I have a 2001 ITR w/ header, intake, and exhaust. I want to go 13.5 or better on the motor and do not know what to buy next. Some people have told me to go with Toda Spec C cams but I am not sure. Give me some advise people.

Thanks

 

first off...put your flame suit on..you about to get flamed..hopefully you dont..but this being your 1st post...

What I/H/E do you have? Those actually make a difference.
Is the car tuned? Has it been tuned since the I/H/E set up or are you on stock ecu with stock program still?

Toda Spec C cams are too big for stock compression. Can you use them? Sure you can, will you get full potential out of the cams? No you will not. You can go with the smaller Toda Spec B or even the JUN 3. But i would suggest the RM M22s. Again even with those cams you will not be using them to their fullest. May i also suggest BC cams as well.

Buy a new clutch lighter flywheel and some slicks.

And put the car on a diet.

 

I dont think It would be a problem to get into the high 13's on a N/A Type R.
There has been some members that have claimed mid to low 14's on a stock Type R. It seems if you had a high quality I/H/E combo it would be no problem, but the cost would. Maybe a Mugen Intake, Toda Header, Test Pipe and t1r exhuast, Paired up with some slicks or azenis and you should be close if you can drive.

 

ok you will never get 13's with I/H/E...

there's are like 3 ways for you to hit 13's or lower.

N/A.
cams/retainers/valve springs/ecu/tune/dyno.
+
pistons?

Turbo.
turbokit or whatever parts needed. + tuning/dyno. ( Most cash.)

Nos.
probably cheapest way to make your car in 13's.

 

So your saying that some of the members that have hit 14.2-3's stock would not be able to shave that amount off with I/H/E, testpipe and slicks? I could be wrong but I think with the right track condtions and driver it could be a fair bet.

 

hey i have cam gears(intake gear tuned), aem intake, aem fuel rail, edelbrock headers, and not tuned vafc with no exhaust and i know i am in the 13's, so it could happen with jus a few bolt ons and some tuning

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xmilanoredsix &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So your saying that some of the members that have hit 14.2-3's stock would not be able to shave that amount off with I/H/E, testpipe and slicks? I could be wrong but I think with the right track condtions and driver it could be a fair bet.</TD></TR></TABLE>

if everything was in favor of the run, you might tip it depending on how good of a driver you are but Once you get the car rolling its basically up to the car. Shifting and launching is at best, ALL the driver can do. It would be a bitch to pull a time of 13.XX seconds just once and not run consistantly. I don't know if IHE is good enough to give ample power to really hit 13's consistantly. IT depends on the IHE's and what type you have. Im sure that with some higher end stuff like SMSP, Hytech or whatever, power gains should be a lot higher.

JUN head package with the Type 3 cams plus the ECU with some mild tuning on a stock bottom end should break or get really close to 200whp which should suffice if you're targeting 13's. Put the car on a diet, and you should hit it just fine.

 

i will have a write up on my mild NA set up in 3 weeks with dyno and 1/4 mi slips...im hoping for mid to high 13's with it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98itR484 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Buy a new clutch lighter flywheel and some slicks.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is just a comment, but I was under the impression that a lighter flywheel made for greater difficulty in drag racing, something about it losing momentum and letting the engine rev down too far. I'm not sure if the overall benefit of less vehicle weight in general would outweigh (no pun intended) that problem, but just a thought.

 

I think that with I/H/E and some slicks you could hit around a 13.5(great driver required). I ran 14.0X the last time I went to the track. And that was just an I/E on stock clutch with 60K. There are a few peole on this board to hit 13's with not to much done, and I hope to be one of them soon . Good luck..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98ITR#0020 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think that with I/H/E and some slicks you could hit around a 13.5(great driver required). I ran 14.0X the last time I went to the track. And that was just an I/E on stock clutch with 60K. There are a few peole on this board to hit 13's with not to much done, and I hope to be one of them soon . Good luck..</TD></TR></TABLE>

+1 same with my car. with just i/e i had about 10 14.2 timeslips and a few 14.1's

and thats with a 2.4 60 ft it shouldnt take much at all

 

My 98 ITR with 70kmiles, I/H/E, clutch/flywheel and drag radials netted consistent 13.7's@ 100mph.

A good driver and stock motor with bolt-ons will hit 13's easy.

 

what are you running the 1/4 mile in with the set up you have now? whats your 60' time?

when i was still N/A i would run consistant 13.9x@99/100mph with a 2.2x 60' time my set up was:
dc sports 4-1 header(usdm)
test pipe
5 zigen fireball exhaust
unorthodox pully
skunk 2 cam gears

theres still some cheaper mods you can do to your car to get more power from it other than buying toda cams like lighter flywheel,cam gears,weight reduction,testpipe or high flow cat(if you care about trees and such) drag radials, dyno time for the cam gears etc. and the most important part is driveing it, you can have the most expensize and best parts overnighted from japan, but if you cant drive it then whats the use. good luck


Modified by DontBlink at 5:17 PM 8/1/2004


Modified by DontBlink at 5:18 PM 8/1/2004

 

turdblow

 

I did 13.7 with SMSP header, cat, catback, and a comptech icbox. Whole rear gutted with sparco bucket seats, CF hood, and no AC, on slicks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sscguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This is just a comment, but I was under the impression that a lighter flywheel made for greater difficulty in drag racing, something about it losing momentum and letting the engine rev down too far. I'm not sure if the overall benefit of less vehicle weight in general would outweigh (no pun intended) that problem, but just a thought.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I fully understand what you are saying, ive heard it before and have had my share of heated discussion regarding it..but im a firm believer that reduceing the weight of the rotating assembly is crucial.

 

13.99 sec @ sea level... probably a damn good driver + bolt on's, clutch & drag radials.

13.99 sec in Denver... probably need more than I/H/E, clutch & drag.

Black R's been trying for 13's in ATL for a while (~1,000 ft above sea level) and with his previous setup (toda B's, tuned ~190hp dyno) didn't break into 13's.

 

2001 ITR... with the following mods... AEM cold air, JDM header & 2.5" converter, timing advanced to 18, pwr steering belt removed, bfg drag radials on millenia rims, underdrive crank pulley... Full interior minus spare tire.....


13.80 @ 100.88 into a slight head wind on a warm night... in cold air it will go 13.6 @ 101 and change... so the answer to your question... a good running R with a few bolt ons will give you what you want.... the key though is learn how to drive the car!

 

13.5 7.5lbs of boost.

 

My friend with I/H and ATS 4.9 final drive with flywheel and clutch on a 98 CW ITR ran a 13.7 so I thnk a 13.5 is very easy to obtain.

 

i know of 13's being run in an ITR with open header and just the jdm 4-1

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RiCE On IcE 2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know of 13's being run in an ITR with open header and just the jdm 4-1</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes possible,depending on track conditions,driver and sea level.

 

I went 13,96@160km/h on Azenis 1,12 60ft. With my old euro ITR. I had DC 4-1 JDM, homemade exhaust, no cat, K/N filter... i could have gone down to 13,7... if i still had the car..with same mods better tyres BFG geforce

 

Jdm header, Cam gears, Aem cold air, mugen computer, fuel pressure, tanabe exhaust and good driver 13.8

 

Wrong place to be talking about Drag Racing. "The Type R isnt made for it" some say.

I say, you port the **** outta that head, bump that compression to about 12.1, and get Hondata insted of any hack you have. Good luck gee