koni yellows
hey guys,
sorry to post here but i figured this would be the place that i could get a fast answer quick. anyways heres my question. i just got some koni yellow 5 way adjustable for my crx and as im looking at the instal notes i see on one of the pages it shows the shaft of the koni yellow in a vice grip and it shows the guy turning it like 360 degrees then again and saying 720 degrees. what is this talking about? am i supposed to do it also? or is this something else that i just don't need to worry about? thanks to anyone who can help.
sorry to post here but i figured this would be the place that i could get a fast answer quick. anyways heres my question. i just got some koni yellow 5 way adjustable for my crx and as im looking at the instal notes i see on one of the pages it shows the shaft of the koni yellow in a vice grip and it shows the guy turning it like 360 degrees then again and saying 720 degrees. what is this talking about? am i supposed to do it also? or is this something else that i just don't need to worry about? thanks to anyone who can help.
its an 88 hf.
and yes it is the analog adjustment dial, but the person i bought them from was calling them 5 way adjustable, so i figured that was the proper terminology.
and yes it is the analog adjustment dial, but the person i bought them from was calling them 5 way adjustable, so i figured that was the proper terminology.
First off, they are not "5 way adjustable", that is Tokico. The Konis are infinately adjustable and can be put anywhere in the adjustment range from full minimum (turn the white plastic **** clockwise until it stops) to full maximum (turn the white plastic **** counterclockwise until it stops). Usually Hondas are about 1.75 to 2.0 total turns stop to stop and you can put them anywhere in that range and then just match the other shock the same adjustment.
Depending on what your uses and other upgrades to the car, for street use you will almost always find yourself in the lower one turn of the adjustment range when the shocks are pretty new. Higher than stock springs rates will typically find you in the 0.5 to 1.0 turn range from soft depending on your goals, roads, etc.
On the externally adjustable shocks, there is no need for a vise at all. Depending on which rear shock you got for the '88, you may have an externally adjustable (8041-1164 Sport) or an internally adjustable (8040-1078 Sport). The vise reference is for the internally (non-externally) adjustable shocks that one way you can immobilize the rod to make the adjustment is to put the veru tip of the rod in a vise but you need to be careful not to mar or damage the chrome rod or the threading. On the internally adjustable, the adjustment direction of turns is backwards from the externally adjustable ones so then counter clockwise is softer and clockwise is firmer.
Depending on what your uses and other upgrades to the car, for street use you will almost always find yourself in the lower one turn of the adjustment range when the shocks are pretty new. Higher than stock springs rates will typically find you in the 0.5 to 1.0 turn range from soft depending on your goals, roads, etc.
On the externally adjustable shocks, there is no need for a vise at all. Depending on which rear shock you got for the '88, you may have an externally adjustable (8041-1164 Sport) or an internally adjustable (8040-1078 Sport). The vise reference is for the internally (non-externally) adjustable shocks that one way you can immobilize the rod to make the adjustment is to put the veru tip of the rod in a vise but you need to be careful not to mar or damage the chrome rod or the threading. On the internally adjustable, the adjustment direction of turns is backwards from the externally adjustable ones so then counter clockwise is softer and clockwise is firmer.
If they have the external adjustment, the 360 followed by 720 is showing adjusting them through their full adjustment range. Did you get the **** with them too? It has the direction to rotate for soft/hard so it's easier to remember and not turn them the wrong way.
okay cool guys. now that you say tokico i can see where the confusion came in. and thanks for the clarification, both set of shocks (front and back) are externally adjustable, but when i saw the directions for using the vise i thought maybe it was a part of the installment to get the shocks ready, but thanks for the clarification.
as far as springs im running h&r race. and i noticed up front i have to use a spring compressor to get them on, but as for the rear i have plenty of room and the spring sits there and i can put the strut mount on with no problems, am i supposed to have this much travel for the spring? if i hit a rather large bump the spring wont come out of place and hang over the edge and possibly damage the suspension in some way will it? if i didn't say that clear enough let me know and ill try harder right now. just super tired today.
as far as springs im running h&r race. and i noticed up front i have to use a spring compressor to get them on, but as for the rear i have plenty of room and the spring sits there and i can put the strut mount on with no problems, am i supposed to have this much travel for the spring? if i hit a rather large bump the spring wont come out of place and hang over the edge and possibly damage the suspension in some way will it? if i didn't say that clear enough let me know and ill try harder right now. just super tired today.
You will be fine on the spring length unless you do a "Thelma and Louise" off a mountain top where the suspension has a great deal of time to extend and hang off the ground, but then you have bigger problems to deal with. This is very common with shorter, higher rate aftermarket springs.
With those low springs, it is key that you have plenty of bump ruber remaining when you do your installation or you can and probably will bottom the shocks internally and destroy them. if you cut the stock bump rubbers, leave at least 1/2 to 2/3 remaining in good condition if not more.
BTW, they are shocks on this car and not struts based on the suspension design. Lots of people don't know the difference and call them wrong but it doesn't hurt to use the right words if you know them.
With those low springs, it is key that you have plenty of bump ruber remaining when you do your installation or you can and probably will bottom the shocks internally and destroy them. if you cut the stock bump rubbers, leave at least 1/2 to 2/3 remaining in good condition if not more.
BTW, they are shocks on this car and not struts based on the suspension design. Lots of people don't know the difference and call them wrong but it doesn't hurt to use the right words if you know them.
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