My car will be getting a 1.5-2" drop soon through omnipower coilovers and I will be getting an alignment. I have energy suspension bushings all over (and the bruises up and down my arms to prove it), a progress camber kit, and 205/50/15 azenis on 15x7 rotas.

I am doing mainly street driving and may do some autocross in the future, not sure yet. I have come up with a list of alignment settings that I think will be good, anyone with opinions chime in.

Front
Caster - +4 degrees plus/minus 1 degree (not adjustable)
Camber - -1.5 degrees
Toe - 0mm

Rear
Camber - -1.5 degrees
Toe - 0mm or 2mm out (my biggest concern)

 

up

 

leave toe @ 0 for street use
way to harsh on the wallet for tires

 

thanks thats what I wanted to know

 

what reading did you do that says zero front toe is good? toe out 1/16" total, (1/32 each side) if you dont want to be too aggressive. 1.5deg camber is fine. rear toe should be zero, or slightly toed in.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what reading did you do that says zero front toe is good? toe out 1/16" total, (1/32 each side) if you dont want to be too aggressive. 1.5deg camber is fine. rear toe should be zero, or slightly toed in. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I based a lot of my setup on Whiteline Australias Civic setups. They add caster when possible, run a little negative camber up front (-1.25 to -1.75), and set front toe at 0mm which is usually the stock setting. As for the rear, its around -1.5 camber and toe is 2mm to 4mm out. The focus of most Whiteline Honda setups seems to be the addition of caster. And while I am not too familiar with the effects of toe, I would guess just by the directions of the tires with 2-4mm of toe out in the rear, that would cause the rear to rotate better while the positive caster up front would increase front stability.

 

let me give you a hint on traction:
increasing the grip in the rear makes the car less able to rotate.

your assessment on wanting to turn the outer rear wheel out is counter productive.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.Saturn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...I am not too familiar with the effects of toe...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Point taken, but thats why I'm here, thanks Tyson.

 

bump for some more input

 

not specifically for crx's, more fwd cars in general. but i've been told a good starting point is as much castor as possible at the front with slight toe out and about 1.5 neg camber.

zero toe at the rear