master cylinder.

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Old Jul 30, 2004 | 03:56 PM
  #1  
cr-x-91's Avatar
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From: whittier, ca, usa
Default master cylinder.

whats up.im new.i post mostly on automotive forums.my question is if you can use a prelude master cylinder,and how effective this mod would be compared to my stock crx dx ****.if you know what year prelude i would need.thanx in advance.
oh its a 91 if that matters.
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Old Jul 30, 2004 | 04:17 PM
  #2  
krazie1's Avatar
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From: San Fernando, Kali, usa
Default Re: master cylinder. (cr-x-91)

never heard of that change over

only the ex m/c and booster from us sedans

or the 90-93 integra m/c is a great commonly know change over in 88-91 civics


or u can be different like some of us
ITR m/c and booster

now that is hard to find but the same in the process to install

if u are going to upgrade make sure u change out the prop valve also

so u won't send so much power to the front and not enough to the rear

causing lock up in our non abs cars
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Old Jul 30, 2004 | 04:21 PM
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From: Hamilton, ON, Canada
Default Re: master cylinder. (krazie1)

90-91 civic ex, 90-93 non-abs integra and 88-91 preludes all have the same m/c. they are all 15/16"
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Old Jul 30, 2004 | 04:33 PM
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crexer's Avatar
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Default Re: master cylinder. (mrchaos)

Also the 86-89 accord lxi one works too. Ive always wondered if just a MC upgrade will help you without the brake booster.....anybody know?
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Old Jul 30, 2004 | 04:47 PM
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4drEF's Avatar
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From: Granada Hills, Ca, USA
Default Re: master cylinder. (cr-x-91)

The master cylinder just changes the amount of fluid that flows in a set distance that you press the pedal down.

Lets say you have to press the brake pedal down 4 inches to get the wheels to lock up from 40 mph.

With a larger master cylinder you wouldn't have to press the pedal down as far to get the wheels to lock up.

This reducion of pedal travel reduces your ability to take your braking up to the point of locking the wheels up.


If you take the example to the extreme it's a little more understandable.
Lets say you get a BIG master cylinder. You only have to press the pedal down 1/2 an inch and your wheels are locked up. That makes your brakes pretty much ON or OFF.
Go back to the stock system where you press down 4 inches. That's more like a dimmer switch rather than ON and OFF. It gives you room to bring the car to your desired rate of braking that you need at that moment.

With the proper master cylinder for your braking system and a little bit of practice you can take the brakes right up to the point before locking the wheels up. The tires make a sound like frying bacon and you stop MUCH faster than a car skidding to a halt.

If you are comfortable with control you have with the current amount of pedal travel you have then there is no reason to change it out. It won't magically make your car stop better or any faster. Stickier tires is what you would want for that... get some that are soft compound and they stick more before skidding.
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