Are there any kits availible for this or for some reason is this just a dumb idea ?

~BB~

 

Not a dumb idea if your plans call for it...

I don't know of any kits but H23 bottom end components (or entire complete block) can be used for an increase in displacement. It does throw the rod/ratio away from the "optimal" 1.75 (yes, I realize H22 r/s isn't at 1.75)

Adi

 

I think crower makes one but for the price of that you could
build yourself a better stroker motor if you went customly

 

Do you have any more info on the Crower stroker kit? I've visted their website and it wasn't listed there, only B-series kits.

edit: still not listed, http://crower.com/cat/import/honda/stroker.shtml

Adi

 

f23 crank and rods work if you have 98+ h block. brings it up to roughly 2.4

 

Crower kit gives you a new billet crank and rods, I believe. It costs like 2000-4000 dollars, forgot the exact figure...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastludeh22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">f23 crank and rods work if you have 98+ h block. brings it up to roughly 2.4</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hmm really? I have my '98 stock motor sitting in my gerage that I was thinking of rebuilding myself. do you have any ideas what else I would need to do to make the F23 crank and rods fit? any idea what the CR would be? still around 10:1?
and, has anyone in this forum done it?

 

Noone's done the F23 crank thing yet, but I would loooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooove to do it, if I had the time and cash!

But yes, for an H22a(1) you can use the H23's bottom end and it will be fine. Search for "H23 VTEC"

 

We have it in stock if you need it.

Bob

 

The Skunk2 race h22a was running the F23a 97mm crank

I wouldn't recommend it unless you know what you're doing...

 

That's cool

Well I was just curious cause always been an idea floating around in the air between me and some friends. If I can get the money right. Then I'll consider it then....

~BB~

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by satan_srv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The Skunk2 race h22a was running the F23a 97mm crank

I wouldn't recommend it unless you know what you're doing...</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha, ok... I wont then

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by satan_srv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldn't recommend it unless you know what you're doing...</TD></TR></TABLE>

that goes w/any build.

what crank a rods you use wont make a difference if you dont know what your doing...or if like this one post i read:

"its making all this rattling noise. i just rebuilt this damn thing. i dont know what the noise is, but i've got all these half circle metal things sitting in a box. what are those for?"

 

So true

~BB~

 

You can buy Crower billet cranks before the crower name gets stamped on them and before the huge mark up, just go direct to the source... Moldex Crankshafts

1700 and up, 6 week turnaround time

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastludeh22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

that goes w/any build.

what crank a rods you use wont make a difference if you dont know what your doing...or if like this one post i read:

"its making all this rattling noise. i just rebuilt this damn thing. i dont know what the noise is, but i've got all these half circle metal things sitting in a box. what are those for?" </TD></TR></TABLE>

hmm little half circle things??? lmao thats too funny.

I really hope you are kidding that someone posted that.

I figured he was refering to extra fab. work. not basic motor knowledge... I really hope no one with out a clue would even try working on their own car... let alone build a motor. haha.

I figure Ill just rebuild this one stock... just incase I get sent to the damn state ref again

but damn... the thought of a stroked H22 just makes me smile!

 

lol

~BB~

 

for sure.

 

what do you mean "noone has done it?"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what do you mean "noone has done it?"</TD></TR></TABLE>

ARI sells the kits with F23 cranks, not to mentions guys in CA have been running those cranks for years... I can think of atleast 1 guy in my neiborhood alone running that crank...

So yeah, Id have to agree with Scott on this one...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what do you mean "noone has done it?"</TD></TR></TABLE>


Modified by Rick Solis at 10:39 AM 8/2/2004

 

yeahm and scott did it as well, hence his comment

 

how do they deal with that bad r/s of 1.45. Is there anyway to bring that number up, atleast a little.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what do you mean "noone has done it?"</TD></TR></TABLE>
^
It is my current project, but I am doing it a little different and I won't get into it here.

Also something to think about,
(stroke + rod length = total length of reciprocating assembly not including piston compression height)
H22 45.35mm + 143mm = 188.35mm
F23 48.50mm + 141mm = 189.50mm

189.5 - 188.35 = 1.15mm or .045"

The difference is that the F23 crank and pistons will be 1.15 mm taller. So if you swap out the H22 crank/rods for the F23 crank/rods you will have pistons sticking out of the normal H22 deck an additional .045" which is similar to having the block decked approximately that much, not to mention the extra displacement. IOW you will have pretty high compression with stock USDM h22 pistons but you will also have a higher chance of piston/valve contact as well as piston/head contact due to rod stretch at high RPM. Still sounds like a fun project though...and for the price of an F23 longblock you can go through a lot of those for the price of a Crower stroker

Pirate

 

Noone said you have to use stock pistons either...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

(stroke + rod length = total length of reciprocating assembly not including piston compression height)
H22 45.35mm + 143mm = 188.35mm
F23 48.50mm + 141mm = 189.50mm

189.5 - 188.35 = 1.15mm or .045"

</TD></TR></TABLE>

The H23 is the same as the F23 47.5mm + 142mm = 189.50mm.

So it would be the same from the F23 and H23?