should flush the brake fluid with brand new, never been opened fluid no more than 30 days before hitting the track. You should also make sure you have plenty of brake pad material -- 1/4" or less will not be enough.

If you want to go one step better, use a good quality brake fluid like ATE blue/gold or Motul 600 and get some good quality street/track pads like Cobalt GT-Sports (and I'll let the Hawk and Carbotech fans list their favorites).

Out of curiosity, what club are you going to Sebring with?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not sure...at first my friend has an 04 Bullitt and he was gonna go out there...I think it maybe a CHIN Motorsports event

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The more events I do the more I feel I dont know.</TD></TR></TABLE>

werd.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PRojectSi2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Not sure...at first my friend has an 04 Bullitt and he was gonna go out there...I think it maybe a CHIN Motorsports event</TD></TR></TABLE>
Probably is Chin... they run Sebring pretty regularly. As others have said, upgrade your brakes and have a good time. Wei-shin Chin runs a good event with plenty of seat time... not a whole lot of real instruction other than "here's the line" though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PRojectSi2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not sure...at first my friend has an 04 Bullitt and he was gonna go out there...I think it maybe a CHIN Motorsports event</TD></TR></TABLE>

Chin Motorsports is a good group. They're a little more expensive than NASA, but you get much more track time, and the instruction is just as good.

If you want to not have to worry about the car, then do like TeamSlow said and make sure it's in good mechanical shape. You're really better off with a totally stock car when you're first getting started, because you can be pretty sure that it will be reliable and handle predictably. Once you start messing with the car, both those assumptions can go out the window.

Since you've done some suspension work, there are a couple other things you might want to look at to ensure that the car is safe and predictable. First off, have you had an alignment since you worked on the suspension? If not, go get one. Stock specs are fine to start with. Also, how much did you lower the car? If you lowered by more than about an inch, you could have bottoming problems with your spring rates. In that case, you should raise it back up a little an then get the alignment done.

Seriously, though, the car is really not that important when you're first starting out (other than being safe and reliable). I was faster in my stock LS than I was in my Type R, and that's almost entirely due to experience.

If you want to make the most of your first track day, then make sure the car is going to be safe and reliable, relax, leave your ego at home, listen to your instructor, and have fun.



Modified by Agent Smith at 12:34 PM 8/2/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PRojectSi2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well i like to do all my cars up right the first time around....so i dont have to keep goin back to it and redoing it over and over again....this is just a weekend hobby for me.....might as well just spend the money the first time around</TD></TR></TABLE>

Doing it up right doesn't mean throwing money @it. Testing and trying is the only thing that works.

Drive it how it is.. what if your car handles great, and you don't even know it.

 

It takes a bit to get the car to rotate. I found that you need at leat 400lbs in the rear and a 22mm sway to be able to own your handling.

Comptech is in my book.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamSlowdotOrg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Drive, then make changes, not the other way around [/mantra]</TD></TR></TABLE>


You don't want to drive a car that you're not used to. You want to be comfortable. Push your car then decide what you think needs to feel better or different. Then make changes to your setup.